How do you torque the header exhaust nuts on an XJ700X?

I've got a bad rattle in my headers, and I removed my exhaust to insert new header exhaust gaskets, hoping that would help (it didn't). I've read that the header exhaust nuts need to be torqued to 7.2, but I can't figure out how that can be done... My service manual doesn't seem to have any info about installing the exhaust, but it does list the torque specification. The problem is, only one side of each collar can be turned with a socket. The other side is too close to a frame or engine piece to use a socket on, and has to be adjusted with a 10mm box wrench.

How much pressure is 7.2 ft/lbs? How do you guys figure it?

TIA!

 

Get yourself a breaker bar for the ring spanner that makes it the same length as your torque wrench. Now find another 10mm bolt (or put one in your vice) and torque it to spec. Get the "feel" of the leverage involved.

Now use the ring spanner and breaker bar and torque the exhaust nut to the same "feel".

By the way - the rattle in you exhaust might be the inner exhaust tubing coming away from the outer wall (they're double walled if it's a stock system).

 

here's a trick i figured out with the good help of my old friend mr. milwaukee (or, old milwaukee as we usually call him)

first - put your wrench on the nut or bolt you want to torque and measure how far it is from the center of the bolt to where you want to press on the wrench. (the wrench needs to be horizontal for this to work btw)

next - use that distance to convert* the desired ft/lbs to the amount of lbs you need to put on the wrench at the spot you measured to.

last - put a bathroom scale on the floor so you can stand on it while you apply force to the wrench. watch how much weight you "lose" while pushing on the wrench - when you've lost the amount of weight you figured you'd need to put on the wrench, you've (more or less) torqued your bolt.

* the conversion is pretty easy: (weight to "push") = (desired ft-lbs)/(measured distance)

 

Remember Jason, the #3 headpipe on the bike I sold you had a cracked inner . I did weld it, it did not give me any problems for a long time. That noise drove me crazy until I found it.

 

Wow, ok... First, not sure how to get a spanner and breaker bar in there, if by spanner, you mean the "C" shaped tool used to remove bicycle bottom brackets and stuff. Each lock ring is held on by two hex nuts.

Skeeter - a bathroom scales? Old Milwaukee? Hmmm... Just kidding. Would that work if I've just got enough room to get my middle finger around that 10mm wrench, and I have to turn it about 15 to 20 degrees at a time? Unless there is some trick that I need to learn, there is just no way to really get to those things without doing some fancy finger work...

Seriously, though... I know this is really subjective, but is there a way to just say, like, 7.2 ft/lbs is strong-finger tight? Or 7.2 ft/lbs is hand-ratchet tight? Or something like that? I've had a few people warn me about over tightening those bolts, so I'm hoping I don't mess things up worse.

Hey Mark, I'm pretty sure the rattle is coming from the #1 header. It seems to be coming from the lower end of #1. I've tightened where it connects to the combiner, but that doesn't seem to help. I'm afearing that it might be the inner pipe. How did you weld it? I was kind of thinking of drilling a hole in the header, and then threading in a short self-tapping screw. That was designer_mike's suggestion. Is welding a reasonably simple solution? Were you able to see the problem when you pulled the header? BTW, I tried to pull the header off when I took the exhaust down to install the new gaskets... It did NOT want to come out. I can see that is going to be a problem when it comes right down to it...

 

Like I said earlier, get your torque wrench and practice on another bolt to get the feel for the torque setting. It doesn't matter what spanner / wrench / box end / grip you use to get to the exhaust nut - just use a similar force and you're in the ball park.

But seriously, it's not a head gasket so it's not that important you get it spot on.

 

I can get a socket on mine.
It has to be a short 1/4" drive with an extension, but it goes on every one of mine. It's VERY close to not coming off of #4 but I've always managed. I think it's a 12 pt....I'm sure it's craftsman. I believe the 6 point has a heavier wall.

 

I use a 1/4-Inch SnapOn Flex Extension and Torque the Nuts down to: 2-Finger Pounds.

 

Err on the gentle side...they have been known to break/strip easily!