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Im having trouble finding a write up for a rear brake job

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by MikesChevelle, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. MikesChevelle

    MikesChevelle Member

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    Anyone know where a good write up might be for a rear brake job on my 83 Maxim 750?

    I dont want to just start taking things apart :)

    thanks
     
    MikesChevelle, Aug 25, 2012
    #1
  2. maverickbr77

    maverickbr77 Member

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    Do you have the factory or haynes books? If not pm me an I will send them to you.
    rear brakes really are as easy as undoing the brake linkage, pulling the axle, and swapping out the brake pads. then reversing the procedure.
     
    maverickbr77, Aug 25, 2012
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  3. hotsummer

    hotsummer Member

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    Re: Im having trouble finding a write up for a rear brake jo

    You can try it.
     
    hotsummer, Aug 25, 2012
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  4. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    But additionally, chase after corrosion and 30 year old grease.

    Pull the brake pedal and it's pivot point; the "splined brake shaft" and grease that (near swingarm) Sand away any corrosion.

    Do the same for the brake actuating lever; "operating cam" on the rear brake backplate.

    Paint the top of the swingarm if battery acid created rust.

    check brake shoes for delamination, or just spend $40 for new.
     
    TIMEtoRIDE, Aug 25, 2012
    #4
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Here's a pic of a set of new brake shoes installed on a freshly refurbished backing plate. This is from a chain-driven bike, but they look and work exactly the same. The mechanism is bone-simple (just the cam, the shoes and their springs) the most difficult part is removing the rear wheel.

    [​IMG]
     
    bigfitz52, Aug 25, 2012
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  6. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    I'm assuming you have read this thread which is why you're replacing your pads?

    http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... art=0.html

    Good Call.

    As fitz said, its a REALLY simple mechanism.

    Heres some rear wheel removal steps:
    Notes:
    -Much wordier than it really needs to be, basically just un bolt everything connected to the brake cover and remember where it went - a picture helps to jog the memory upon reinstallation for the first couple times.

    - The axel nut is to be torqued to 77 ft-lbs iirc

    -The pinch bolt and other bolts connected to the rear drum cover/etc are to be tightened to 14.5 ft-lbs

    -After the axel is out, it will still be caught on the final drive splines. Wiggle wiggle and wiggle some more back and fourth to free it. it slides to the right, off the splines.

    Reinstallation is just the reverse of removal.

    Good luck!
     
    mtnbikecrazy55, Aug 26, 2012
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  7. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Just a word of caution as it has happened to a couple members.

    Be very careful not to lose the spacer that goes in between the wheel, and final drive assembly. Without that spacer the hub will get pinched when tightening down the axleshaft, and the wheel will be very hard to turn.

    Ghost
     
    MiGhost, Aug 28, 2012
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  8. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    do you have a picture of this spacer? or could you describe what it looks like?

    I have had my rear wheel off numerous times and cannot recall ever seeing any sort of spacer on the final drive side...
     
    mtnbikecrazy55, Aug 28, 2012
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  9. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    MiGhost, Aug 28, 2012
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  10. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    thanks for those pics, ill have to look for that next time!
     
    mtnbikecrazy55, Aug 28, 2012
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