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Engine redlines immediately when started

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by backlash1818, Mar 22, 2012.

  1. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    I just got my back back together from replacing my old starter clutch...It's amazing the darn thing worked at all when I compared it to my new one!

    So anyways, I start the bike, it immediately goes into friggin redline.

    I tried putting it on the center stand and dropping it in first gear, thinking perhaps it had something to do with my clutch, but the damn thing did it again.

    I've check the throttle cable and butterfly valves to make sure it isn't something simple, but I can't seem to get a grip on what it is.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Throttle quadrant trapped under a fin on the back of the motor?

    Mix up the throttle and choke cables upon reassembly?
     
  3. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    Idle screw is adjusted all the way in, but if actually red-lining shouldn't be that. Can take it to 5000-8000rpms.

    Be methodical and you will figure it out. It's getting lots of air and fuel so it can only be a few things. Don't let it run for any amount of time at those rpm's-it will damage things.
     
  4. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    Yeah....turns out one of my carb boot rings had been put on upside down. I'd like to say that it wasn't my fault, but I don't trust anyone enough to let them work on my bike....noob error!

    So I got it to run and idle at the proper rpms without running like a banshee at all. For a second I thought I had messed something up inside the engine, but after calming down and thinking about it, I realized it would only be the throttle or idle screw.

    So I putted around my backyard a bit and immediately noticed my clutch doesn't work worth a sh!t....When I hold the lever down to dis-engage the gears, I get this faint swishing sound, and it doesn't disengage the gears at all.

    I'm guessing the big 22mm nut is either too tight, or not tight enough.

    Could definitely use some help here!
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  6. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    Right...well, I've been adjusting the cable. I've got the adjustment next to the lever out as far as it will go, and I've put 2 nuts, the round end of a wrench, and 3 coke can tabs as spacers to pull the cable out further.

    With that configuration, it still doesn't want to separate and switch gears.

    So since I have a xj700 air-head, I don't have the tabs or D shaped plates. I'm mostly curious about the large nut ( goes on the end of the shatf, has a lock washer under it). I'm wondering if having that too tight would cause the clutch not to engage?

    I've also been studying the manual pretty closely and noticed something about the way they word the installation of the friction plates.

    On page 3-40, step 7, it says to install:Friction plates(without V-cut in tab)(7 pieces) & Clutch plates (7 pieces)

    After careful consideration and thought...and digging through the trash to find the old ones I threw away so I could count them.....I think I know my problem.

    I'm one friction plate short of a full clutch....(think we can incorporate that phrase and use it on members that seem a bit crazy?)

    I have the "extra" plate in my shed, safe and sound waiting to be installed in the morning. Hopefully this will fix my problem. Thanks for the input guys, made me look at the manual a third time, which is when I noticed the slightly strange phrasing and counted my plates.

    I'll post tomorrow whether or not I was successful...
     
  7. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    Ok, so that last plate made the difference, clutch actually works now.

    I do still hear a rubbing sound when I hold down the clutch lever while moving at more than 10mph though...Is this normal? I was thinking maybe its because it's a brand new clutch and needs to be worn in, but I'm not entirely sure.
     
  8. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Did you carefully inspect the condition of the "wafer" bearing and its steel washer (the one that keeps it from eating into the aluminum pressure plate?)

    Did you soak the clutch parts in oil prior to reassembly?

    Do you have the cable over-tight, so that it's pulling tighter than needed to release the clutch?

    Are you sure the sound is coming from the clutch, and not the transmission or middle gear or driveshaft?
     
  9. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    I am positive its coming from the clutch, only makes the sound when I pull the clutch lever.

    I didn't soak the parts in oil, but I did rub oil all over them for a few mins each before installing them. I'll do that tomorrow.

    The bearing and the washer both looked like they were in decent condition, the washer didn't have grooves or anything in it...I'm going to order replacements anyway, if that could be an issue.

    Does soaking vs rubbing oil on them for roughly 2 mins make a big enough difference to cause a problem? I'm going to take em back out and soak them again tomorrow just to be sure. Just wondering if there is a major difference so I can tell people not to do it!
     
  10. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    I decided to wait to make any changes to the clutch until I got some torque wrenches.

    I noticed the 5 screws in the clutch boss are only supposed to be at 8.5 foot/lbs ...which, needless to say, is not too damn much. I have severely overtightened those, I'm ashamed to say.

    But now I have my wrenches, and after a quick trip to home depot, I'm going to take her apart, soak the clutch in oil, and put it back together with the proper torque specs. I have a feeling that the *MASSIVELY* over-tightened screws in the clutch boss have a lot to do with my issues atm.

    I also just caught sight of a post that said "worst bike ever" or something to that affect. He complained that the bike left him stranded in the middle of nowhere cause the battery died....I thought everyone checked their battery when they bought a 30 yr old bike?

    My baby left me stranded a few times when I first got her, due to charging issues, but once I got that sorted out and my carbs cleaned she ran VERY reliably. Even before I rebuilt the petcock and got my gas flow perfect and fuel levels at the manual specs, she never died or left me stranded.

    Guy wants a reliable, low-maintenance bike....I'm thinking something with pedals =p
     

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