HELP. My Bike wont hold a charge, the battery is good

The bike (1982 xj550) wont holed a charge very long and is always dead when i try to start it. I have jump started it a few times but couldn’t keep it running to long. So I had just trickle charged it for a few hours (after which it started fine) Then went dead on me after a short drive around the block.
On the drive the bike cut off on my two times and started right back up, the third time it didn’t have enough juice to start again… but started fine with a jump…

I found that there is a continual draw of .09 from the rectifier/regulator (when the bike is off / no key in ignition.) I guess this is why the bike goes dead so fast when its just sitting in my shed.

I don’t know what to do or where to go next...

Do i get a new alternator? (is that the problem?)

 

I'm not much on electrics but here's a link to some good info. and diagnostics.

http://xjbikes.com/Web_Links/l_op=visit/lid=29.html

 

Your rectifier shouldn't be pulling any current with the key out. When the bike is running, how much voltage is being read across the battery? You should see at least 13.8 volts or somewhere thereabouts. Any less and I'd say your rectifier is unhappy. Coupled with the current draw info, I'd say with 99% certainty, you need a new regulator.

 

i will have to give the bike a jump start...

but the reading with it not started from terminal to terminal is 11.5
i dont know if that means anything or not...

I'll go try and get it started and post back with what its at now...

My dad said... It could be the alternator if the altinator has a bad diode in it... he said to ask if the diodes are in the altinator or in the regulator on this bike?

 

I don't have the book on your 550, I only have the 650's and 750's so all my points of reference are from that neck of the woods. They should be similar. On the 650's and 750's the alternator and regulator are separate assemblies with the diodes in the regulator. Your battery charge at rest (no load, keys off) should be about 12.5 volts. If you have a load tester available, I'll bet your battery is on it's last legs. I would also encourage you to get your hands on the new XJCD that is listed at the top of the page in the XJ Chat section. $10 well spent and packed with all kinds of info you could use. I'm getting one myself. You also should invest in a book on your beast to help you maintain and troubleshoot problems.

 

thank you!

ok i tested it terminal to terminal with the bike running...

it was at 12.2 - 12.5

when i rev the bike it jumps up to 13 - 14 then comes back down to just above 12 when i let it idle again...

so i guess this .09 draw on the battery when the bike is complealtly off stems from the regulator? and i need to get a new one for it?

-- yeah i do need to get that CD! i was wondering if there are plans to put out a new one... i thought i read something about it but at 10$ i might as well order one this week when i get my pay check

 

The new version 4 has just been released in the last couple weeks and is available for purchase now.
Just check the links section for how to order.

 

Your voltages are right were they should be and indicate a good generator and regulator. Your current drain is the diode block going bad. If it is a separate unit, I would replace just that. If they are integrated, your up a creek, a new regulator will be needed. Best I can do without the schematics for your type Aschulhoff. I hope this has been some help. Good luck to you and get a book as soon as you can! Write back and let us know how things pan out.

 

you could always cheat and install a battery cutoff switch like we have on the tractors. Technically those are ground switches, but you could nix the power with a switch preventing battery drain while you're not using it..



easy fixes are often bad ideas... this is a bad idea as it doesn't solve your problem it hides the annoying not starting symptom.

 

haha yeah... i did the non technical verssion of that... i just unhook a terminal when i put it in the shed lol... but it doesnt keep my battery from going dead while i'm driveing it problem... so e-bay new regulater here i come

 

Used electrical components are a crapshoot. Be weary of them and ask if they have a return policy for non-functional purchases. Most bike wrecking yards will offer this guaranty.

 

How old is the battery by the way?

 

i got the battery at the end of this past summer... its not even a year old..

do you think that even though it reads as a good battery it might be a big part of the problem? should i just replace it to?

thanks for the heads up rob... I was going to buy a regulator for $24.00 plus $5 shipping on e-bay but now i'll probably go with one of the $35 to $40 ones that have a guaranty... but i think e-bay is my only option for the part around here.

