Guess what I'm going to do this weekend...

Yepp, that's an m-unit. Check out how small...
Also ordered a wiring kit. Not cheap but gives me color coded wires in correct gauget etc

 

Make teeny weeny shackles for the mice in your garage?


and smoke.

 

Yes, but not in that order

 

mmmm have a smoke?

 

When rewiring a bike from scratch, this comes automatically. (Un)fortunately I don't drink.

 

Ooo! Ooo! Mr. Kotter! Mr. Kotter!

You're going to scatter electrical terminals all over the garage floor.

 

OK - I literally Laughed Out Loud at this.

That is something I would see myself doing - setting the tray open on the edge of something inappropriate and then Ooops! Catapulting tiny things everywhere!

 

The last two times I worked on my XJ in the garage I knocked my socket set tray on the floor. They roll everywhere and under everything.

I also catapulted a spring from my gas cap latch into the darkness...later my wife found it on the laundry room floor, must have been in my clothes somewhere.

 

Where'd you get the wiring kit? Just last night I was looking for something with correct color-coded wires. After I get my carbs taken care of, I'll replace the fusebox and fix the PO's bypass for the main fuse. Then, I'll also be moving the rear turn signals to the license bracket to make a little more room for saddle bags.

 

I bought it at revival cycles where I got the m-unit.
But I have seen the same kit on amazon, dime cycles etc. But not cheap. It's 80 bucks. But since I am doing everything from scratch, it's worth it to have all the different colors.

 

I can live with that. I'm cursed with the gene that hates half-a**ing things. Or, as one of my favorite t-shirts says, "Fast! not Half Fast!"

 

That's the spirit. And I think there is plenty for future jobs.
Tbh, 80 is ok considering how much money just one roll of one color is at an auto parts store.

Here the url:
https://revivalcycles.com/collections/featured-products/products/revival-cycles-deluxe-cable-kit

Check the specs tab, it lists length and gauge.

I also ordered plenty of heat shrink. Should be fun.

 

Shrink tubing and a hair drier, on the bus . . . . FZ

 

Hope it goes well. I need to do the same. The previous owner removed the spedo and tac on my seca( which im ok with i think there kinda ugly) and made a horrible mess of the wiring. I can barely tell what is what.

 

Yeah. I recently bought those little guys and they make wiring so much easier:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197NFYOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V3U3ybDCFTYXH

Heat shrink to cover and you're good to go. Don't even notice bc they are as thick as wire itself.

Good site:
http://www.colorado.edu/physics/EducationIssues/podolefsky/electric_motorcycle_howto_wiring.html

 

uhg.. I should just bring my bike to you when it comes to my wiring!

 

It's just practice and patience. Oh and the right tools. And enough cigarettes or beer like some people prefer.
I'm ok now with following diagrams etc but still need help from forum when it comes to actually troubleshooting stuff. But I'm learning and this forum is a great teacher.

 

Smokes or beer not both. I Forget which beer can is the ashtray

 

Ever thought about that maybe people having a beer or two while wiring is the cause of that?

 

Have a complete brain fart, as they say...

The cable from starter solenoid to starter motor....
That needs to go to the circled bolt, no?
And ground is built in?

Never had any doubts before, but for the last two days I just can't put it together how it was connected. I am 95% sure, but prefer to check with you.

 

Yep. Thats the positive

 

Thanks, I was certain of it but wanted double check before I break something.

Spent a long time identifying stuff and reading diagrams to see what I can remove, what needs to stay. Putting everything together will be easier now that I know what goes where and how.

Unfortunately, I only managed to extend my control wires. But it's OK, taking my time and have peace of mind later.

BTW, took me 20 mins to get the old crimp connectors out of the connector housing on the rectifier wiring. The load wire melted a bit into the plastic. But all fixed now, new crimps are on. I'll do that for every connector on the bike. Only makes sense since I have everything apart anyway.

That baby will be as good as new, considering that the engine is super low miles too (I'm actually thinking it is brand new)

 

Still wiring in progress but I do have to say that the wiring kit was well worth the money. Having all the different colors makes it so much easier.

 

Cool thing is that the wires all plug into the m-unit. So finishing that is easy. Just need to splice in the dashboard indicator lights.
Up front I am still waiting for my new push buttons. But wires are already there.

