Just bought my first Bike!

Hey everyone, I have been looking for an older Yamaha or Honda and finally found what I was looking for yesterday. I got a 1982 XJ550 Maxim. I don't know much about bikes, and no one was available to go with me so I took a gamble on it. It seems to be stock and in really good shape for how old it is. The only thing I've done so far is detailed it.

It starts, but dies almost immediately. I'm sure it needs the carbs cleaned bad and probably a new battery.

I'm not sure where to start on it.. should I clean the carbs first?

Other things I plan to do:
-Change all fluids
-Clean and lube the chain
-?

Does anyone have any suggestions? Where should I start and is there anything else I need to do? I think this bike has been sitting for quite some time. Here is a pic:

 

gday, great looking bike, compression test ,,check brakes, check valve clearences and go from there, everything you need to know is here, others will chime in with more details, keep safe.

 

Thanks Ken, I have a leak down tester for my car, is this what you mean by a compression test?

Also, I noticed on the left fork there is a sticker with the month/year the motorcycle was manufactured. It has VOID in white letters all over it, what does that mean?

 

Nice looking bike. The sticker on the fork is probably a parking permit of some kind. Everyone on here will tell you to check the rear brakes for delamination first thing. Do yourself a favor and just replace the rear brake shoes and front brake pads. They are cheap and you really have no idea how old the ones on the bike really are. Bigfitz has some excellent write ups on here for cleaning and adjusting the carbs. He is our resident 550 guru. If you have any questions just post them up. There are plenty of us willing to help out.

 

Thank you, I also forgot to mention the front brake doesn't work at all so I have to rebuild that too.

Where are the best places to get parts for these bikes?

Here is a picture of that sticker I mentioned, I think it says MISSOURI SAFETY INSPECTION or something and then I think the date is stamped June 1982. Just not sure what the VOID is all about.

 

Get yourself a manual and do everything in the maintenance section.

PLUS:

Front and rear brake shoes/pads
Check date codes on front brake hoses - they were only good for 2 years.
Check date codes on tires - more than 5 years, replace.
Replace stock fuse box.
Fresh battery.

 

I have the owners manual and a service manual I found from a link on here (it seems to be for a seca but I am assuming the engine is exactly the same)

Is a Walmart battery ok (EverStart brand)?

I don't believe I have a fuse box.. it looks like one of the PO's wired everything with inline fuses... where can I get a fuse box?

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

Chacal is our resident parts guy. He will have anything you might need. Just click the link in the upper right corner of this site and tell him what it is you need. He will hook you up quick and ship it fast!

 

Hi. Welcome and nice bike. Spend some time browsing the forums if you haven't already. You will pick up tons of good info.
FYI, if you don't want the sissy bar with backrest, there are guys here who would! Someone might have some $ for you or parts/services to trade.

 

Welcome!

Another thing to look at is the alternator output. If the charging system isn't up to snuff you get stranded in a hurry.

And put your location in your profile, so people near by can offer you a hand if you need it. I bought a bike from a guy in Virginia and they put inspection stickers on the forks.

Buy a manual, it's worth it. What year and size seca was that manual from? There are a lot of similarities between the bikes, but also, a lot of differences, especially when it comes to wiring.

As everyone else says, chacal is our parts guy. That's his username on this site. He's got a Forum Section called "XJ4Ever - Supporting Vendor." In there is a lot of information he's collected, along with a 6 page catalog of parts. If that's a bit over whelming, just send him a PM with what you think you need, year and model of your bike, and he'll make sure you get the right parts. Everything you've asked for he has. Done alot of business with him (as have many others on this site) and his customer service is down right impressive.

 

Thanks!

The service manual I have is for a XJ550RH Seca and I believe it's a 1981. Will this cover what I need?

I have a gf that will be riding with me so I'm going to keep the sissy bar. I kinda like the look of it too, makes it look "old school" =)

When buying parts, the Right Hand side of the bike is your ride side when you are sitting on it. Is that correct?

 

Yes, it will. The Maxim "supplement" is only the specs differences. If you want a copy, PM me with your email address and I'll send you a scan. It's only like 7 pages or so. Actual service procedures are identical.

Yes, "right" and "left" refer to the riders' POV.

