Driveshaft oil question

Hey guys, almost done and ready to ride but have to finish the brakes and a couple of other small things =) One thing I realised is that I have changed all of my fluids except for the driveshaft oil. Is there anything special I need to do or is it like the engine oil? I noticed what looks like a large screw on the bottom....is that the drain plug and the large bolt on top is to refill? Also, what is the capacity of the driveshaft and is there something I can use to get what I assume is going to be a lot of "muck" on the inside? I assume there will be muck because it sat for 14 years under a tarp outdoors. Hopefully these are not duuuh questions but I would like to be sure.
Another question that is unrelated but I need some help with. I changed out the brake shoes but now the wheel won't turn and I can't seem to get the adjustment screw to turn. Should I just work it harder or lube it up real good and then try it? Thanks in advance for the help =)

 

SAE80 Hypoid Gear Oil from local auto parts place. 85 will work too.

One jug will do ya (1 qt I believe)

Shouldn't be much 'muck' as just dirty oil. It's completely sealed.

Top is fill, bottom is drain. After draining, I would flush it with about 1/6th the bottle of the oil, close it, spin the wheel a few times, then drain, and fill.
To fill full, just fill till it comes right up to the hole. If it comes out (flows out the fill hole) you are full, and the excess will just pour/drip out.
Kind of messy sometimes

Sounds to me like the shoes went in wrong somehow, or something went back together wrong. I haven't done mine yet, so I'll let someone else chime in on that.

Don't lube your shoes. lol

 

On my bike it's difficult to get an oil pan underneath the drain screw as the tire sits wider. I taped up some saran wrap to to the hub and let it hang into the oil pan to keep mess to a minimum.

dpawl31 - When I did mine the drain screw was coated in black "muck." Granted, this is probably the first gear oil change since 1985, but I never knew gear oil could gum up and darken like that. Especially considering that the oil I put in was almost fluorescent.

 

no shoe lubing here the situation is this....I replaced the pads nd te heel spis freely until I try to put the screw for the torque arm in. That is when the brakes lock up. My guess is that since the shoes are new and the old ones had 7600 miles on them there is a difference in thickness of the shoes so the adjustment is necessary

 

put the brake rod with spring on the rod through the trunion in the brake arm, then hook up the torque stay, with your brake pedal in the up position put on the adjuster nut, you should have about an inch +or- of threaded rod sticking out the back side of the nut when adjusted, and the wheel should spin freely. if this is not what you end up with, something inside the drum has not been put back together right. good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

I will give that a shot =) had not thought of making sure the pedal was up whtn I reassembled it. Thanks for the idea

 

Could also be that the "arm" that the pedal rod attaches to at the wheel somehow got clocked on the splined shaft out of the wheel. That is removeable and therefor adjustable by loosening the pinch bolt holding the arm to the spline.