Crankcase wont open

All the upper bolts are out
All the lower bolts are out
Clutch is out
Ignition timing is out
pretty much everything is out.


So in this pic, the top half of the case will crack open about 2mm, the bottom part will spit out oil as I wiggle it.
It doesn't react the way I might expect if there was a forgotten bolt.
But it wont break apart either.

Any ideas fellas?





Also,
Look what was in my oil strainer:

Finally I can justify cracking the engine!

 

There's a couple dowel pins holding the halves together, have you tried just splitting it at another angle? For me it took a few precise prybar locations to get the front end to split. And because of those pins, it will really help if the case is split evenly, they tend to hold pretty good when it's at an angle.

 

look around the builders supply store for plastic wedges, try to get as many in it as you can. keep it even like Pilot said and start TAPPING the wedges in.
if they start digging in use 3 wedges and tap the center one. your sure all the bolts are out.

 

I'll check my 550 factory book when I get home. Not sure if you need to do something with the alternator first, I see it still on there.

 

One of the starter motor retaining bolts is actually and upper-to-lower c/c bolt...........

 

> Fitz, I hope not, I cant seem to get enough force onto both the timing thing and the alternator bolt to loosen the alternator bolt.
> Chacal, It's cool, the starter motor is in an area which is moving nicely.
> Polock, Yep I'm sure about the bolts, but I might wander down to get some wedges.

the lower half of the photo is the sticky bit, this would be the lower left front of the bike. Closer inspection of the clymer does show some locating dowel in this area, tho its hard to tell which end is up, I'm sure its the dowel that is sticking.

Another question: I'm looking at my engine design and it seems the main engine studs (the really long ones) are exposed to the elements when they go through the cylinder block, allowing them to become rusty and shitty.
WTF.

 

The studs are exposed, yes, But sheathing, or heat shrink goes over them before you put the jugs back on. Just make sure to clean the studs and their holes jn the jugs and head really well, because the old heat shrink likely dried up, cracked, and stuck to places you don't want it stuck.

 

There is a bolt inside the oil filter area that you have to pull..... and I believe there are some on the top of the block that extend down into the lower case. Make sure ALL are out or you'll crack the block.

Dave F

 

There is a bolt inside the oil filter area that you have to pull..... and I believe there are some on the top of the block that extend down into the lower case. Make sure ALL are out or you'll crack the block.

Dave F

 

Yep fully pulled all the bolts.
I went through them al bolt by bolt in descending order.
The bolt you refer is is the last one #1

I have been checking the action carefully and it almost looks as though its at the far left end of the crankcase, behind the timing mechanism, where the two halves meet.
There is a rubber seal there that goes around the main crankshaft.
It looks as though that is my fulcrum.
I dont understand how that could hold the two halves together with all my straining, banging, swearing and begging.

 

GOT IT!
it only took three days..


I tried wiggling it up and down (potentially damaging the mating surface)
I tried using lifting slings, one from my foot to the upper mounting hole (its upside-down) the other from the lower mounting hole to my hands and the pull like crazy to get them apart (potentially damaging my back)

In the end we had to talk about feelings for hours...

 

Clean those posts up real good. You'll thank yourself during reassembly.