Cylinders are numbered 1-4, left to right as you sit on the bike.

A leakdown test and a compression test are different; you need a compression gauge for a compression test. Be sure to unplug the TCI when performing the test.

Before you try to make the final adjustments on the carbs, your valve clearances will need to be in spec. This particular maintenance procedure was often overlooked and is vital to the long life of your motor.

The advice to run through the "maintenance" section in the manual is solid. DO THEM ALL; leave nothing out, don't skip any.

But please start with the rear brake: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html That bike's too nice to crash.

 

Awesome, thanks! Is there a write-up on how to check valve clearance? I've spent a few hours bookmarking tech tips etc and don't remember seeing one.

 

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

Valve adjustments

 

Thanks!

 

Valve clearance check and adjustment procedure

Above is the link you want.

 

I did some more "exploring" on the Bike today and figured out it runs(idles) without dying when on Prime and not On. If you switch it to on and keep giving it gas it will keep running. I also felt the 4 pipes after a minute and the one on the far right if you are sitting on the bike is not hot. That means that cylinder isn't firing?

Also, I want to take the tank off without spilling gas everywhere, is there a trick to do that? The few things I've read just say, disconnect the hoses under it..

My tachometer also is not working, anything I can check out?(edit: I just noticed in my picture I am missing a fuse.. could this be it?.. the gauges light up right now)

I think I am going to start on the carbs, since you don't need any parts to clean them. I have read through the thread ""Clean Your Own Carbs!" Old School Method by: Rick Massey" and plan on doing it this way with reference from the service manual.

I figured out how to get the bike onto its center stand. Would it be okay to put it in gear while on the stand, to see how it shifts, or is that a no-no?

Also, here is a pic of the wiring: it works, but should I change it to a fuse box?

 

You could. It used to look something like this (550 Seca, fuse box lid removed.) A lot of folks switch to modern ATC (blade) fuses. I rebuilt mine.




Fuse Box lid on:

 

That cold pipe does indicate that you are not firing on that cylinder. Try swapping plugs and see what happens.
These bikes have a vacuum dependent fuel supply petcock. When on the 'on' position, fuel will not run out on its own, if the petcock is working. It should have two hoses. One is a fuel line, (the bigger one). The other is a vacuum hose going from the petcock to the top of one of the carbs. If the hose is not clamped tight or if it is cracked you will not get the vacuum pull needed to make the petcock work on the 'on' position. The prime position is simply an open setting that will let the fuel dump into the carbs. If you remove the tank, you whould be able to do it with the petcock 'on' and it should not leak.

 

Thanks for the pics, I was wondering what it was supposed to look like. I think I'll leave the fuses be for now, they seem ok. I am not missing a fuse after all, the fuse was yellow and blended in with the holder.

Switching plugs is a good idea, I will try that!

Any ideas about the tachometer not working?

 

Agreed!

 

Thanks! I am surprised at how well it cleaned up! The tank looked a little rusty and the chrome looked like it was in pretty bad shape before I detailed it.

I stripped the old wax, clayed the paint and put 3 coats of tech wax on there, and then polished all the chrome, cleaned and conditioned the seat and now I think I'm in love with it. Been out there a few times today just to start it and rev it for a few minutes

 

I switched the number 1 and 4 spark plugs and all cylinders are firing now. I'm not sure if I'm just imaging it, but it sounds a lot meaner! I can't wait to take her for a ride!

 

I did the exact same thing to mine. It works fine. Leave it alone. Sounds like you have bigger fish to fry right now.

 

It looks like cylinder 4 is firing intermittently after swapping plugs. Anything I can do?

I rented a compression tester today from Auto Zone and will do the compression test tonight or tomorrow. I have a few questions about the compression test..

1) Do I take out all plugs, or take out one plug at a time?

2) Is the TCI the black box to the right of the fuse box? When the TCI is unplugged, do I have to ground the plug wires?

3) Can I leave the battery charger on while I do this; should I go buy a new battery before I do the compression test?

4) If the test is off, can I use regular 10w30 to put in the cylinders to check if it's a seal, or do I need to go buy specific motorcycle oil?

What numbers am I looking for on this test?

