Clutch Issues

Hello everyone,

Well after putting gas in my tank and driving it around a bit today I have noticed some issues with shifting:

1) Neutral can be tricky to get to (this may be due to the issue below with 1st gear)

2) Shifting down from 2nd to first is giving me issues at stops. Keep pressing down shifter 4-6 times to be sure, so I would assume I should be in first. But when taking off from a stop I get the 2nd gear glugs...So I try shifting down again and 1st clunks in. (In regards to issue #1, it's possible when I shut off bike it is in 2nd. So when I try to find neutral its possible I am actually looking between 2nd and 3rd.)

3) I can't get to 5th gear. At first I thought there were only 4 gears on this bike, but after some reading I now know that's not the case. I get to about 55mph in 4th and the bike "feels" like it wants to be shifted up, but when I try it feels like 4th is the last gear.

Could this be a clutch cable / throwback arm issue? Or am I looking at taking the clutch itself apart?

 

Bump

 

I'd say either.

We need to know:

A. Which bike?
B. What have you done to it?
B.1. Did you try to adjust the cable yet?
B.2. Have you done anything to the clutch itself?
B.3. Have you replaced the cable?

 

A: It's an 81 XJ650H
B:
B.1.: No not yet. Just noticed on my way to work. At work right now...
I did look at it though. I am unfamiliar with how to adjust it. I
looked in my Haynes, and could not find clear information on how
to adjust it. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places...
B.2.: Nothing.
B.3.: Not yet.

I don't know the technical names of any clutch cord parts/adjusters. Everything is just "turney thingy" to me. Using these pics could you help me out?

 

You need to start by adjusting the cable.

This is accomplished by putting the upper adjuster (loosen lock ring "B" then turn "A") so that it is about 1/2 of the way in/out of the upper "perch" (at the handlebar.)

Then loosen BOTH of the two locknuts "D" and adjust so that the slack at lever "C" is just removed from the mechanism. (Push it clockwise as viewed from above.)

Then you "fine tune" it at the top so that it has 1~3mm of free play.

The cable appears to need lubricating. Do that before adjusting it.

The Haynes assumes you have some basic "pre-knowledge" of motorcycles, the factory manuals even moreso.

You need to track down an OWNERS MANUAL for your bike; it covers all of these very basic maintenance adjustments.

Quite honestly, if lubricating and adjusting the clutch cable is "beyond your pay grade" then you might want to do a tad more research before you rip into the clutch.

I hope you've inspected the rear brake shoes for signs of delamination, this one can wreck you: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html If not, do this before you ride the bike any more, please.

 

A - knurled adjuster nut
B - Knurled locking nut
C - throw-out arm
D - bottom nut
in between D and E - top nut
E - adjusting nut


Loosen B, then set A about half in/out of the lever
Unhook the cable at C, remove c-clip, remove throw-out arm.
Turn the clutch actuator (what the throw-out arm is connected to) clockwise until it stops, then re-attach arm. There is a line on the clutch cover that the center of the round end of the arm lines up with.
Loosen both top and bottom nut on cable end.
Re-attach cable.
Move the adjusting end so there is no cable slack and tighten both top and bottom nuts.
Fine adjust knurled nut A so there is 1-3mm travel in the clutch lever, then tighten B.

If this doesn't help with the gear changes, then it will be time to take a look inside the clutch. If it sat for any amount of time before being put back in to use you'll need to look at the clutch pack anyway. When a clutch sits half in/half out of oil for a year or ten it ruins the friction plates.

 

I appreciate the help and advice.

I guess I figured that with the Haynes manual along with this forum and multiple other online sources I could learn how to work on my bike (as using both helped me to completely clean and rebuild my carbs...very well i might add). I have a tendency to geek out and research the hell out of all projects before I start them. Which brings me to this: I *am* doing a tad more research. Asking experienced people in a forum who know a hell of a lot more than I do and in many cases have more answers than the book (such as the carbs; as there are some definite discrepancies) seems like a good place to look if I can't find the info in a manual who's subject is not just to repair a vehicle but also covers routine maintenance (much more routine than the proper way to adjust a clutch cable) with a good amount of detail.

And yes, I have checked for de-lamination (which is not covered in the Haynes or the owners manual I'm sure) of my rear drum thanks to the good people on this forum, in particular you and your write up.

 

Like I said, track down an owner's manual.

The Yamaha owners manuals of the day were quite complete in regard to routine maintenance adjustments; up to and including wheel removal, etc.

They also feature detailed diagrams for adjusting cables, levers, etc., that you won't find anything about in the Haynes.

They pop up on eBay all the time; find one of the USA-market ones (yellow cover with black graphics) specific to your bike, and don't pay more than about $10~$12.

 

Cable looks like it could use a lube job as well.

 

For the record, I went ahead and got a set of 8 friction plates mailed from Japan for $40, and a gasket (even though my old one didn't tear, I decided to replace it anyways since I had bought a new one), and took apart the clutch and replaced them. Fixed my occasionally off-clutch weirdness. Ended up being a pretty darn easy job; hardest part was taking the old gasket off, honestly, which took nearly an hour. The rest of the clutch probably took another hour of work, because it was my first time? Super easy. I filmed it all and will be making an instructional video, too, that I'll post here, but this job wasn't nearly as intimidating as I thought it would be.

 

I hope you installed new springs as well, or the new clutch may slip under certain load conditions once it's bedded in.