 

Sounds like your better off with the cost, and $40 ain't too bad at all (new ones are three times the cost). Did you leave the battery on a trickle charger over the winter? If you don't service the battery at least two or three times a month during storage, you can bet that the plates have sulphidated and the battery is a doorstop. Do a load test on the battery and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. I'm going to bet your battery is toast. Save up for a new one ($40 from Exide).

 

If you take it to a store (Canadian tire around here, NAPA maybe) they can do a free load test... in the hopes that they'll get to sell you a new one.

A battery that is charged won't freeze, however, if it loses it's charge it can freeze... funny things happen like Robert said and it'll die a premature death.

 

Before I laid out any cash, I'd find out where the amp draw was coming from. If I were you, I'd open up the fuse box and pull each fuse, one at a time to see if I could find out what part of the wiring the load was on, then narrow it down from there. I had a machine a few years ago (portable diesel compressor) that kept flattening its battery. Even isolating it with a battery switch did not help. It turned out that a faulty oil pressure switch was stuck closed, allowing a back feed from the battery even when it was shut off. By first isolating the offending branch circuit, you can then narrow down the faulty component and replace it. Worth trying before buying.

 

I had the battery load tested at Advanced auto parts and it came up ok after having to charge it and test it again... I'll likely just get a new one anyway and have it off the list of possible problems.

I did go threw and pull one fuse at a time and the draw stopped when i pulled the main fuse. After asking around on here i went back and disconnected the regulator and tested it again, the draw stopped... so i figured the problem was probably there... But i suppose that might not be the most accurate way to test it? i don’t really know.

 

If the draw stopped on the main fuse then you've gotten a start on finding the problem.

If the battery load tested ok and just needed a charge then I think you're fine there. You *SHOULD* be fine with it at only 1 year old.

That test sounds accurate enough to me... I suppose you could check wires from it for current or chauffing...

 

I would hold off on replacing the battery if the load test was good. Get the book on your bike and use the regulator check out sheet to ohm it out. I'll try Nick's trick to photograph the page for you from my Haynes, hopefully tonight.

 

ahh that would be really awesome rob! thank you

i'm going to look around on e-bay / google and try to order the book...
I'm going to order that CD now sounds like its going to be a lot of help.

(this was the responce i got when i asked the seller on e-bay if the regulator was in good working order.)

"Hello, the rectifier came off of a running bike, which doesn't necessarily mean the charging system was working. Unfortunately I do not have the specs to ohm the rectifier. If you have the spces and could share them I would run a static diagnostic.
The side of the connector is actually missing, which can be seen in the photo. All of the connector pins are securely in place. Please ask if you have more questions. Thanks Doug"

 

Ding ding, we have a winner! I'd be running the other way so fast...

 

So i ordered a regulator / rectifier off e-bay with a guarantee... I’m just waiting for it to come in so I can test it on the bike…

but after i ordered it i saw another auction for a regulator / diode
i found that this part is up by the head light on the bike... Some one told me the diodes were in the regulator/rectifier on my bike... but do you think that maybe the regulator/diode piece is what i should be changing or is this for something else likely not related to my power draining problem?

the regulator/rectifier i ordered should be here this weekend. so i will try that and hope it fixes the problem.. but if not, and you guys think this regulator/diode block might be the problem, i'll test it and order a new one of those...

thanks for the help guys... i wish my bike didnt decide to take a dump on me right at the start of summer... i'm dieing to go out for a ride.

 

I think I mentioned that they may be separate in an earlier post. Again, I'm not familiar with the 550's. I apologize if I lead you astray, that was not my intention. It may well be the diode block is bad, but I don't have your book and can only provide generalities. Anyone else out there 550 savy? Getting yourself the book on your bike or the XJCD should be on your list of things to obtain. Hope you nail it with the "new" regulator.

 

my XJCD should be here within the week!!! i also baught the book off ebay... should be here withint the week as well...

if i end up not needing the regulator i bought, it will be nice to have it on the shelf for when/if i do end up needing it... and if nothing else i'll just sell it back on e-bay.