I also decided I'm going to buy new tires since the ones on there are from 2006. I am looking at buying the Brigestone Spitfires with raised white lettering. I am trying to keep this bike as 80s as possible. Are those good tires and any other suggestions?

Is it ok to ask these type of questions in this forum section, or should I start new thread(s) in another?

Thanks!

 

1: All plugs out, at the same time.

2: The TCI unit is the "black box" in my pics it's directly above the fusebox. It has a blue label on it. Once that's unplugged you don't need to ground the plug wires. Hence unplugging it.

3: You can, but you're gonna need a battery anyway.

4: For this, oil is oil is oil. No more than a couple of teaspoons full, and roll the motor over a few times first to distribute it.

Good idea about the tires; although that's not quite into "scary" range yet. If they've still got tread, wear them out. BS Spits are good tires for that bike, lots of folks swear by them.

These types of questions are actually btter placed in "XJ Chat" because they do qualify as "technical discussions."

Oh, and your tach is cable-operated, it comes off the right front of the head. Suspect cable before instrument but the instruments are not immune to failure either. Tech articles covering instruments, tach drive oil seals, all sorts of cool stuff are in "FAQ Suggestions."

 

OOPS, sorry, missed one:

For the 550, compression specs are:

"Standard" 121psi
Minimum 100psi
Maximum 135psi

Warm the motor up for a couple~three minutes before the test, if possible.

 

Thanks! I'll report back with the results!

 

If they come out a bit wonky, don't panic.

Check the valve clearances and correct any that are out of spec, and re-test. An out of spec valve or two, especially on the same cylinder, can cause some sorry-looking numbers.

You need to check them anyway, even if you get good compression numbers. You could be right on the edge of disaster and not know it.

 

Ok, thank you. I haven't had a chance to check the compression yet, but had a few questions.

Is there a certain order I should be checking these things? Should I do the compression test first, then check the valve clearance, then clean the carbs? I don't want to throw any of the tests by doing them out of order if there is an order..

Is there any parts I should definitely replace while I am in there? I want to fix this back up as cheap as possible but do not want to cut corners.

Also, I mentioned above that one of the cylinders is firing intermittently (sometimes the pipe is hot and sometimes its not after running for a couple minutes) Should I be concerned about this and are there any tests I can do to diagnose it?

Thanks again

 

WOW. Thats funny, when i took my forks off the other week i had one of those missouri safety inspection sticker on there. there were a bunch of them stacked on top of each other and they were a pain to get off in order to get the forks out of the tree. I actually got a corner up on the sticker and when i finally peeled it off it left those damn void imprints everywhere. PAIN IT THE ASS to remove. I was cursing it for a good minute.

 

There's no real specific order; maybe a better understanding of what you're doing and why would help:

A compression test gives us an idea of the "health" of the actual motor itself; the cylinders, rings, valves, etc. The motor is, after all, nothing more than a big air pump; when we run a compression test we're checking its ability to do its "mechanical" job of creating compression.

You can do a compression test any time; doing it before you check and adjust your valves won't hurt anything but you may get some "falsely" low readings.

The valve clearances affect the valve "timing" in other words, exactly when they open and close in relation to the position of the piston. So if you have a valve or two that are opening too soon/closing too late, it will throw off your compression readings.

That same effect on the motor's "pumping ability" is why the valves need to be in spec before you make the final, running vacuum sync on the carbs.

Before you get to the running vacuum sync, there are a lot of other steps that will be completed on the carbs first. They need to be completely clean, their float levels set and verified using fuel and clear tubing, and bench sync'ed.

So you can be working on the carbs while you check your valve clearances, order shims, etc.

Have you found the valve adjustment "how-tos?"
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

On the YICS motors, you will generally find the molded rubber valve cover gasket to be cooked brittle in a few spots. It's a good idea to replace this gasket the first time, along with the rubber/metal composite "donuts" on the cover hold-down bolts. Those "donuts" are the key to a leak-free valve cover; they actually push the cover against the gasket/head. The bolts have stop collars on them that limit how far they can be tightened, it's up to the donuts to press the cover down. Once the gasket and donuts have been replaced, they can be re-used through multiple valve adjustments in the future.

In regard to your one intermittent cylinder: The spark plug caps have a resistor core inside that screws into the cap. These can work loose; look in the hole where the plug goes, and gently ensure they're tight.

