Electronic Carb Balancing

There are a lot of folks using the vacuum/liquid type carb balancers, but I'm wondering why the electronic sychronizers are not mentioned very often. I've been using an electronic one since 2000 and not only is it fast, but less cumbersome and just as accurate. You can only synch 2 at a time so it takes 3 steps to complete but the unit is as small as a voltmeter so portability is great. Just wondering that's all. :?

 

I have never seen one - I googled it and did not find much. The vacuum gauge is very cheap and the bottle rig can be made even cheaper. What do they normally cost?

Technically I don't see any difference - the electronic unit is just an electronic vacuum difference gauge.

 

Here is a link to a website that has it. Called the Twinmax and it's portable, and tough as nails, but costs about $99. Over the years it has saved me a bundle on synching. http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax-p-28.html
The big difference is that there are no liquids involved (especially mercury). Like I said earlier, it's just another option and no, I am not a salesperson for this.

 

hmmmmm that might just be worth it

 

Point of fact: "Modern" carb stix like the CarbTune II and CarbTune Pro do NOT use mercury either. Interesting option tho...

 

$100? I prefer the bottles for home synching. On the road, your little electronic gizmo might be nice.

 

My neighbor has one of the electronic ones! I asked about it here a while ago and no one could really say anything to me about it. After I fix my valves and exhaust I'm going to have him sync my carbs electronically. I'll let ya'll know how it went?
-SLKid

 

yea, I made my yics tool and vacuum sync for $15. considering I only plan on using it once, I dont really want to spend $100

 

Hah, was gonna Elec Sync today! But I didnt order one of my Valve Shims and now gotta wait another couple days.. Blaaaah.. Sucks man. Oh well, rear brakes and bleed brakes today then. Still, I'll post pics and whatnot when I finish the Elec sync
-SLKid

 

Hi chaps (and chapesses)

Long time reader, first time poster - greetings from Asia,

I purchased the electronic gizmo from Adventure after having read about it here. Firstly, Adam and Frank from Adventure were first class and I had an e-mail dialogue with them for several days before committing to buy.

I received it in record time and used it for the first time last weekend. The carbs had been off the bike a few times for cleaning and re-cleaning, bench synch'd and I also swapped over some valve shims to get them closer to spec before using the the synch'er.

It ws remarkably quick to use and easy to accomplish an indicated in-synch reading. I tried it with and wothout the YICS tool and to be honest found it easier to get a stable reading without the YICS tool.

I don't know about anyone else, but I find it very difficult to get the motor to stay running (to get synch readings) with the tool. I purchased it from O-Motors so would assume it is suitable to use with the 400/4 which is virtually identical to the 550. Sometimes it works OK other times not. Maybe it is the end sealing (that I've read about here) that isn't right, not sure.

I also have a Morgan Carbtune but find that also difficult to use in that the revs have to be so high to get the rods to rise. I've cleaned the metal rods and tubes as per the manual but not satisfactory, hence my decision to use the electronic device.

Anyway, I found that it gave a good account of itself, was quick, easy (but can do only no. 3 plus any one other at a time) and gave a stable result. Coupled with the valve adjustments, the motor is running well. I also adjusted the float heights last week which was the single most effective tuning job I have done on it. I had to adjust every one as the float levels were about 3-4mm low. I had put this job off and off as it is so fiddly with no nipples on the carb bowls but I am so glad I have done it now.

For anyone else putting it off, do it now as it can make a world of difference if your levels aren't right! 8O

Best!
AM

 

Glad to hear your getting some results in tuning. Welcome to the forum.

MN

 

MN, thanks.

Here in the Philippines, bikes are big, but not big-bikes. Yamaha are the most popular but they are all in the 100-125cc range. It's what people here can afford.

The Yamaha dealer does have an array of parts for mine fortunately and they are much cheaper than the UK or US but I can't find stock mufflers here for love or money which is the one (or two!) parts I really want to put on. I think that I will have them made to order (which is the next best thing) - workmanship here is first class.

I have had this bike for 5 years now and I have been through it all. On the engine side, only down as far as having the block off (motor has never been out of the frame) to replace the rear camchain guide when I swapped the chain. I did lash out on Accel coils/wires for her a couple of years ago which she appreciated but she's pretty much as she came out of the factory in Japan.

A paint job is next but SWMBO is pulling rank on that at this moment. I spend too much time with a spanner in hand she claims.

Safe riding,
AM

 

I still don't understand how you could "synch" the engine WITHOUT the YICS tool in place.

Synch gauges work by measuring the vacuum draw of each cylinder, and allowing you to measure the amount of vacuum draw of cylinder "A" to cylinder "B". Then, by adjusting the throttle openings on an individual carb, you can adjust the relative power output of an individual cylinder so that each indivdual cylinder is producing an equal amount of power (and thus an equal amount of vacuum pull).

People who won't adjust their valves, take note!: the synch process REQUIRES you to adjust the power output of all cylinders DOWN TO THE LOWEST PERFORMING CYLINDER'S POWER OUTPUT!!

But back to the issue.....WITHOUT a YICS tool in the YICS passage, then all four cylinders "share" vacuum amongst each other......that's the whole purpose of the YICS system and passage.

So how would you ever measure the vacuum signal from each cylinder individually, if each cylinder is sharing vacuum from all the others?

 

Andrew, look at this:

http://www.laser-exhausts.com/cgi-bin/s ... ywords=all

 

Hi Len

Yes, you are absolutely correct and I do understand how the passage works and why isolating each carb from it's neighbours will give a true vacuum reading. I was trying to illustate the problems I have with the blanking tool. I did check when I ordered it (I forget the fellows name) that it would work with the 400 and we sort of agreed between us that the 400 and 550 *should* have the same passage dimensions but of course neither of us could be 100% sure. I don't have access to a 550 head and he had never supplied to a 400 before.

Anyway, what you say is definately right (although I know there are a few who disagree for some reason) - When I get home (in HK at the moment) I am going to look again at the tool as I am not certain that the end of it (at the locking device) is fully sealing the passage which may be why I am running bad with it in (i.e. sucking air).

Again, correct valve adjustment is a prerequisite and must be done first.

 

Hey -biff

Thank you. The mufflers in the pdf sheet look to be about right. The photo on the link shows pipes which look open to me but the pdf sheet looks perfect.

My problem of course is shipping but I do travel to LAX often so could have them shipped to my agent there and pick them up from him. I have added tnat link to my bookmarks. Thanks again sir.

AM