Carbs? Or Everything Else?

I took my XJ550 (26Kmi) out on the road for the first time in a few months. It's been parking lot-ridden, but nothing out of 1st gear. Twice during my bike-truncated ride, the engine quite. Once, turning a slightly uphill corner in steady 1st, the second time in 2nd on my way down a small slope. Both times I had the throttle at a constant, and both times I had a difficult time getting the bike to start again. I added the choke to see if that would help, and it didn't seem to do much of anything.
Once I got it safely home- after only 15 or 20 minutes- it seemed to be running a bit rougher than it was before. The battery was just charged a few days ago, so I'd been hoping to get it out and get a charge.
I've checked fuel and the petcock. I have brand new spark plugs.
Any thoughts? I'm pretty positive the bike needs a gigantic cleaning, etc, but I'm not nearly mechanically inclined enough to do anything much without supervision/help, but I'd like to do what I can on my own. Can't say I fancy forking out $$$ for a tune-up if it's something I can take care of.

 

might be carbs, might be something else.
with the limited info I have it COULD also be compression related. Valve adjustment? but if it "ran when parked" as they say then carbs and batteries are about the only thing that really poop out if under cover.

ya got new plugs... pull 'em. how they look?

While you're at the auto store buying carb cleaning stuff pick up a cheap inline fuel filter from the lawnmower section.

 

That was my 1st thought.

Turning the corner both times?

Maybe some junk from the tank got into your carbs.... but that don't sound right either!?!

Read those plugs and tell us what they say.
Does the bike run now?
What makes the bike start after it dies?
that fuel filter is critical!!! if you don't have one.... well you will get what you deserve!

Get us MORE INFO

 

Did it act like you hit the killswitch? Backfire when trying to start? If so, I'm willing to be your TCI needs some cold solder joints cleaned up. Old Tech; should be a piece of cake for any electronics guy.

 

I'll pull the plugs today and check them.
I was cornering the first time (the engine sputtered a second and then stalled), the second was just a gentle slope, no turn (several-second sputter, stall). No backfiring with startup, it chugged like it was going to start, then maybe catch and then quit.
Thanks, guys!

 

Low fuel level?

 

also note which exhaust pipes warm up and which dont....be careful they are hot!!!

 

First thing - like Metal Bob said - check your fuel level. If you are just getting started with the bike it is a common mistake to put a little gas in it to get it to start but it's really not enough to keep it running when you turn a corner or go up a hill or down a hill.

 

I had minimal time to play with it today, but fuel level is good and the spark plugs look good as well.
I'm sure the carbs need to be cleaned anyway. Is that something that I can do if I follow the giant instruction thread on here? Again, I have almost no mechanical experience.

 

You say you "have almost no mechanical skill"
I say NO!!!
You better not build those carbs yourself!!!

 

If you have the proper tools, time and patience then YOU CAN rebuild these carbs. You will never get the experience if you don't try. The info on here will get you through the job just fine if you take your time and take no shortcuts. Take plenty of pics of the carbs as you take them apart so you can get them back together. Keep the parts from each carb separate from the parts from the other carbs too.

 

Carb CLEANING, where you leave the Carb Bodies on the Rack, and thoroughly disassemble them, cleaning each Part, Flushing Passages and Scrubbing and Polishing he Diaphragm Piston Bore; does not require great mechanical skills as much as it does requiring the ability to remember where everything goes and in what order.

Making the job more difficult are the complications that arise while attempting to do what should be a simple task; but becomes several degrees more difficult when aged parts are stuck together or screw heads, jets and float hinge pins resist removal due to seizure or damage done to the slotted head.

If you do one at a time, using available technology for photographing how parts fit, or making sketches and taking notes as you Clean and service ONE Carb at a time; you won't get overwhelmed with dozens of parts and the feeling that you have overextended your capabilities.

 

That is excellent (and encouraging!) advice RickCoMatic!

I am one newbie that really appreciates it as I am about to embark on the same journey.

 

Your symptoms could be anything from dirty carbs (highly likely) to a flaky sidestand switch (also a possibility) to petcock problems.

With 26K miles on the bike, how many are yours? When were the valves last checked?

Give us some more history of the bike and your history with it.

 

I'd wager that only 10 are mine. Seriously. Ten. The PO tells me everything got cleaned when the bike was inspected last year, but based on the condition of some other things (oil, spark plugs), I don't think i'm inclined to believe everything he says.
I changed the oil two months ago and the plugs last month.

 

Believe NOTHING the PO told you.

Get the valves checked asap; and run a compression test.

"Months" don't matter; it's miles, so oil and plugs should be OK as long as your carbs and petcock haven't ganged up on you and filled the motor with gas.

Get a service manual; and then go through the "maintenance" chapter, procedure by procedure, skipping none and leaving nothing out. Along the way you will discover what needs to be cleaned, renewed, refurbished or outright replaced. If you DO ALL of it, the bike can and will be quite reliable afterward. My '83 550 has just rolled 5800+ miles on the odo since I put it back on the road, with nothing more than regular oil changes and a couple of chain adjustments.

Here's a checklist:

- check tires, condition, and date codes.

- inspect wheel rims for damage or excessive runout.

- check front brake pads.

- inspect disc brake calipers for damage, wear (thickness), or excessive warpage/runout.

- VISUALLY check rear brake shoes for wear/delamination; adjust rear brake pedal linkage. This is very important. Delamination is common, the only way to detect it is to SEE it. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

- inspect/lube/adjust/replace final drive chain and sprockets. Keep an eye on the chain. If it "bleeds red" when being lubed and won't hold adjustment, it's rusted internally and will need to be replaced. Always replace both sprockets with a chain.

- check and adjust if needed operation of front and rear brake light switches.

- replace rubber brake hoses (check the mfg date stamped in them).

- unless known to be otherwise, plan on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and caliper(s).

- check and clean/replace the air filter element.

- change all fluids: fork oil, engine oil, and brake fluid.

- check and repair any engine or drivetrain/suspension fluid leaks.

NOTE: almost any original oil seal or engine case gasket will need to be replaced when its cover is removed for the first time.

- check and adjust/lubricate/replace steering head bearings.

- check and adjust/lubricate/control cables and speedometer and tachometer (if applicable) drive cables..

- check and adjust/replace rear shock absorbers.

- electrical system inspection, replace fusebox and most probably alternator brushes.

- check battery condition; replenish fluid (distilled water only!).

- clean the battery terminals.

- check all lights for proper operation and brightness (headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, dash illumination).

- check horns for proper operation and loudness.

- check stator resistance.

- check rotor resistance.

- check battery.

- check coil primary, secondary, plug caps resistance.

- check engine cylinder compression; record your findings.

- check and adjust camchain tensioner.

- check and adjust valve clearances; record your findings.

- drain carbs, check for foreign matter in bowls, install in-line fuel filter.

- check function/operation of fuel petcock; correct any leaks and/or rebuild the petcock if indicated.

After all that (and having corrected anything that needed attention along the way,) you should have a nice, reliable bike that you can ride every day with few "surprises."

Betcha your PO missed more than a few...