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Ignition switch mount question.(sorted)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by markie, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. markie

    markie Member

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    Oh the best laid plans.... and all that.

    I was planning to submit my bike for it's annual MOT inspection this week but on starting it up I found the rear light not working. Neither was the side light in the headlamp. This means (Yes I have tested it) an intermittant connection through the ignition switch.
    [​IMG]

    Good old Haynes says "Unbolt" but the switch actually seems to be secured by some tamperproof bolts which no longer have a head on them.

    Can somebody confirm this? I have the top yoke (Triple tree) off the bike and it looks like drilling and easy outs are the order of the day?

    Thanks

    EDIT - Just gave the blue wire with red trace a gentle tug - it's not connected to the switch anymore!- hopefully I can strip and repair it!
     
    markie, Mar 7, 2010
    #1
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Re: Ignition switch mount question.

    "CENTER-Punch" them and Drill a hole in them.
    Use an Easy-Out to extract the OEM Bolt.

    Replace with Cap Screws.
    You won't need a Socket.
    The Allen Wrench will tighten the New Cap Screws for you.
     
    RickCoMatic, Mar 7, 2010
    #2
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    Re: Ignition switch mount question.

    the switch isn't threaded so if you grind or use a big drill bit to get rid of whatever head is still on those bolts (can't be much) the switch will come right off
     
    Polock, Mar 7, 2010
    #3
  4. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

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    Re: Ignition switch mount question.

    No need for an ezy-out either. Once you drill off the bolt heads you can get a pair of grips onto the remainder of the bolt and unscrew it.
     
    Hillsy, Mar 7, 2010
    #4
  5. markie

    markie Member

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    Re: Ignition switch mount question.

    Drilled out both sets of bolts - the larger size fixes the switch to the top yoke and the smaller pair fix the lock base to the electrical part. Resoldered the broken wire back on and repaired the butchered wiring. The wiring had been cut in half before - but cannot see a reason.

    Reassembled the switch with M4 cap heads and refixed the lock with M6.

    For anyone in the same position as me - even though I dot punched before drilling, the OEM screws are soft and the drill tries to wander.
     
    markie, Mar 8, 2010
    #5

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