Header Pipe Removal

I know this subject has been covered quite a bit, but I can't seem to find the threads that I've read before.

I am pulling my exhaust off - replacing it with a used one that I bought. I heated up each of the bolt heads that hold the exhaust to the engine head and have successfully removed 5 of 8. One of them snapped off and two of them are proving difficult to get to.

A couple of questions:
1. The bolt head that snapped - I feel like there is enough sticking out that I will be able to get a hold on it and turn it. Will I be able to pull that post out of the engine and replace it, or do I need to take the entire head into a machine shop?
(trying to attach a picture)

2. Those two that I can't get at, any suggestions regarding what tools I should use on those?

 

First thing I'd use on 'em is some Kroil: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ because it really does work when nothing else will.

For those hard to reach manifold nuts, I use a six-point 10mm 1/4" drive socket on a long extension; put the socket on the nut and then plug the extension into it. The thin extension will reach past the frame rails. They aren't all that tight to begin with; you're mainly fighting the rust.

Once you get the whole system off, soak that broken stud with Kroil and then see if you can get it loose. This is a place where the "heat and wax" trick might work too.

 

Excellent. Thank you. I have been using kroil on all of these and it has certainly done the trick (aside from the one that snapped, obviously).

A follow-up:
What should I use to grab ahold of the stud? Will locking pliers work, or is there a better tool?

 

I use a 10mm open ended spanner to get to a couple of those hard to reach nuts... Nothing else will get in there.

 

I had one of those snap off on me last summer. I was able to get it out with a pair of vice grips. Mine might have been the exception to the rule, but it came out pretty easily.

 

Ok, struggling with the stud, but I'm sure it'll come loose in a bit (soaking it in Kroil as we speak).

Going to be spending a couple of days getting everything good and clean and pretty-lookin'.

Any suggestions of things to do while I have the exhaust off?

1. The exhaust that I got is used, so there are a couple of dings and scratches. Considering wrapping the headers. I've heard debates on both sides of this one - makes it too warm / looks cool. Any ideas?

2. There seems to be a bit of oil (not a lot, but enough to notice) coming from the head. Should I worry about this?

3. Chacal sells a "6 mm stud extractor" for 39.95. Should I invest in this to get the stud out correctly? Will I EVER use it again?

 

bump

 

I would try to use the stub of the bolt (if it's still there) as long as possible to remove bolt. If it breaks off flush then drilling and extracting are you first options. Be patient and "aggressively" gentle in your efforts. Broken bolts are a PITA

 

Try tapping the broken stud with a hammer first. That should losen it up before trying to unscrew it out of the head.

 

Ok. Still having trouble getting the stud out.

I've heated it.
Soaked it in Kroil.
Heated it and held a candle to it (to get the wax in there).

Each time, I go at it with vice grips, and the thing doesn't BUDGE.

I have not tried welding something on to the end to turn. I don't have a welder and - honestly - don't know anyone in the area that does. So that's going to be a pain in the ass. Not to mention that the location (behind the frame) compounds the difficulty.

I'm beside myself. I can't seem to get this damn thing out of the engine. Any other suggestions?

 

Worst case scenario, look in the yellow pages for a local "Mobile" welding company. Explain your problem but expect that for a job this small they will either make you pay through the nose, or you may luck out and find a brother rider/welder that works for one of these places.
You could also ask at your local bike shop if they know of anyone.
A good welder that knows his stuff should be able to get a solid tack weld on a nut and then do the Kroil thing again, though when the nut is welded on it should generate enough heat for you to carefully back the stud out, but don't start wrenching while the thing is still cherry red.
Just make sure that you disconnect the battery and as a back up, pull the connectors on your electronics just to make sure nothing gets fried.
All I can say is good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

Carefully heat the area around the stud with a propane torch, then touch the candle to where the stud meets the head and hope some melted wax gets drawn in, or "re-Kroil" it. Make sure you have a really good bite with the vice-grips and just "wiggle" on it, it should break loose. A candle alone won't impart enough heat to the metal to do any good.

OR, order up some of the broken-stud dissolving stuff, this is a perfect example of when it might do the trick: http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=574