Also: The caps screw onto/into the wires. There's a threaded spike in the cap that screws into the wire. Unscrew the cap from the wire; carefully slice about 1/4" or so off the wire, and screw the cap back on. This will give the cap a fresh "bite" on the wire.

You need to be tracking down a service manual while you get busy on this stuff; we've got a lot of good info here but it's "supplemental" to a service manual.

Here's a neat one for Mikuni carbs: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

Hopefully this helps; please feel free to ask about any details you're not clear on. None of this stuff is horribly difficult, but there is a lot to absorb.

 

I had to absorb a lot on these carbs. I believe that is why the last owner could not get it running. I spent countless hours trying to figure these mikuni carbs out. But now the bike screams, and just waiting for my colortune to get here.

 

Awesome! That really helped fitz I appreciate it. I took the gas tank off for the first time, was easier than I thought. no spills. There is some rust on the bottom, what would be the best way to clean it up and protect it?

I completed the compression test and here are the results:

cylinder 1: 135psi
cylinder 2: 121psi
cylinder 3: 126psi
cylinder 4: 127psi

How did I do? Not sure how to interpret those results other than I have compression and that's probably a good thing. I am going to pick up some feeler gauges today and get those valves measured. After valves are measured I am assuming I will need to order some parts, and then start on the carbs.

 

Welcome.
Well by now you have a good idea where to start.

Get all that done and read past post of issues that members
have written about.

Chacal is the way to go if you want parts. I spent way too much
time with "sorry it's back-stocked or not avail". or "sorry it didn't
come in" crap. Len will have it to you FAST and you will ALWAYS
get the right part whether OEM or aftermarket.

These bike are tough-but like good care and will haul butt if taken
care of.

 

Here in New York, we have to have a safety inspection every year. The sticker is put on the fork tube when the bike is inspected. The voids all over prevent you from taking one off a bike and moving it to another. I assume it the same for Missouri

 

Thanks! I have spoken to Chacal and will definitely be placing an order once I figure out everything that I'll need.

That explains the stickers, I tried to get it off but it's not budging.

I got a feeler gauge and I have removed the valve cover and ignition cover. I ended up stripping 2 screws from the ignition cover and had to pound a T-20/T-25 to get them out =/

I need to know how far the feeler gauge should go in to get a measurement. Should you be able to push it all the way through? I just want to make sure I get the correct measurements. I've read the procedure probably 6 times, just want to clarify.

Thanks!

 

The feeler gauge should slip fully between the shim and the back of the cam with just a slight drag on the feeler "leaf." It shouldn't "flop around" but you shouldn't have to JAM it through either.

You can "stack" feeler gauge leaves to get sizes that aren't part of your set, but be sure they're wiped clean first.

Best practice is a "go-no go" routine using the smallest gauge that fits easily, then stepping up a size, until you find the size that absolutely won't fit, then come back down.

The whole process is much easier if you use a primarily metric feeler gauge. American gauges with metric equivalents give you some oddball equivalents to deal with; and the "Americanized" specs are actually slightly out of spec. K-D Tools' 2274 is widely available: http://www.google.com/products?q=K-D+2274&hl=en

Post your clearances (and installed shim sizes) if you're unsure on shim sizes.

 

I went to advance auto and auto zone and the best one I could find was a 26 blade that went from .0015-inch (.038mm) to .025-inch (.635mm).

Will this be good enough or should I try to find the metric one?

 

I ended up measuring the valve clearance tonight. Here are my measurements:

Valve 1: Exhaust=.102 (out of spec) / Intake=.063 (out of spec)

Valve 2: Exhaust=.127mm(out of spec) / Intake=.038(out of spec)

Valve 3: Exhaust=.102mm (out of spec) / Intake=.063(out of spec)

Valve 4: Exhaust=.152mm(out of spec) / Intake=less than .038(out of spec)



Well.. looks like everything is out of spec. Is this common? The lowest my gauge goes is .038mm, then .051, .063, .076, .102, .127, .152 and up.

Also, the aftermarket valves are less than half the price of the original. Is it ok to go aftermarket on these, or should I stick with original?

