Clutch Rebuild

Hey all, I just got done rebuilding my clutch. All new friction plates, springs, and bolts. I lined the dot on the pressure plate to the dot on the hub. Torqued the bolts to 5.8 ft/lbs, torqued the bolts on the cover to 7.2 ft/lbs, and then set my cable. When I pull in the clutch lever and release, it snaps back with authority (good or bad I don't know). My problem (or at least I think it is) is this, when I pull the clutch in and push the bike back and forth, in is VERY stiff. The rear wheel still turns, but there is a lot of resistance. Is this because the clutch is new or did I mess something up? Thanks in advance.

P.S. I was going by Fitz's guide, but I have been known to miss obvious instructions.

 

Are you certain the clutch has full throw out?

Gary H.

 

You might be right. I just went out and readjusted the cable to make it tighter and ran out of adjustment. It seems to be a little easier now to push but still have a lot of resistance. Might be time for a new cable. Does that make sense? Will an old cable work on an old clutch and then be too stretched to work on a new clutch?

 

Yes, an old cable can be stretched enough that it will not allow for enough throwout. Also keep in mind that the rear wheel will spin with the clutch pulled in, engine running, and on the center stand. The hyrdostatic pressure between the clutch plates is enough to cause the unloaded transmission spin.

 

OK. Guess I need a new cable.

 

Should on also first check that the throwout shaft is properly installed / alligned. Here is a picture from BigFitz's guide (which I have not doubt you followed). Bu.t it can e a bit deceiving when you align the marks. As the picture shows , the center of the arm (red line) with the slack taken out is slightly behind the engine case mark and not even with the engine case mark.

 

Hmmm, I didn't notice that. As it sits right now, my "red mark" is ever-so-slightly to the right of the mark. Worth a shot. Thanks.

 

If the cable is adjusted to the point where there is no more room for adjustment, then what you can do is to set the adjusters back a bit and then lift the clutch pivot arm off and re-install it back one tooth. Then, adjust the cable as needed. If it's STILL not disengaging enough, maybe take it back one more tooth. If it's stretched more than that, best get a new one so your next step isn't trying to figure out how to shift in the middle of the night when your cable breaks three states away in a rain storm on the way back from a carb clinic and end up using a pair of vise-grip pliers to pull the cable. Yup, know about that one from another friend who had that happen........

dave f