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Help with rear axle removal

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Gerrypw, Aug 14, 2008.

  1. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    OK it has been 23+ since the rear axle has been removed. Any suggestions on how to get it off? It comes out of the everything except for the very last part on the brakes. Is there a technique or a tool that might make it come off? I really need to switch out the bald tire before it flies apart.

    I have used some wd40 and a mallet so far...
     
  2. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Oh! I forgot. Its a 85 XJ700XN.
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    The end of the axle is dimpled.
    Take a length of metal rod to the grinder and grind a dull point to mate with the dimple on the axle.

    Run the rod in and find the dimpled center of the axle.
    Apply impact to the rod.
    You may have to "See-saw" impact.

    Drive the axle out.
    If it hangs-up ... tape it back in.
    Drive it out ... tap it in ... until it gets past the rust ridge holding it from releasing.

    After you get the axle out ... do some prevent so you won't have to fight with it again.
    Sand it down to bare metal using 320 Sand Paper
    Continue sanding with 400 until all traces of rust are gone from the metal.

    Coat the whole axle with a liberal amount of AntiSeize Compound.
     
  4. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    I pounded the tar out of it! I sprayed some penetrating oil on it. It there some tool that makes this easier like...a jack hammer!
     
  5. chadwickm

    chadwickm Member

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    This has always worked for me in the past! I used the metal rod that came with my HF MC tire changer.
     
  6. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Thanks! I give it a harder try. I'll let y'all know.
     
  7. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    I had a wee bit of trouble taking the rear tire off my 750 Maxim. Went down to the shop where I was going to get the tire and asked the guy's advice. His reply:

    "Use a bigger hammer."

    Rather than use a metal rod to bang on, I used a piece of wooden dowel, so as to avoid mushrooming the end of the axle. I don't know if mine was hung up as badly as yours appears to be, but with some harder whacks, out it came.
     
  8. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    you might want to drive it back through and do the sand paper thing what Rick said and try again
     
  9. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Still no luck. I am using a rod at the end of the bolt. It has not budged any. I can see thru a small slot between the brakes and the plate. Not a lot of rust there but it seems to be enough to hold everything tight. I've already shot the lube thru to where the axle passes thru.
     
  10. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    im not sure, but can you use a slide hammer with a hook on the end of the axle, thats always worked for me.
     
  11. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Can I try turning the rod? Is suposed to be able to turn? Will that loosen it?
     
  12. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    I doubt you'll turn it, knock it back & forth, it will move eventually.
     
  13. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Sure. Rotate it.

    I have a feeling the Axle shaft has "Cold Welded" itself to the Inside Diameter of a Wheel Bearing.

    You can also try adding some Heat to the Axle.

    Propane is probably not going to be able too get the mass of the Rear Axle hot enough.
    You might have to try MAPP Gas.

    Be prepared to have to replace a Bearing or two.
    If you are having this much trouble getting the Axle out; moisture or time has not been kind to your rear end components.

    Before you pull all your hair out; do a jswag5 suggested.
    Slugging Hammer.
    If your Rear Axle doesn't have a drilled hole in its end ... drill one to use as an anchor point for a bolt to attach the Slide Hammer on to.
     
  14. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    just hit it like you would your mother inlaw HARD
     
  15. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    I was inspired by the last reply so I looked at grimreaper's mother-in-law and smacked it like I was trying to save his life. Its still there...just like his mother-in-law.

    I tried putting a gear extractor on differential side and pound the plate back but like grimreaper's mother-in-law its still there and hasn't budged.
     

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  16. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    I have a hammer just like that
     
  17. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    This is your hammer. Can I borrow your torch?
     
  18. jeepsteve92xj

    jeepsteve92xj Member

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    I had an pivot bolt stick in the rear suspension of a Datsun 280Z. I was pounding with a brass drift, but i could only get flush to the surface. My drift was too large a diameter. Both ends of the bolt were threaded.
    I took a 1/2" coupling nut and ran my 13mm tap into it to modify the threads to (more less) match the bolt threads. That was where I connected my slide hammer.

    slide hammer, coupling nut modified to fit, then the bolt.

    I was also using some heat - with nothing in my way to damage.

    What I didn't have was an anchor. half my energy was lost due to the parts (already unmounted form the car) following me around every time I hammered.

    It did the job, and when I checked the threads I was pulling on, the original nuts spun on and off perfectly.

    Now I know people with machining tools who would make me a better coupler if I asked, but I would give it a try.
     
  19. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    What was the most important factor for you getting it off? If you had to choose one would it be the slide hammer or the heat. I am about the take a torch to it but before I do that my buddy is coming over with an air hammer(mini jack hammer).
     
  20. jeepsteve92xj

    jeepsteve92xj Member

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    the slide hammer is what did the job. the amount mass in the parts took a long time to heat with MAPP gas. I didnt have access to any air tools or big torch. I didnt even have a good way to anchor my parts except to stand on them but I still left a grooved trail in the driveway.

    Some heat and the application of PBBlaster or other penetrant cant hurt before the impact.
     
  21. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I don't think I'd anchor the Extractor to Cast Aluminum.
    You might tear-off a hunk of differential.

    I looked at the Yamaha Schematic.
    You MUST have the axle trapped within that Inner Wheel Bearing.