I don't have a tool, so I guess I'll use the wire/zip tie method. Anything I should do before I move forward?

 

Yikes! Those valves clearances are BAD!

I suggest the wire method. Its quick and easy. Solid core or stranded core woks fine. I just used some stranded core 10GA primary wire. Bend a little 1" "hockey stick" into the end of it.

The next thing you need to do is record all the shim values you currently have in there. Do them one at a time, pull the shim, record whats printed on it (sometimes they are hard to read, you may need a micrometer to verify thickness), then replace it and move to the next.

Then using the reference chart in the manual use it to find the correct shim to put you back in range. Its entirely possible you will find that some of the shims coming out of one bucket, can be used elsewhere in the system.

Once you know what all you need to order, just get the proper shims and when they arrive you can go back in and put them in. I wouldnt run that bike at all anymore until thats done.

Its going to run ALOT better after thats done.

 

The aftermarket shims that chacal carries are fine. I've been running them in both of my 550s for quite a few years/miles now.

Tight valves are very common on a bike that's never had them attended to. This is exactly why myself and a few others here are so insistent upon this as the first step. Good catch!

The job does go easier with a "primarily" metric feeler gauge; you can use what you have just be careful on the math is all.

Go slow, take notes, triple-check your math. But at 19K if that motor was never touched (betcha) that's not a suprising set of numbers. You just saved your motor.

 

Glad I found this forum! And luckily I don't have my motorcycle license yet, or I probably would have been riding it with the valves like that.

So are you saying that the valve shims always stay the same size, and I can reuse them on a different valve?

I am going to double-check the clearances, then I'll try the wire method

 

The valves shims rarely wear measurably, and you're generally safe reusing them unless one exhibits obvious wear. Some people (me for instance) prefer to use new shims, but LOTS of people use "swapped" shims without bad results. If you've got any that show obvious "rotational" wear, to where the numbers are worn off, I'd replace those.

It's also possible that the shims that "become available" won't be the ones you need. Now you need to "read" them.

 

I was unable to remove any of the shims with pliers.. all I got was a few splashes of oil in the face. Maybe I need some hemostats?

The shims didn't seem to budge... do things need to be at a certain angle to pull them out? I was able to pop them up, and the bucket wasn't a problem, just wasn't able to get a good grip on them I guess.

Where can I get some hemostats locally?

 

Harbor Freight or even the auto parts store usually has them; or go ask the local dentist if he has any he's going to pitch. But you should be able to use really skinny needle nose pliers too.

You got them popped up out of the bucket but then couldn't get them out?

You're using the "wire down the plug 'ole" trick aren't you?

Go back and re-read my "valve adjustment Part 2" where I explain that one of the pitfalls of doing it that way is the fact that you need three hands. By holding the valve open from below, nothing is holding the bucket down, so it wants to come up. You have to hold the bucket down when you pop the shim, there're pictures that illustrate what I'm talking about.

 

the bucket didn't look like it was moving after I initially loosened the shim from it with a screwdriver. I could use a screwdriver to pry it up and the bucket would be flush.

When I grab the shim with pliers/hemostats, what direction should I be trying to pull it out? I was applying considerable force with the pliers and I don't want to break anything. I'm a little concerned about the metal being slightly damaged where the screwdriver is rubbing against the head when you pry up the shim.

 

you may not be keeping the valve open enough. Perhaps a larger gauge wire would work a little better. While all 10ga wire should be the same diamter of core, it isnt always the same thickness of insulation. Also thick standed wired compresses less than thin stranded wire.

Once you "pop" the shim from the bucket with a small (and definately demagnetized) screwdriver, the shim should be relatively easy to pull from under the cam. I use a little L shapped piece of coat hanger that I put down behind the cam then just by hand rotate it to push the shim towards the spark plug holes. No need for pliars or hemostats with that method.

 

The coat hanger method of removing the shim sounds interesting. Do you have a diagram or a picture of it? does one end of the coat hanger just push on the side of the shim?

 

I've used the plastic zip-tie method and I liked the results. Used a small non-magnetic flat head that fit the little slot in the bucket nice and held the bucket down with very small needle nose pliers. As the shim slipped out I grabbed it with the pliers and voila! It's actually a lot more of a pain in the ass than that, but it worked for me.