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Help with Muriatic acid flush

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Ribo, Jul 4, 2015.

  1. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    I'm planning a Muriatic acid flush for the XJ550 seca tank I've had on the shelf for a year.

    Anyone got any advice. I want to use the muriatic cos I have it already left over from when I used to have a swimming pool. I figure i just pour a cup in there and slosh it around for 10 mins right? What can I do with it afterwards and do I need to do anything to the tank after that before I put gas in it?
     
  2. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    The acid will strip everything and tank will start to rust again very quickly.
    I suggest doing the Por15 tank clean and seal kit. Have also use Kreem as well with good results. Por does come out looking better as sealer is a grey colour rather than the slightly white of the Kreem product. Check with Chacal on this product.
     
  3. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Ignorant of me to say this because I've never used Por15 but I'd give it the acid treatment then a quick seafoam bath (love the product line) to prevent it from flashing. If there are any potential leaks the acid will surely find them. Wear gloves and a mask cause as you know that sh!t aint no joke. Reusable Evaporust works well too ($25gal @ O'Reilly) and "NO"...I've never worked there.

    Gary H.
     
  4. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    I can't find a link online to Por15 clean and seal - I see a repair kit for $90 but that's all - I wouldn't mind using something more environmentally friendly and easier to handle that for sure but I'm also tighter than a nun's chuff so a $7 acid flush seems viable.
     
  5. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg
    Like new paint products it's water based have you checked AutoZone or O'Reilly's it's only 70$ in canada
    its a water based product . Have you checked AutoZone or Napa? It $70 canadian
     
  6. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    gotcha - thanks - still pricey - I got the tank from Fitz a while back and he said that it just needed an phosphoric acid flush but I can't find that so I figured muriatic would work. I figured I'd do a seafoam/motor oil bath after to stop any flash rush.
     
  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Phopshoric acid leaves a rustproof coating on the inside of the tank. It's usually sold as a rust converter, so you'll have to read some labels or order it online. Tannic acid does the same thing. Muriatic acid is just a diluted hydrochloric acid, and if you have any thin areas in the tank (or leave it in for too long) you will end up with holes in the tank.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2015
  8. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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    aha! Well that makes sense then.
     
  9. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    And hydrochloric acid.....even the diluted kinds.....are nasty stuff. Meaning: full body covering, and preferably a respirator.

    Phosphoric acid is much safer. I think they sell it at ACE Hardware, among other places.
     
  10. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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  11. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    If you don't plan to use the tank right away, I would use some fogging oil or similar. Not a bad idea to use some anyway, to protect the "upper" inside surfaces, even if it is filled with fuel.
     
  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    +1 The Phosphoric acid will stop the rust that is in there, but it will not prevent new rust from forming in other areas.
     
  13. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Phosphoric acid will clean the metal, eat the rust, and leaves an iron phosphate coating which will inhibit rust for a period of time...
     
  14. EarMachine

    EarMachine Member

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    Sorry to steal the thread, where would you buy this in Canada? I've been looking but to no avail.
    Thanks,
    -EM
     
  15. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    Check with local university chem department they will know where to get it.
    Can check with friend that works at industrial supply company and get back to you
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2015
  16. EarMachine

    EarMachine Member

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    That'd be great. I'm in a pretty small town near a military base. 2.5 hours away from Ottawa, Ontario.
    Thanks,
    -EM
     
  17. Ribo

    Ribo Prefectionist

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  18. EarMachine

    EarMachine Member

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  19. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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  20. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  21. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    Company called Novamax in Markham
     
  22. EarMachine

    EarMachine Member

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    I'm leaning more towards electrolysis now.
    -EM
     
  23. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That method has quite a few advantages, but the tank will need to be fogged with oil, or lined right after being rinsed out or rust will begin forming right away.
     
  24. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Check this out:
     
  25. EarMachine

    EarMachine Member

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    Lol that's awesome. That's the video I watched a week or so ago that made me a bit more confident with the electrolysis.
    My tank wasn't that bad at all, I started it yesterday at around 6 and checked on it a few times to make sure it was working properly. Then left it overnight and this morning my tank looks great!
    Threw a mix of gas and wd40 in for now.
    One suggestion to anyone watching that video. Don't use a coat hanger. Way too weak and after using it for electrolysis it can break apart, which could leave remnants in your tank.
    If I do it again I will get a scrap piece of wood with a hole drilled through it and a larger piece of steel as my anode.
    Otherwise I highly recommend this method as long as you are confident your sacrificial anode is properly suspended in your tank!

    -EM
     
  26. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    The youtube poster above is Max Storey. By no means a purist, he is able to get some pretty crappy bikes to roll again. A bit of a wild man, but I've learned a lot from him. Another good link to him:
    http://www.themotorcyclemedic.com/run.html
    A pretty good site for getting junk bikes to work. He seems to be a nice guy too, restoring bikes to sell for charities and so on. I might be a fan!
     
    EarMachine likes this.

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