elec q - power seeping in from somewhere

So, I had an idea to tear out my airbox and build a pod setup. What actually ended up happening after I took the carbs and airbox off involved hacking a part of the frame off and deciding to run only with minimal wiring.

This is where the problem begins. I have simplified the original minimum wiring diagram even further and removed the tail light, brake light, signal fuse and brake switches (they'll go on there when I get the right parts). Now, the issue is this: I can turn on my headlight (lo/off/hi) AND crank the engine with the key in the OFF position. I have looked through all my wiring on the bike, and compared it to the diagram, everything matches up.

After messing with it for a few hours each day, this is what I eventually narrowed it down to (after shocking myself and almost shorting out the battery):
- If I pull the IGNITION 10A fuse then the key functions as normal for the headlight. Meaning, if the key is on the headlight is on. If the key is off, the headlight is off. But, now no matter where the key is, the motor won't crank.
So, as far as I understand, power is seeping in somewhere from between the relay and the IG fuse, but where?

I have been going crazy looking at the diagram and trying to figure this out (first major foray into electrical work). Any ideas to try?

As a reference, my simplified diagram is attached below.
Thanks!

 

take the reg and tci off before you cook them, then do this

 

Tried that, same deal. Headlight works fine if the IG fuse is out.

I reduced the circuit to only the battery (which is grounded), the starter relay (connected to the starter and the + side of the battery) with a single lead going to the grounded starter switch and it still turns the motor over.

Does it matter which small pin on the relay the L/W (starter switch wire) is connected to?
Does it matter which small pin on the relay the hot + wire is connected to?
Is it possible my relay is bad?

Am I doing something wrong?

 

If you reduced the circuit to the pic in your last post, the relay will not energize because only one of the relay coil wires is being used. One goes to 12v and the other one goes to ground when the starter button is pressed. 12v across the relay coil energizes the relay. If you have that and the starter won't crank, then you have a bad relay.

 

Yes, that's all correct. The problem is it DOES crank with only one wire.

I had a dream, and I think I know what the issue is. I need to take a closer look at my relay when I get home...

 

Aha. Then that would mean one of the relay coil wires is getting 12v already. If there is no jumper between a coil wire and the battery side of the relay, then there must be some kind of internal short. Really odd.

 

Forgot about my thread.

The issue is solved. There was a thin copper plate that was connecting the hot terminal from the battery to the tiny gold post for the starter switch feeding power in to the entire system.