    I fear that you are not at the point where Heavy Impact is going to do more harm than good.

    I think you ought to start thinking about finding yourself a New or Used Rear Axle and cut-off the one that's refusing to come-out before you drive the Axle with a Wheel Bearing attached right straight through the Brake Housing.

    It's the extreme measure; for sure.
    But, it will get the Wheel off there and let you begin NORMAL repairs without beating-up a Bearing Seat or causing damage to the whole Brake Shoe Outer Assembly.
     
  22. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    when i removed the front tire from my maxim it hung up, but a few whacks with a slide hammer did the trick, if you have access to an air hammer it might me better, its the vibration that the slide hammer and air hammer imparts into the pieces "liquifies" the rust thuslly allowing parts to slide free. a static load like that puller is just gunna cause more problem than its worth.
     
  23. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Air hammer did not work. My brother came over and pulled out a bigger air hammer. This did not work but finally I got it. A horrible headache. I torched it with propane but it was suggested that I use MAPP so I did and you know what. My headache got worse. Which reminds me of a joke.

    What do you call a rusty rear axle, can of propane, a can of MAPP, a gear puller, a can of PB Blaster, an air hammer, and a large mallet?
     

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  24. PSteele

    PSteele Member

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    Hey Gerrypw, I just had mine out and did not have an issue - this is twice in 2 months, one for brakes, one for tire. However, the first time I had the same trouble until I loosened the pinch bolt and then rotated the axle with a hard steel rod with a long box wrench over it.

    Of course, after I posted the first reply, I see you got it. Good going - take Rick's anti-seize tip and your future will be less sweaty.

    What do you call all that stuff? Hmmm. How about $50 that you could have used for fuel? Must be a funnier answer than that out there, eh guys?
     
  25. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Hey! Yo! It's still stuck. What I got was a headache.

    A hard steel rod you say! A long box wrench you say! This will be my last ditch effort then it goes to the shop if they will touch it.

    For some reason I missed your first reply...How bout some details on how you got it off specifically PSteele.
     
  26. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    From the looks of it you needed it out. I would never run a tire that bald. But I ride very hard tho.
     
  27. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    PSteele is the MAN! I haven't got it out yet but it is turning. The washer is loose and can spin freely so it has already moved out a tad. Now I can work it in and out as suggested in the beginning. Thanks buddy.

    Grim have you seen the bike for sell in Atlanta. XJ700N and trailer $800. I can't even afford to get new tires for 19yrs but a good deal.
     
  28. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Does it feel like you have the Middle Wheel Bearing stuck to the Axle Shaft?

    For all the time you are losing and the aggravation piled on-top of things; it might be time to just cut-off that old Axle and install one that isn't going to take a Platoon of Marines to get the darned thing out.
     
  29. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Y'all, it's out! The only hang up was the brake shoe plate. If you can see by the first 2 segments of my finger it is very dark from rust.

    Grim,

    Do you go to Biketoberfest?
     

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  30. jswag5

    jswag5 Member

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    congrats, clean that baby up good, and grease it heavy before you put it back in.
     
  31. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    800 grit paper and yes I do its only 45 miles up the road
     
  32. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Put it in a vice.
    Sandpaper-strip "Shoe-shine" the whole Axle with 800 until it's refinished.

    It does not rotate.
    Grease is OK ... But, since it DON'T rotate ... AntiSeize Compound applied liberally will prevent you from having that fight again!
     
  33. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    This is offically done!
     

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  34. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Thank God!
    I was feeling you pain.
    I thought you were going to have to hire those guys who blow-up buildings and everybody watches them fall-down on TV.

    "Fire in the Hole!"
     
  35. grimreaper169

    grimreaper169 Member

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    Good job and looks good. Whay kind of tire??
     
  36. Gerrypw

    Gerrypw Member

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    Thanks for all your support.

    Grim these tires are Cheng Shin Hi-Max C907(back) and Barracuda(front). Very inexpensive but got good reviews. Rides better than my bridgestones ever did. They are a little softer(the front more) then my last set but stickier. I am afraid they won't last as long. I liked the tread style and it rides well in the rain(you know how the weather has been lately.) I'll let you know how they work out...if I remember.

    I got front and back for under $80. I called the shop to see how much it would cost, they told me $110 for both. That's why this whole discussion started. I learned a lot. It was actually gratifying for a computer nerd to change out these tires.

    I tend to be on the cheap side when it comes to myself.

    Thanks again fellas!
     
  37. PSteele

    PSteele Member

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    Congrats and well done dude! If you can do that job and not break anything, there is likely little else outside your reach with your XJ. These bikes are so easy to work on, even when some portions cause a bit of grief and sweat, it makes owning them a labor of love and appreciation.

    When or more like if they break, because they are pretty reliable in the hands of a good owner, you'll know the cause and what to do.

    Good goin' gerrypw!
     
  38. brent_bastien

    brent_bastien Member

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    i am having the same problem wih my 82 750 seca

    does anybody know if the axle from my 81 550 maxim is the same or not
     
  39. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    82 750 seca part# 4H7-25381-00-00

    81 550 maxim part# 4GO-25381-00-00

    So similar - maybe. Chacal would know for sure.
     

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