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Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :-)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by shnuffy, Mar 16, 2010.

  1. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    Hello everybody, I'm elated to have found this website! I thought early 80's XJ's would be long forgotten.

    I am the proud owner of a 1983 Maxim 550. I've owned it for 10 years. It's also been sitting in a garage for 10 years (so no rust!).

    My roommate and I are very interested in getting it going this spring. We're both reasonably mechanically inclined, though we have little experience with motorcycle engines.

    Since it's been sitting for so long, I know it will need a few things and I know it might need a few things.

    Will need:
    - Compression test
    - Carb syncing
    - Tires
    - I broke the front the break handle when moving homes, so it needs that.
    - A little love?

    Might need:
    - New gaskets
    - Brakes
    - ?

    This is the situation, it's been sitting for 10 years or so in a garage but a few years back I was able to get it running. However, it just pissed oil out of the front of the motor. I really, really hope it's just a poorly fitted oil filter and not something like a shot head gasket. If it were a head gasket, would it leak out that much? I mean, the bike was virtually dry after 1 minute of running after a complete top-up (I did not continue running it!).

    I bought the bike from my dad way back when, and he said it happened to him once and just re-set the oil filter and that solved it. So I'm hoping it's that -- I also hope somebody here can offer their experience / advice on this issue. It's the single biggest problem with the bike.

    To get it going, I'm planning on:
    1. Compression test (we will do this). I heard Yamaha uses a weird cylinder-linking system that requires a special tool to block the linkage? Is this true?
    2. Carb cleaning (re-jetting necessary?)
    3. Assuming compression test is good, carb syncing (at a shop)
    4. Replace break handle (hoping this is trivial)
    5. Ride into the sunset.

    What else should I look for? Any idiosyncrasies I should be aware of off the bat?

    My original plan was to rebuild the motor, new gaskets and all, but after talking to my dad he recommended pretty strongly against doing all that if it's unnecessary - it's a whole new can of worms and might be out of my league.

    Sorry for the super long post. This community has got to be the best resource out there.

    Looking forward to joining the community. :) Thanks for your help!

    Tom
     
  2. nelkindotnet

    nelkindotnet Member

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    Not sure if you have access to the Haynes manual, but I found mine really helpful with going through the check list it provides on making your bike "Road Ready." If you don't have one, I know you can pick one up for like 20 bucks online. Sorry if this post didn't help at all. :)
     
  3. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    Re: Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :

    Welcome. Here's my $0.02. Others should be alnog shortly.

    Your oil leak sounds like a leaking filter cover. It seals with an O-ring Change the oil and filter first.

    To answer your questions:
    1. Yes. Some Models have YICS which is a small hole in the head to balance intake pressues. Wouldn't have much effect on a comression test I don't think. Needs blocked for carb synching.
    2. Cleaning - look for the write up by Rick in the FAQ section.
    3. You can synch your own. The tool can be built cheaply. Search for "two bottle synch tool"
    4. Chacal (user name) is our local parts man he can help you out. Or ebay. Or someone may have on in the for sale section.

    Check the rear brakes for delamination. Change all fluids and get you some new tires.

    Then number 5. Unless you run into problems.
     
  4. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    Awesome, thanks iwingameover and nel! It's much appreciated.

    Hopefully she won't require an expensive and unlikely overhaul (unlikely to ever be done!).
     
  5. harwell

    harwell New Member

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    Good to see there are a few XJ owners in Ontario... There are a handful in Toronto I have seen riding ... my son and I ride 2 of 3 Seca 550s in the city both white if you spot us. You dont say if your motor turns over... ? I bought a parts bike that had been sitting for 10 years and the cylinders were seized with rust inside the barrels and was a bugger to strip down and clean up. most likely your carbs will have a lining of gas residue like a varnish that sticks to everything - a major clean will fix it, and most likely the enrichment jets will be clogged as they have weeney little holes in them and are hard to remove... also wheel bearings get a little seized as well ..+. good luck with the prep work - the weather is looking great
     
  6. Hack

    Hack Member

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    Re: Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :

    If the leak is coming from the oil filter housing, new Fram filters (available at Canadian Tire) come with a fresh set of O-rings. When I started my bike this spring, it was leaking oil really badly down the front of the machine. It turns out that I didn't install the valve cover gasket properly when I did my shim adjustment...once I put it in properly the leak stopped. Have a look there, too.

    Speaking of which, make sure the valves are in spec. BigFitz did a great write-up here. Until the valves are properly adjusted it's difficult if not impossible to tune the rest.

    Chacal has all the parts you will need, and special tools as well. Shipping to Canada is not a problem.

    Welcome aboard!
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    harwell Oh wow somebody with all three. (I only have two of the 3 MY's 550 Seca.)

    shnuffy OK, stop right there.

