electrical issue

So my bike is sitting with no oil (I'm still working on the oil filter bolt that is seized) I bought a new battery, installed it and then noticed that I had the connections backwards and that it is a totally different battery. Yes, I am an idiot. I quickly removed it and put the old one back in.

Turn the key and I get no power. There is voltage from the battery and at the first connection directly behind the battery and below the seat.

Did I fry everything? Is there something on the site to walk me through checking all the components in sequence?

Before installing the new battery, I removed the gauges and control panel. the ignition switch got bumped and was out of place. I thought that was the problem so I took it apart cleaned and reassembled it following instruction I found here. There's a slight chance that's the problem, but I don't think so.

 

The lights don't care about polarity. If the lights are dead I'd look to the main fuze.

 

Maybe you dodged a bullet.

If the Wiring Harness didn't shrivel, melt and smoke on you, ... you might have had a Fuse save you.

 

Time spent in reversed polarity is your enemy. If you quickly discovered your error and pulled the cables free, then probably no major damage. Modern systems with their complex cpu's can be seriously jammed in no time by RP but our bikes are more forgiving.

You can check your fuses first cause you never know but they aren't the first place reverse polarity damage would go-fuses blow by excess amperage in shorts usually-but that will happen if RP melts a component. If you had not switched on the ignition the rectifier would be the first place to look, with the ignition turned on it may have damaged your TCI or if you have a diode in your headlight bucket it would melt that first. You need a manual with a wiring diagram. You can follow the + circuits leading from the battery and check for visual then continuity damage. Another way to check is the 'sniff' test, strange as it might seem melted electronics will stink and can easily be detected this way. You will know it when you smell it-but don't wait. I would suspect the rectifier/regulator assembly.

 

Have you replaced the fuse box? Good time to do it.

And with the Oil filter bolt, just cut/grind/drill the head off and then use a vice grips on the remaining shaft that will be sticking out.

No problem there.

 

You can also:

Remove the 4 Exhaust Down Pipes.
Grap the "Shoulder" of the Oil Filter Bolt with a Medium or Small sized Pipe Wrench.
Use an 18" Length of Pipe fitted over (around) the Pipe Wrench's Handle and a lever (called a "Persuader" by Plumbers) to add leverage.
Righty --> Tighty
Lefty --> Loosey

Grab the Bolt Shoulder with the Pipe Wrench.
Affix the Length of Pipe to the Wrench Handle.
Apply Strong loosening Torque to the Pipe Lever.
STRIKE the Pipe downward with a Hemmer Handle or 18" of Baseball Bat Handle.
Repeat as necessary until Bolt breaks loose.

Install NEW Bolt.
Apply Anti-seize Compound to 20mm of Thread at the Threaded End and backside of the Shoulder.
Tighten New Bolt to: 11-FtLbs

 

It was the main fuse. Popped in the spare and I've got juice. Simple fix.

Got the bolt out too! I cut apart the oil filter housing with a grinder. Eventually the housing and bolt unscrewed together. The bolt was fused to the out side of the housing. I had to hammer the bolt out of the housing itself.

Messy job, but it's done. I ordered a new housing and bolt. Should be here Thursday.