*ignition cut of relay clicking (no spark)

why would the cut off relay click when i add the fuse to the fuse block. its not allowing me to use the start button on the bars.

 

went out and checked again....it clicks as soon as you turn on the key. i even pulled the relay out and still nothing from the starter.

could this have anything to do with replacing the fuse block. i installed a 6 way fuse block.

 

When you first switch a 550 "on" you should hear one relay click. If the relay is not "allowing you" to use the start button, it's because one of its "conditions" isn't met. The safety circuit, when operating correctly, will not let you spin the motor with the bike in gear unless the clutch is in AND the sidestand is up. If it thinks the sidestand is down and in gear, no starter spin. If the sidestand is up, but the bike is in gear, no spin unless the clutch is pulled in. So the neutral switch, sidestand switch, clutch lever switch are all important. However none off those interlocks will keep it from spinning if it KNOWS it's in neutral. So start with the neutral switch, and its wiring. The sidestand switch is often the culprit on a 550, because of how it hangs out in the road spray. If the sidestand switch has failed, the bike will think the stand is always down.

The off/run/off switch on the RH handlebar will keep it from spinning in "off" also, but not have anything to do with the cutoff relay.

This "fuse block" you installed doesn't have a single "+" terminal and then a bunch of fuses off that does it? Because the bike's not wired in such a way that it will work without some re-engineering.

Do you have a factory book or the Clymer? PM me with an email address and and I can send you a scan of the safety interlock and starting circuit "isolation" diagrams from the factory book if you're bumping along on the Clymer.

The single click is normal. Problem lies elsewhere.

 

no the fuse block is two sided (one in-a fuse- and one out)

thanks for the help.

pm sent

 

went out....again....because it was bugging me and still no go

i made sure my relays were in the right spot and i believe they are in the right place. heres my present layout

front by coils - starter cut out relay (no color)
middle of bike by seat rail - headlight relay (yellow)
back of bike by fender - sidstand relay (blue)


Is there anything else you think is wrong here.

 

Dude.

I just EXPLAINED "what else I think is wrong here." The things that "signal" the relays. Your relays sound ok, and they are probably doing their job(s.)

SUSPECTS:

-Sidestand switch.
-Neutral Switch.
-Wiring, connections related to those two "sensors."

You never answered my question: "What BOOK are you using?"

Scans on the way.

 

i understand that fitz. calm down. it was just a shout out to see if im overlooking something dumb lol

the book im using is the clymers manual.

i checked all my relays for corrosion, damage, ect
they all look fine so i started with your checklist. the handlebar switch is on run, i tried it with stand up and down, in neutral of course, also tried with clutch in, and i tried it once by removing safety switch....

 

You're missing my point.

If the sidestand switch (or its wiring) has a problem, the bike will think the stand is always down, REGARDLESS of its actual position.

If the neutral switch (or its wiring) has a problem, the bike will think it is always in gear, REGARDLESS of whether or not it actually is.

Just being sure the stand is up and the bike is in neutral won't do any good if either of those switches (or their wiring) has a problem so that they're "falsely reporting" to the relays.

You need to get your meter on the wiring leading to/from the neutral switch and the sidestand switch, and ensure they are "signaling" properly. Is the neutral light on when the bike is in neutral and the switch is on?

When you say "tried it once by removing safety switch" please explain.

I sent you a whole boatload of diagrams that should help, from the factory book.

 

omg. thank you. i didn't interpret your wiring explanation. lol now i feel silly. thank you again for the info you sent. Im gonna tear into it when i get home. Also, i do have the clymers but its a bit on the rough side. i think its an original and it looks like someone spilled oil on it.

 

Happy to help. The Clymer is OK, I struggled by with one until I found my factory books on eBay.

In all truth, the factory book leaves a lot to the assumption that you already know about certain procedures and techniques, so it leaves them out as well.

The BEST reference is both manuals, plus this website. I've tried to fill a bunch of complete gaps in both books, like the tach drive oil seals. Unless you know about it, you'd have no idea that there's a seal buried in the tach drive housing. And it's only covered here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html not in either manual.

So: Slow down; read through the stuff I sent. Break out your multimeter and have at it, and ask questions along the way. It won't be too hard to track down.

 

Also have a look @ the starter solenoid/relay doohicky by the battery. If its acting up, the starter wont spin even if all the sensors and relays are fine. You can jump the 2 terminals with a wrench and see if the starter is working or not, which is the first thing I would check before testing anything else. Once you know starter spins you can move on to the interlock circuits.

Jay

 

yes. it was first thing i checked and it turns starter but no spark

 

Since the engine is cranking but there's no spark, I'd suggest you walk through my troubleshooting guide: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... oting.html