Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Berserker, Sep 11, 2021.
I tried flipping and even swapping to another of the same bulb and incandescent. Nothing.
Here are the crazy readings with it running that I got. Left side is switch on/right side is not
Front turn signals: 3.5/2.5
Daytime Running Light (spoke mounted LED): 16.23
Power at main fuse: 15-18v
Rear signals- Ch side 3.3/.28
DG side 3.3/.32
Front brake signal was out now, rear worked fine.
Is it possible to boost power running a new line from the battery to the switch?
Anyone got any input before I try running an additional lead and go kaboom?
Getting the LED's signals working would be the least of my worries if these voltages are correct. I would verify the meter and if confident look at replacing the voltage regulator or finding out why it is not regulating the AC Generator output.
As far as I can tell the meter is accurate but I’ll retake my battery reading. I know it’s at like 13.9 when off. I figured 17 was high, but my idle is pretty high. I don’t know what limit it’s supposed to be at.
The regulator should maintain a maximum output of 14.5 +/-.3 volts with a fully charged battery, so yes up near 18 is a problem.
Awesome. It read near 19 today, DC. So how do I resolve this? Is it just an alternator or just a rectifier problem? Could it be my battery? I haven’t replaced it yet.
The regulator is the most likely fault, but make sure the wiring associated with it is in good condition with no corroded or pushed terminals.
I’m looking at getting a new Reg/Rec, could you walk me through the testing of it and how to get voltage up to my rear signals/ why only my headlight is coming in right.
Swapped all lights to LED including all indicators, new regulator in. Battery now reads 17v. Still not enough going to rear signals.
is the 17 volts with key off and bike not running?
Last I checked yes. But I’m going to check it again after work before I start up the bike and see. I need to pickup a second multimeter to try and trouble shoot according to the manual.
And so the riddle continues. Replaced my 9v battery in the multimeter, tested the dead battery 1.9v, tested the second new battery 9.7V (both Duracell). Then tested the battery on my bike. Here’s what I found:
Key off: 12.7
Acc Mode (electrical on): 12.49
Engine on apron 2k with choke on: 12.58
Voltage drop when starting: 10.8
So now I’m stuck thinking it must be my stator or alternator. The manual says this bike is due for both to be changed, and I’m about ready to just give in to both given my weirdness going on.
Only front flashers working, and last I checked they weren’t even reading at 12v but I’ll get a more accurate number later today now that I know my meter isn’t on the fritz and it was likely just some anomaly.
low voltage first thing to check is brushes, condition and length and copper rings on rotor