float adjustment with carbs off

XJ-brain-

So the story continues for me... I got the carbs off the bike yesterday. Who would have thought that I could have done that 4 weeks ago. Thanks, Robert and others who helped and encourage. And thank god for clymers too. Now comes the cleaning, which will happen this weekend. BlueMaxim sent me the guide and will go through that. I sent my money for the XJCD last week. Hopefully I will get it soon. I wonder if I should wait for the CD before I do the cleaning or can I make it through with clymers and carb cleaning guide. So i believe I need to clean and adjust the floats. I believe they are stuck. I will try the dremel tool with car wax trick. In order to accurately measure the floats, do I need to put the carb rack back on the bike. According to clymers, I need to let the engine run for a few minutes in order to accurately measure the float levels. Is there a way for me to measure the float levels while the carb rack is off? Another thing, any suggestions on the carb dip I use? For the carb dip, I have to make sure I remove all the gaskets and rubber material from the carb right? Do I dip the whole carb assembly in there? Since I do not have an air compressor, I wanted to use an air can. Do I have to be careful when using the air can. Can I basically run compressed air through the whole carb assembly and its innards or is this not recommended? I also wanted to check the intake boots. I looked at it right now while the carbs are off and it looks ok (i guess). I wanted to do the propane tank test. So for that I will need a tank with the torch nozzle. Just run the nozzle around the boots while the engine is running (carbs back on of course) and check to see if it revs up right? I'm afraid of the propane gas igniting. Next step after this is to do the carb sync and color tune plug i suppose. I believe that will require the YICs tool and colortune plug. While the tank is off, I noticed that there was a little rusting. I wanted to take this opportunity to perhaps paint over the rust. Can I use regular black spray paint?


Thanks all for all the suggestions and advice.... I know this post is loaded with questions.

 

Floats are easier set with the carbs off. I attach clear tubing to all 4 bowls and level the carb rack on table. A torpedo with a magnetic side makes this much easier. It will stick to the top of the carbs.
Check inside the intake boots for cracks. If found then treat the outside with RTV sealant.
Compressed air from a can is ok but not like from an air compressor. Basic idea is to blow the guts out of the air and fuel passages. I only soak the brass bits in carb dip. The carb passages I blow out with Berrymans B12 followed by compressed air.
Don't dip the carb body because there are orings inside which can't be removed without breaking the carbs from the rack.

 

Had to give you a quick post because lunch time ran out. So now at home I will detail things a little more. First things first, read and STUDY the carb cleaning guide with the carb rack beside you. Learn where everything is and what it is called. I would make a rough sketch of the choke circuit so you can put it back together right. Digital pic is even better.
Float level is checked by measuring with clear tubing attached to the drain outlet on the float bowl. THis is easier on Hitachi's because they have a nipple the tubing will just slip over. Your Mikuni's have a recessed drain so I suggest taking float bowl off and taking it to the hardware store to find the correct sized tubing to fit snuggly. The manual says to have the bike running because you want to check the level for awhile and see if it rises. This would indicate a leaking float valve. With the bench test you just wait with the petcock on prime if using you tank to fill the carbs until you know that the level is stable.
You of course have to loosen the float bowl drain screws so fuel can fill the tubing. The drain screws are known to stick. When you remove the bowls heat the inside with a cigarette lighter, (after removing all fuel and while away from any other fuel source) right where you see the indentation for the drain screw. This will loosen the gum that collects here and allow the screw to back out. If it doesn't come out fairly easily don't force it with a regular screw driver but instead use an impact. The manual type you hit with a hammer. Harbor Freight has them for about $10. Fill the bowls with carb dip and let them sit until the next day when you get the impact. To see a pic check out Nick's photo gallery is the user galleries area of this site. For a good pic of Mikuni carbs check out these links.
http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/photos/ ... C02481.JPG
http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/photos/viewmai.cfm
You can save yourself the expense of air in a can and just use the Berrymans B12. This comes in a spray can and will do the same thing with a carb cleaner. It is also good for cleaning the outside of the carbs. Use saftey glasses and maybe gloves if you have sensitive skin. I am not kidding about the safety glasses. That stuff hurts!
To clarify, carb dip is the stuff that comes in a gallon can. Know as Carburetor and Parts Cleaner by Gunk. I only put brass parts in there. This would be the pilot and main jets, emulsion tube, choke plungers, pilot mixture screws and float seats. NO float valves, a.k.a. float needles, floats or main needle jets. Other metal parts can go in but all rubber and plastic parts must be removed. The float bowls can be immersed if not painted.
The propane test is only needed if things don't idle well after rebuilding the carbs. Don't worry about that now. However the RPM of the bike will not always go up. It will just change. An increase or decrease is indication of leakage.
The only time to be careful with the compressed air is when it is near your eyes or you haven't gotten the washer and oring out of the piot mixture screw seat. They will go flying out never to be seen again. When you get to this point PM me your snailmail addy and I will send you some new orings. I bought some when doing my carbs and had to buy a lot of 100. Still have about 30 left. Don' t have any of the washers though so be careful.
I will in Dallas for the NTCC this weekend. Leaving tomorrow after work. So the other dudes will have to pinch hit for me. You're in good hands with them so ask whatever you need.

 

Hi BM-

that was way more than I expected. What was esp helpful was the breakdown of all the parts that can/cant go in the carb dip. I am trying to reference it in the clymers and the online schematics.

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/ ... fault.aspx

Some parts are referenced differently which makes it a little challenging. the links to the pics you sent definitely helped. thanks. I bought a carb dip yesterday (by berryman) and a spray can (by gunk). They didn't have the berryman's spray can at the store. What I also found out was that seafoam cannot be sold in California. Guess will have to look for it online somewhere. I will let you know of my progress. have a great time at the clinic..

seca550_sf

 

I am not quite sure what these parts are in this diagram

float valves, a.k.a. float needles, floats or main needle jets.
http://parts.motorsportdealers.com/part ... 3,39570173

What numbers to they correspond to in the diagram? Is the main needle jet the same as the needle jet? Does the needle jet sit on top of the emulsion tube (or in case of the diagram, the nozzle #36) opposite the end of the main jet? According to diagram there are two main jets (#23 and #37). What's up with that? Can I put the small torpedo shaped piece of metal sitting on the float seat (#43) in the carb dip? One last thing, where are these in the diagram:

choke plungers, pilot mixture screws, piot mixture screw seat and butterfly valves?

Sorry for all the questions. I want to be sure I do this right and not mess up my first bike

Thanks in advance everyone.

 

I don't know what brand of carbs you have but here's a link to Hitachi carb info. If you click on the Hitachi Carb Version 1 link in the top left corner you will get a cross section of a carb. It may help to some degree.

http://www.drpiston.com/hitachicarbs.html

Your links don't work for me but, "the small torpedo shaped piece of metal sitting on the float seat " is possibly the float needle valve, it has a rubber tip on one side and a spring loaded tip on the other, don't soak this piece.
The butterfly valves are just aluminum disks attached to the throttle valve, you can see them by looking into the carb throat.