how to paint and shine

i got my 85 maxim X, it needs a little paint, engine black and possibly my own tank and side covers ... I would like to know what is the best way to prep and paint the engine (don't want to remove it) and what kind of paint is best, engines do get hot and don't want blistering. Also is there away to shine up the few rusty spots on the exhust and stuff.

Thanks

 

You could try a good polish on the exhaust, I did that with mine and had good results (rust wasn't very bad)

 

If you are looking just to spruce it up a bit, I would wash it real well with some degreaser, and then go over it with a brass wire brush to remove the old loose paint (steel will scratch the aluminum) and give it a bit of a profile. As far as paint, I'm not sure about the Maxim X, but the for the Seca I used to have I always used black BBQ grill paint. It matched the factory paint almost perfectly, and has a higher heat resistance than typical engine paint. Plus, you can find it just about anywhere that sells spray paint. Mask what you don't want black, and if there is something you can't get tape on, a little acetone or adhesive remover on a rag will wipe the overspray right off. Just don't get sloppy with it, or else you'll ruin paint you want to keep. For the rust, some Turtle Wax chrome polish and a brass or copper brillo pad has worked well for me.

 

I freshened up the engine on my '85 Maxim X about every 3 years.I would start by removing the 4 chrome hex fasteners that hold the "fins" to the cylinder head,and remove the fins. Then take some fine steel wool or scotch brite,and lightly scuff the cylinders. Use compressed air or an electric blower to remove any dust or residue.Mask off the valve cover,frame tubes,lower cases,and exhuast {the goal is to get paint only on the cylinder barrels}.Spray with a quality flat barbeque grill paint,or flat black engine enamel. As for the "fins",sand or scuff only the top surface,and the silver edges {to highlight them},then mask all but the top surface.For the these,use a quality high heat gloss black engine enamel,as it will closely resemble the original powder coated finish. After reassembly,it is a good idea to to start the bike and let it run for a short time,let it cool,and repeat this process a few times. This allows the paint to cure gradually,as opposed to overheating and discoloring.You can prolong the time between engine detailing sessions by washing the engine only when it is fully cooled.Don't wash the bike in a car wash...Great for cars, but SATAN to bikes.
Mothers aluminum polish,Simichrome,or similar polishes are great for removing minor to moderate rust,but they will not repair pitting or other damage {although they may make it much less obvious}.
Hope this helps,and best of luck to you!

Dan

 

I just read a similar post and my reply seemed a little snobbish but you really shouldn't paint the top end of an air cooled engine. Bad for heat transferance, the paint acts as an insulator. That is, unless you use Black Body Emitter paint (BBE) sometimes called thermal dispersant paint. A coat of that will actually improve cooling over just bare aluminum. Of course the process for applying it requires heat curing so you have to dismantle the top end to have it done.

My 2 cents worth.

Sorry guys. I just know how these bikes can be in 100 degree weather waiting in traffic or sitting in a border lineup.

 

The X is water cooled, so it runs MUCH cooler than the air-cooled variety.

It is much easier on the paint also. I really doubt it will ever see more than 220 deg F (except around the exhaust)

 

I had no idea it was water cooled. In that case... go to town.

My current XJ650 Maxim build has me concerned with heat as I am taking it to Europe with me this summer and last year in August I don't think there was a day under 35 degrees Celsius (95F) and 43 degrees (110F) is not uncommon. I will be using the BBE paint on the top end and ceramic on the exhaust. I'm hoping this will give me even a few degrees differential from stock. If it's not enough I am seriously considering adding some type of kidney loop cooler to the oil. Of course I may just be paranoid and creating problems that don't exist. Either way I will be collecting some useful data.

 

OK, so I have gotten 90% of the caked up oil that was on the engine cases, and what I want to know is just how pedantic do I need to be in my cleaning? Normally when preparing a surface it's all about the preparation, but I can't image you guys painting with an engine in place can get into the cracks better than I can with my cases split.

Cheers,
oby

 

i've not tried this but maybe next time
http://www.stovepaint.com/Upload/Products/Products1.pdf
now if this paint is any good you could spray it on with a airbrush and get better results than with a can, get the little in back places without running rest, way less overspray