Looking for obscure o-ring

So after checking my float bowl levels in my kitchen using water, i discovered a rather significant leak in the fuel delivery system, which would explain the emptying of my fuel line after sitting for a time.

The leak is coming from both sides of the t-shaped fuel transfer pipe between carbs 1 and 2 (hitachi, see attached picture). I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on where to find some replacement o-rings for the piece. They aren't particularly unusual o-rings, but I'm guessing my local favorite hardware store wont have any that are ok for use with gasoline. Any advice? Favorite Stores?
Thanks!

 

I just bought some from Chacal, along with a bunch of other stuff (waiting for them to arrive). A set of 6 for the fuel rail tubes will set you back a whopping $7.50 plus shipping. Part number HCP92SET6.

You might also want to consider getting some silicone grease while you're at it -- $6.00 for a 1/2 oz tub, part number HCP1714.

If you want his complete list of available parts, dig for it in the forums. It spans several posts.

 

And H-e-e-e-r-e they are!:

Fuel Pipe O-Rings:


mmm1) OEM and Aftermarket Hitachi fuel rail Connector Pipe O-RING.....all fours carbs share a common fuel supply, and this fuel supply is distributed to each carb via a brass or aluminum tube that connects one carb to another. These tubes fits into a machined bores in the carb base, and the tubes are sealed in their bores with these rubber o-rings. NOTE: original seals were "D-rings" rather than "O-rings", but are now serviced only as o-rings (both OEM and replacements), but are the correct shape and firmness to provide a leak-proof fit. You will only be able to access these seals if you break the carbs out of their rack! (and if you do break the rack, you need to replace these seals). Aftermarket seals comes in your choice of either a lower-cost Buna-N material, or a longer-life Viton material. Either one will work just fine and last until the next time you take your carbs apart!

The viton material is much harder than the Buna-N material and the use of the viton seals requires quite a bit of effort to install the connector tube into the carb fuel port bores!

- Use 2 seals per tube, or a total of 6 seals per entire carb rack, for HSC32 series carbs (XJ650 except Turbo, XJ750 all).

- Use 2 seals per tube, or a total of 10 seals per entire carb rack, for HSC33 series carbs (all XJ700 non-X models).


HCP92 OEM Hitachi fuel line Tube O-Ring, each:
$ 1.50

HCP92SET6 OEM Hitachi fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 6:
$ 7.50

HCP92SET10 OEM Hitachi fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 10:
$ 9.00


HCP2421SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel line Tube O-Ring, pair:
$ 2.00

HCP2421SET6 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 6:
$ 4.00

HCP2421SET10 Aftermarket Hitachi Buna-N material fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 10:
$ 6.50


HCP2420SET2 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel line Tube O-Ring, pair:
$ 2.50

HCP2420SET6 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 6:
$ 6.00

HCP2420SET10 Aftermarket Hitachi Viton material fuel line Tube O-Ring, set of 10:
$ 8.50


http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... t=135.html


Just be aware that you have to break the carb rack apart to replace these.

 

I found them at a Hardware Store. In Plumbing. They had several drawers full of O-Rings. Just bring-in one to match-up with the one you need.

I also repaired a T-fitting that was NOT O-ringed by applying some Shrink-Wrap on the ends with the two ridges instead of O-rings.

It worked-out rather well. I pressed-in the fitting using some Marvel Mystery Oil as lube.

 

Schmuck, ya' gotta keep a positive attitude about these things!

 

You know, it's common for those O-rings to shrink when they dry out and appear to leak but they will swell up again when they get soaked with fuel and then start to seal so you may not need to replace them at all. Here in Arizona if there is no fuel in the float bowls the O-rings get so loose that little part will rattle around in the holes.
On the other hand 25 year old O-rings can't be in great shape so it wouldn't hurt to get some new ones to keep on hand just in case they are cracked and need to be replaced cause they don't seal.

 

I tried that with the o-ring for the selector lever on my petcock. Didn't work too well. Large amounts of fail.

There was also an article on the XJCD pointing out the difficulty of finding the right size of o-ring for the throttle shafts. I wouldn't hold out too much hope for finding o-rings for the fuel rail at the hardware store, either.

It's called a sense of humor. Remember how everyone (including myself) was getting all worked up at the thought of breaking the rack apart?

That reminds me -- I'll see if I can't get that writeup done tonight. Then, find a place to upload it to...

 

Remember that everything on these bikes is metric, so O-rings would most likely be a standard METRIC sizes and most hardware stores will carry Imperial Orings.
I bought a metric assortment from McMaster carr and haven't started the re-assembly process.
I bought the 380 pc BUNA set for about $18. Buna is "acceptable" for gasoline, and should be acceptable. Viton is better (but about 4X the price)

I figure if I use (6) of them, I'm money ahead compared to the dealer prices.
BUT from everything I have read, if you need the throttle body seals you should go with Chacal's seals. You really don't want the throttle shaft sticking!
I'll try to post an update once I get some of the parts back together.
Mike

 

thanks a ton guys!
breaking the rack apart is way easier than separating the rack from those damn airbox boots, the way i see it.
As for the orings swelling, thats an interesting point, AZSteve. I hope thats not the case here though, cause that would mean the disappearing fuel in my fuel line is going somewhere else! I guess its wait and see.
Chacal, i may be hitting you up with a PM shortly, and thanks for the quick response. Theres a GREAT local hardware store here in Boulder that i'm gonna try first, but i'll come a callin when they dont have it!

 

so i went to the hardware store, and they had a similar o-ring that i installed and it seems to be working well, leak fixed. It was slightly off though, and i may go ahead and replace with the actual part sometime soon. But for now its all good! Thanks!