 

Quick question about the neutral switch:
All it really does is open or close the connection to ground, correct?
So I should run power to the dashboard light and from there, the ground wire runs through the neutral switch. And light will only go on if the neutral switch closes the ground connection. Ja?

 

The alloy on the frame is so pretty. Oh to be able to weld like that, looks like a stack of dimes.

 

Ya.

 

Bike is all wired now. Had some issues with turns not working but it turned out my cheapo turn signal no longer worked and had nothing to do with wiring.
Now I need to finish up my newly designed tail frame in order to put the m-unit underneath the seat and finalize everything. Bike actually looks much nicer in person...



Better flow with tire. It's 1 inch chromoly and not going anywhere when done.

 

[QUOTE="Good site:
http://www.colorado.edu/physics/EducationIssues/podolefsky/electric_motorcycle_howto_wiring.html[/QUOTE]

Noah Podolefsky was the one who inspired me to build my electric gsx-r. Really cool guy and very helpful.

 

You have an electric gsxr? Electric as in runs on batteries?

 

Everything test hooked up and working. Bike started up on the first button push. Only had to fix my turn signal indicator light on dashboard. I previously hooked up the wrong wire. All fixed now and finished it off with two diodes (one from each turn signal) to go into a single indicator light.
This little box of black magic (m-unit) is great. The universal starter solenoid was worth the money too. It comes with an integrated fuse and 4 pins (2 fused, 2 unfused).

 

Still need to draw up the new wiring diagram for future reference for me or any future owner.

 

Frame done, need to build a new seat now plus have some anchor point welded on. Almost there

 

Seat is back from upholstery.
Frame is now with fabricator to attach a few mounting points, drill holes for switches and paint it

 

done and all is working. needs detailing now.
i think my coolant system is acting up a bit. it is constantly pushing out coolant (water for now) but not sucking it back in. it may be the cap. it is original and worked, but it is on the replacement filler. possible that is my issue. anyway, still checking that. when i open the filler cap on hot bike, i should get a hissing sound but i dont. air leak somewhere.

here pics of the bike. rides like a charm

 

Nice upholstery work - and that headlight looks pretty cool.

 

Thanks.
I wired it to turn the halo on and off. It's bright enough to serve as running light during daytime.
The m-unit allows to turn regular headlight off.
Tried taking pics of halo, but it's too bright for it

 

Thanks Moe, I was thinking that at first too.
The only place for one to form is below the thermostat. I did fill up fluid before connecting the thermostat to hose, but possible that was not enough. I'll do some research on how to fix this

 

So...
Opened the filler cap and let bike idle keeping an eye on the temperature.
It pushed out coolant like crazy. When giving it throttle, coolant would drop, back (coolant) comes right back up when idling.
At some point, the thermostat opens. I can actually see the coolant disappear and the temp on my display drop.
So while the engine was running, I topped her off and closed the cap. Then turned off bike.

So good so far?
I will let the bike cool down and repeat this procedure. Let me know in case I am doing something wrong
Thanks

 

That's what I'd have done. I deleted my comment about a bubble in the system because I wanted to think it through a bit more. If there were a leak or a hole you'd see (and likely hear) coolant being evacuated from the system. If here were a bubble the system should eliminate that during when the engine is sitting as the coolant is drawn back into the system from the overflow tank (but that dosen't always happen). I'm really thinking that you are correct about the cap not sealing properly. It is possible for the cap to allow enogh pressure to build that coolant needs to escape to the overflow as it expands, but also have a small enough leak that low presssure can't form in the system as it cools.

 

OR...
I switched the T-connector around...
Original setup, the return enters on top.


In my new setup, it comes from below. I was thinking it would be ok since it would push it up into the radiator...


I think it should not really matter as the cap blocks the overflow unless it opens, correct?
So fluid should still get back into radiator.
Thoughts?

I'll check the cap tomorrow. For testing, I can use the one that came with the replacement filler (T-connector). Even though I don't know what pressure it is laid out for.

 

I ordered a new cap and will test again when the part is here. Mine was ripped in two spots.
I'll keep you posted.

 

After a long time of coolant spill issues, it is finally fixed.
It was air in the system hat i just could not get out. I fixed it by drilling a tiny hole into the thermostat that serves as an air bleeder.
No more spills and no more feeling the fluid bubble inside the upper radiator hose. Temp was cooler in general too. I am still running distilled water, but I can now finally use regular coolant.