Help with Clutch Issues

So I adjusted clutch cables as per Rick-o-matic detail. The bike still cluncks in and out of all gears. And until the bike has been running for 20 minutes or so, I have redlight creep.

Are there tests to determine if a clutch replacement is in order before I go openning stuff up?

 

try turning the lever adjuster out about one turn
new clutch plates are thicker so it may drag more
the 20 min warmup part may have something to do with the oil getting thinner
thick oil will make a clutch drag

 

If you have a Brand New Clutch ... adjust the Clutch Lever Pull to almost NO Free play at all. I ride with Zero Free Play.

If I need to make an adjustment ... it's as easy as pie.

Just tweak the Knurl on the Perch for more or less slack as needed.

 

I find on my clutch there is a very narrow zone of proper function.

Tighten a bit and it doesn't grab until very end of travel when hot.

Loosen a bit and it is a bitch getting into neutral, clunks and creeps until very warm.

 

Me too.

I hate Neutral fight.
It's been in the 90's around here.

I pity the 750 Boys with no oil cooler.

 

what if a guy was to put another hole in the clutch lever arm closer to the shaft
heaver clutch pull but more overall travel
maybe this weekend

 

You get the same effect by just taking another notch back on the splined rod.

 

i don't know how to explain it but it works
link
where the arm is makes no difference, within reason

 

The Yamaha Engineers did the Trig on the situation when the bike was still a blueprint.

You need to START with the Rod already tight to the Throwout Cam.
Hook-up the Cable keeping tension on the the Rod.
Move the WHOLE Cable buy adjusting where it is on the bracket,
Push the Sheath tight into the Knurl ... upstairs.
Tighten the lower end.
With tension on the Rod ... work-out the slack in the cable.

That's all there is to it.
The Knurl on the Perch is the fine adjustment.

Trigonometry is helpful.
That's how you can tell how many male Papooses the Indian Squaw will have by knowing that the three Tee-Pees were close together and the first squaw had two male papooses on Buffalo Hide ... and, the next squaw had three male papooses on the Elk Hide ... you automatically know that the third Squaw had three male papooses and she slept on Hippopotamus hide ... why?

Because the sons of the Squaw on the Hippopotamus is equal to the sons of the two Squaw's on the other hides!

 

Not sure where the new clutch came from, but I don't have a new one. It's still the original. I'll do some more cable adustments tonight and see, but I'm pretty confident it's adjusted to it's max.

 

Don't let it slip and get worse.

The damage is not to the Friction Pads (Which wear out over time anyway) But the steel Driven Plates can take a Beating from just a short time of slippage. Then, you'll need a whole Clutch Kit in there.

 

this should pretty much end clutch drag and get all the free play i want
about 15% more travel, don't tell the yamaha engineers

 

polock, how well is that working for you?

 

There should have been a warning on that trigg link. I'm all messed up now. I don't know What link was worse trama to me, The "live to ride - Ride to ( you know what) or seeing that toppics in trigg. I've seen them both today 8O

 

works good so far ,no road test yet
3mm free play and gets neutral from 1st or 2nd
test ride tonight

 

Excellent. Let me know how it turns out. I've adjusted, and adjusted, but they clunking stays.

 

it's a keeper, the bolt head needed the letters filed off for clearance on a case
bolt, about 1/64"
the return spring almost interferes with the cable keeper thing so keep the holes close together, i went for 1/16 web between the holes and got like .08
maybe jumped one spline back on the arm, but i'am not sure
neutral is easier to get and it still has 3mm slack
if there is something wrong with the clutch this aint gona fix it but adjustment
sure is a lot less critical