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Cutting bolt off oil filter housing

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by avengingllama, Sep 21, 2008.

  1. avengingllama

    avengingllama Member

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    Hey guys.....I am dremeling away on the oil filter bolt but it doesnt seem to want to release. Is the large section that looks like it is a washer acually the part I should be cutting or just the 9-11 mm section? I say 9-11 mm because it was so misshapen that I can't tell what size it WAS. lol Thanks for the info =)
     
  2. bill

    bill Active Member

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    It was 12mm :D

    The washer is part of the head. The whole thing is a "Pipe" with a head. The pipe part is threaded at the far end and is the part that threads into the engine.

    You need to cut out carefully from the nut part until you can get the filter cover off. Then you can remove the pipe part.

    Hope that makes sense I don't have a picture.
     
  3. ZaGhost

    ZaGhost Member

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    Cut away that washer looking section and you can probably turn the rest ut by hand (I could)
     
  4. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Sears (and other places) sell a stripped bold/stud extractor set.

    Makes quick work of that bolt. And you don't have to worry about damaging the filter housing.
     
  5. nsosh5

    nsosh5 Member

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    i bought an aftermarket bolt rather than the oem. The aftermarket has a bigger head an won't strip aa easy
     
  6. NursePadawan

    NursePadawan Member

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    I had to use a pair of channel-locks to get the bolt off of mine. Promptly replaced it with a new aftermarket one I bought from Chacal (and even remembered the anti-seize on the threads). Cutting that bolt out would an absolute last resort if vice grips failed to get it off.
     
  7. coachholland

    coachholland Member

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    I had to get the sears set for mine, they come in sizes from 10-18 mm. The thread was so badly damaged, the 12 mm wouldn't hold, so I used the dremmel to grind it down to around 10 mm, then used it the sears 10 mm to get it out. If you're less than 10 mm, it's likely the bolt won't come out even with the sears tool.

    Definitely order one from Chacal after you're done. Sourcing the bolt from the dealer is going to set you back $50 or more!
     
  8. avengingllama

    avengingllama Member

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    unfortunately I am at the "last resort" part of the project :( I have tried the vice grips as well as the damaged bolt removal set from sears. The bolt is so badly hosed that I could not get a bite on it with either of them. I have already taken the head of the bolt off, which in hindsiht was probably a mistake, I should have tried to "recreate" a head by grinding away with the dremel. So now I am just hoping to be able to get a bit with a screw extractor set.
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Drill successively larger holes right smack dab in the center of the end of that bolt.

    Then, grind away at the Inside Diameter of the Shouldered Section of the Bolt until you get the Shouldered Section to just fall off.

    The Filter dome will be released.
    The, grab the remainder of the Big Bolt with an angry-jawed Pipe Wrench.

    The trick is to not destroy the Machined end of the Dome.
    Just grind away the steel.
     
  10. bill

    bill Active Member

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    Not sure an extractor will do the job. even the largest one you could find I would think would be too small.

    I hope it works for you but I'm afraid you are at the point you will need to carefully remove the washer part....
     
  11. avengingllama

    avengingllama Member

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    trying the successively larger bits now. when the housing is ready will it just pull off or does it twist off like an oil filter on a car?
     
  12. bill

    bill Active Member

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    Once you get it free if should pop off - there is a spring.
     
  13. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Once you get to the Outside Diameter of the hollow bolt ... the Filter Dome will become loose.
    There NO threaded area.
    The Shouldered Area of the Bolt supplies force to compress the Dome to its Seat where an O-ring seals it.

    Grind away the Bolt Material of the Shouldered portion.
    Once you grind-off the Shouldered part of that Bolt from the inside ... you're home free!
     
  14. avengingllama

    avengingllama Member

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    thank God it's not something that I will need to guess about.....lol. I am ok with obvious. *continues drilling
     
  15. avengingllama

    avengingllama Member

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    Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I ended up getting the bolt out. =) After cutting away portions of the washer part, I used larger drill bits until I drilled a hole just large enough to insert the largest extractor I had, used a big freaking crescent wrench (about a foot long) and gave it the old heave ho! and BLAM!! out it came =) now I just have to figure out where the little orange o-ring that came with the fram oil filter goes. Looks to me like it should go on the "top" of the oil filter bolt where the threads are. But I get the feeling you are going to say that it actually goes somewhere else.....lol. Thanks for all the help guys and your patience. Hopefully at some point this thread helps someone in the same predicament.

    Edited because after reading I even confused myself. lol
     
  16. Ease

    Ease Member

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    Just for the record, Yamaha sells the aftermarket bolt, not OEM (at least my local dealer did... $21 bucks CDN)... even they figured out the olt head was too small. ;)

    Congrats in finally getting the bolt out.
     
  17. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Yes, it goes somewhere else.

    Near the "head" end of the bypass bolt there is a groove. The orange o-ring goes in there to seal the bolt to the housing.
     
  18. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Nice work getting the darn thing out!

    The small O-ring fits a groove on the Bolt just below the Shoulder.
    It makes the end of the Bolt Oil-tight at the Inside Diameter of where the Bolt passes through the Filter Dome.
     

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