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Low voltage -> turn signals, brake light, neutral light gone

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by IvarNelson, Sep 19, 2011.

  1. IvarNelson

    IvarNelson Member

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    While vacuum syncing my bike it suddenly would not start. Solenoid was clicking and since I had turned it on an off several times I figured the battery was low.
    I charged and the bike fired right up.
    However the brake lights are not working and neither is the neutral light or the turn signals.
    the head light along with indicator is functioning and so is the oil level indicator. The tail light is working but does not light up when braking.
    Horn does not work either.

    I have been trying to figure out what has gone wrong from looking in my haynes manual but cannot seem to figure it out.
    I am suspecting the starting cut-off relay but not sure.

    Can anyone think of something that can cause these sympthoms? All the fuses look good (have not gotten a multimeter yet).

    Any ideas are appreciated.
     
  2. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the Signal fuse, or its holder. If it's an original fuse box, that's probably the cause.
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Replace the OEM Fuse Panel just for peace of mind.

    The Battery might not be capable of being "Deep Cycled" anymore.
    Living off the top of the Battery makes it difficult on the system.

    Examine the Alternator Brushes.
    10mm or less = Replace worn Brushes.

    Run Bike.
    Measure Charging Current at Battery at 2000rpm's.
    Charging Current should be +14.2~14.5 Volts.
    Less indicates a Charging System problem.
    Brushes too short.
    Alternator Rotor Brush Orbit Paths scorched.
     
  4. IvarNelson

    IvarNelson Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys! Nice to have two heavy hitters replying!
    I just bought myself a multimeter. guess a man cant go wrong with some extra tools/gear.

    However I dont quite understand how you can figure that the alternator is busted. The symptoms cannot be because of bad voltage from the battery since there is enough power to run the head lights.
    I will have a look at the fusebox tomorrow (when its light) and test the starting circuit cut off relay according to my haynes manual.
    I am suspecting something might have happened to the diode or above relay when i had the tank off last time around.

    Is there any one relay, switch or diode that controls both neutral light, horns, brake light and turn signals?
    The problem arouse when I tried to start without having enough juice in the battery so I dont think it depends on the alternator not producing enough power (again, full headlight is no problem)
     
  5. IvarNelson

    IvarNelson Member

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    HI again.
    Checked the charge voltage. it was above 14.5 so thats good.
    Flasher relay, self cancelling unit, rectifier and ignition cut-off relays seem to be working properly. Although I do not feel perfectly sure of having completed the testing in the correct fashion since I am very new to electrical troubleshooting and the manual is not so easily understood. To sum up above components are good IMO.

    I must say I am quite puzzled.
    What component controls both the horn, nutral light and the turn signals? Since the problem arose when I tried to start the bike with too low voltage I figure there must be some component that is controlling the functions that are dysfunctional.

    I have checked the fusebox for broken circuits but not found any. Also, if the signal fuse circuit would be broken, the light 'pass' switch would not be working properly (like it is now)?
     
  6. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    The horn, turn signals, tail light, and neutral light all use the Signals circuit. That's why I suggested that your problem was there or in the fuse clips for it if it's the stock fuse box. How did you check it? Did you turn on your turn signals then check the voltage versus ground on the load size of the fuse?

    What "Pass" switch are you talking about?
     
  7. IvarNelson

    IvarNelson Member

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    Thanks SQLguy.

    I checked with a multimeter just to see if there was a connection and it was positive.

    However...

    The problem is now solved!

    It was the fusebox. I turned the key and then fiddled around with the fuses a little and all of the sudden the neutral light came on! I have cleaned the connections for the fuses and it is now back to full working condition.

    Just ordered a new replacement fusebox and some other stuff too.
    Autumn is coming on strong here in Sweden so I think the season is pretty much over. Will do a complete overhaul of the top next. Going to be interesting to see what the engine looks like from the inside (never done it)!

    Thanks for the help again!

    btw, i think I will do a step by step post in the forum on my head overhaul, its always fun with a post containing lots of pics!
     

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