Differences between '82 750 Seca and 750 Maxim

To my eye, that's a pretty complete Maxim... Rear shocks are not original, but that's all I see. Someone more experienced with Maxims might see more, but it looks like a good starting point to me. Has a compression test happened yet?

 

I haven't yet. Still gotta pull that stuff out. The previous owner (of only 2 months) said he did a compression test. He couldn't remember what it was at and didn't know what it should be, but he said that all four matched. Not that I trust him, but I'm going to focus on wheels and brakes first. I'll test just before I pull the carbs out for a rebuild.

On another note, I went out this morning to put it up on the center stand, and noticed that it's been leaking a little. Not a fast leak. But a leak, none-the-less. right on the bottom of the bike. I haven't looked closely yet, and I could've managed a better pic than this, but breakfast beckons!

 

could be the oring in the oil level switch right above the oil and muffler clamp.
you may want to replace the crush washer on the drain bolt too

 

This weekend, I got the back tire off, and checked out the brakes. Plenty of meat left on the brakes, but I'll replace them anyway.

The part that concerns me is that there's hardly any movement in the control lever, and the cam squeals out a complaint when I move it around. Guess I'll have to take that apart to clean and add a dab of grease in there.

I knew something was off with the back brakes!

That's as far as I got, though. A damn monsoon blew through. I had to cover everything up with a tarp and hope for the best. I just sat back and watched the trees swaying. A neighbor's awning even ripped off in the wind and blew back down about 20 feet from my vulnerable bike. I'm a little jealous of you people with the luxury of having a garage!

 

Shocks are correct for thre bike. Good looking bike to start with. Where are you located? Chances are, a list member is nearby to help.

Dave f

 

I live a bright, sunny little slice of hell, called Phoenix!

 

ok.. maybe a beginner thing. I missing something here and need some suggestions.
I took apart the rear drum on the '82 Maxim. New tires, refurbished the drum, new pads and now I'm putting it all back together. Almost there, but one irritation left:

When I try to get the axle in, I'm having a hell of a time getting everything to tighten down where the new cotter pin can go into the hole - seated in one of the castle nut grooves like it should be. I push the axle back out a bit trying to line it up, cinch down the pinch bolt, and go to work, then find it still doesn't line up. I've got the washer in there on both sides.

Every time, as I tighten down, I find the axle end has pushed out beyond the castle nut, to where the holes are past the castle nut grooves. Furthermore, can't even get them to line up. For the moment, I dropped in the cotter pin when it would fit and took a couple pictures to see if somebody spots what could be wrong.

But i think this is just a case of "what's the trick"?

What I've got right now:

 

Nice, clean Maxim, looks pretty much fully stock and pretty well treated.

I'm largely talking out of my backside here, but I wouldn't really worry about the cotter pin. It's still going to prevent that nut from falling off, and while it could back off a little bit in theory it's really, really unlikely for that to happen and shouldn't really do much of anything as the swing arm is securely holding the wheel in place.

With that said, an easy fix here is just slapping a washer underneath the castle nut, then you're golden.

But I'm sure someone more knowledgeable and less hacky than me will chime in if there's something really wrong with this.

 

Did you put the long spacer back inside the punkin housing before putting the rim back on?

 

Punkin housing? ... I think you lost me there - I don't know that term. Do you mean the final drive unit? The only spacer I remember seeing is the one between the wheel bearings in the hub. That's definitely back in. When I pulled the wheel off the final drive, I don't remember seeing anything. Just the drive hub gear on the tire, and the gear on the final drive it fits onto.

 

So, when you tighten the castle nut, the shaft gets pulled through, slipping past the cinch clamp?



XJ4Ever.com has a great tutorial on removal and replacement of rear wheel. Go to page 15 for replacement instructions.

http://www.xj4ever.com/rear drum brakes.pdf

 

yeah... that's the instructions I was following, alongside the books.

Looking it over again, there is one thing I didn't catch: Referencing Page 15 of Chacal's instructions. On my bike, the bolt is shorter and never had a nut and washer underneath for that pinch bolt. Not sure if it has anything to do with my issue, but Maybe something I need to look at.

(in fact, you can see the difference, in my picture a couple posts up)

I suppose that's a nut I can find at a hardware store, but... thoughts?

 

I looked at your pic again...I don't remember the holes being so close to the end. I wonder if yours was just drilled funny.i. I'm gonna check mine to compare.

 

it is all in how you bend the cotter pin.
rotate the eye of the cotter pin 90 degrees then you push the leg of the pin into the slot of the nut bend leg down to follow body of nut. the other leg is bent up to follow around shaft
this will give you 2 shear points in the slots and look a lot better.
use needle nose pliers to shape and push the leg

 

is this your cotter pin

this is ugly and as you can see the holes for pin are way out
turn 90 degrees bend trim and cut
head of pin is in slot lower leg is bent into slot and follows nut
outer leg is bent around axle end
finaly tap it with a rubber mallet or a little block of wood to bring it home

I use stainless cotter pins and shorter than one shown in photo

 

disregard this little entry.. something glitched, while trying to post from phone

 

also in the FSM it states if when torqued the holes do not line up with slots torque it a little more to line them up.

pinch bolt is the last thing you tighten washer is there to keep bolt head from chewing the swing arm boss

just a bolt and washer 9 and 10

 

happens a lot with phones


also the 2 washers on the axle are different parts maybe different thickness did you reverse the locations (if this is possible)?

 

Maybe I'll give that a shot. I noticed that later last night, too - that the pinch nut is tightened after. Problem is, it's not technically possible to do the pinch bolt last, because if it's not tightened down, the axle spins when trying to torque the castle nut to 77 lbs.

Is it at all possible the wheel bearing is pushed in too far? I don't think it'd have anything to do with this, though. and the spacer is in there, so I assume it's fine. I just remember on one side, when pressed in, the wheel bearing wasn't flush with the hub edge. it was about 2 or 3 millimeters in.

(but I think now I'm just throwing thoughts at the wall, in case something sticks!)

 

on a side note, looking again at the first of my pics above, you can even see the difference in position. on the pinch nut site, see where there are a few wear marks to the left of the pinch nut location? That's about how much the axle is pushing past the castle nut, and shows that it's not where it lined up when I took it apart.