    1. Check rear brake for delamination, GOTTA DO IT. Pull the rear wheel and have a look, please. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html if you read the whole thread it will frighten you into checking.

    2. Tires more than 5 years old need to be replaced, PERIOD. I have a brand new 15-year old set on my 650 that will be going in the dumpster.

    3. Flush and replace front brake fluid, plan on replacing lines, rebuilding caliper (2 seals) and M/C SOON.

    4. That is a chain drive bike. If your chain starts not holding adjustment and "bleeds red" every time you lube it, you will need to replace it. Don't assume "no rust" because you can't see it.

    5. Plan on replacing any gasket you disturb.

    How many miles on it? I can give you a lot better advice armed with that.

    Get a service manual; don't pay any attention to the "Haynes" comments, those shaft driven churls know not of what they speak...

    oh, sorry, I have a shaftie now too... brain back on rails... there isn't a Haynes for the 550 it's Clymer. Your absolute best bet is a factory book AND a Hay.. er Clymer, but the Clymer will do. Anyway, go through ALL of the "maintenance" and don't leave anything out.

    VALVE ADJUSTMENT: The main reason I asked about the miles. 3000 initial, every 5000 afterward. Can't neglect it, especially on a 550. The shortcomings of the Clymer was why I did this: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

    Welcome aboard; you certainly came to the right place. If you need any 550 reference materials, I can probably help. (Take a peek in my gallery.)

    You know what's really cool? Another member (kickaha) just helped ME out, big time.

    Oh, and your oil leak sounds minor. Suspect filter housing o-ring not seated properly is all, betcha.
     
  8. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    Re: Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :

    Wow... this is incredible. Thanks again guys!

    harwell: The engine turns over. Did you guys do any major work to your bikes? Also, who are you insured with? I have a feeling they're gonna take me to the cleaners. For some reason my 27 year old $500 bike is expensive to insure? I'm 24, turning 25 in August. You know people in the states pay obscene(ly low) amounts? Like 100 / yr?

    hack: I surely hope it's the oil filter. My dad had replaced it in the past and had oil fly everywhere. Simple fix was to just re-set the filter to ensure a good seal.

    Fitz: The bike has 24k miles on it.

    1. Looked at your brakes thread. Ya - I'm gonna replace those. Are they relatively easy to replace? I hate drum brakes on cars...
    2. Tires will be replaced.
    3. Brake fluid will be replaced.
    4. I hope the chain is not rusty.
    5. Gaskets: will do. Hope I don't have to open up too much.
    6. Wished you live in Southern Ontario.

    You guys are the bomb.
     
  9. chuckles_no

    chuckles_no Member

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    Another oil leak area (and a sneaky one at that) is the tach cable assembly. The gaskets there are probably shot but on two of these motors so far I have had a nice oily mess from just that.
    The rear brake shoes are about the easiest brakes in the world to replace. Make sure you use a brake part lubrication for the springs, pin, and cam. I know this guy (we'll just call him, umm... me) who used some good ol' grease from a grease tube. Bad... very bad.
    Just change those shoes. They are cheap and those old ones are ready for delamination. Listen to every word fitz has to say about delamination.
     
  10. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Re: Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :

    1, 2, 3: Good.
    4: They're cheap, replace both sprockets too when it's time.
    5: Once again, cheap, and a lot of them can be re-used once replaced.
    6: I'm a whole 165 miles away.

    You didn't mention valve clearances; if they haven't been done you are WAY overdue.
     
  11. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    Re: Going to finally get my XJ550 on the road, need advice :

    Thanks Fitz. I stayed up later than I wanted last night reading through the whole valve clearance thread. I will be doing that, too!

    First glance at the thread and I thought I was over my head with that, but reading it again and then looking at everybody's responses it's really quite a straightforward concept to understand! Your write-up is tremendous.

    One question, what is the concept behind the shim? In my brain, the cam lobe presses against the shim which opens the valve the appropriate amount (based on shim thickness). How does a solid plate (shim) open a valve? I'm a little foggy on the concept here.

    Thanks again, I'm getting very excited to get started on this!
     
  12. iwingameover

    iwingameover Active Member

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    The shim takes up the space between the valve and the cam lobe. As the cam bearings wear the lobe gets closer to the top of the valve. The valve needs a smaller shim in order to close properly. Too thick of a shim would cause the valve to stay open partly all the time.
     
  13. shnuffy

    shnuffy Member

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    On the intake valve, would this would lead to a lean running bike? And on the exhaust this results in lack of power as the piston can't compress to it's full potential?

    Is this close? I guess an open intake would still lead to compression issues...

    Thanks for bearing with me - still and forever learning!
     

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