MY GOD I NEED HELP

Ok i cleaned my carbs like i was a pro and what do you know one of my floats are stuck closed. WHen i cleaned them I pushed a tad bit on the floats while the where upside down and im thinking one of the needles got jammed you know cause it has the rubber on the end how do i unstick so ill get this beast on the road PLEASE HELP ME I DONT WANT TO TAKE THE CARBS OFF AGAIN

 

If your float is stuck like this then no fuel will flow into the carb. If fuel is flowing or overflowing then it is stuck open. Try tapping the float bowl with the end of a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't knock it loose then you may have to remove them. In addition starting the engine sometimes produces enough vibration to loose the float. But don't start it if the engine is covered in fuel!

 

Put the Petcock in Prime and Fill the Bowls that aren't stuck.

Disconnect the Fuel Supply Line from the Petcock to the Carbs.
Let the Supply Line Drain-out.
Wipe the outside of the Supply Line clean with Alcohol.

Remove the Drain Screw from the Fuel Bowl that has the Stuck Float.

Insert a Rubber Syringe into the Fuel Supply Line.
Tape it in ... Air Tight.

Countdown: 3, 2, 1
then, ...

Give the Syringe a "Two-handed" Balloon-Pop.

(Don't get too carried-away "tapping" on the Float Bowl. The side of a Float Bowl will fracture pretty easily. Then, you'll have a stuck float and a fractured bowl.)

If this don't work ... you have to go-in and free it with the needles.

 

your right its stuck closed and i tapped it with a screwdriver handle but to no avail. And im thinking of doing 2 possible things to correct this problem. 1: remove fuel source and blow compressed air into the fuel line. 2: get a L shaped screwdriver and just remove that one bowl. So how does that sound and do you think its a good idea or not? Ya'lls input is greatly appreciated.

 

I'd vote for L shaped screwdriver.

Cool as compressed air sounds, there is bound to be a good reason not to do it.....

Of course once you get a zillion cramps in your hand from using the L shaped screwdriver you'll probably find you have to pull the rack for some reason anyhow.

 

Sorry Rick as I was writing mine you must have been writing yours. Well about the drain screw on the bowl when i had the bowls off for cleaning I soaked them in b-12 chem tool for about 12 hours cleaned them real nice and noticed that these screws were very rusty so i soaked them in pb-blaster for about 2 days but i still couldn't get them out so I just put them back on with stuck screws It prolly was a bad choice to do so but I did it anyways Finally rode the beast around the yard today but she was only firing on three i was super pissed off but yall will help me get right thanks Rick and BlueMaxim yall rock

 

True Micarl and I have massive hands but a small body. Guess i could thank my dad for that, and Ritalin

 

So, if you can't open the drain screw how do you know the float is stuck?

You'll need to be able to open the screws to set your float heights.

Time to pull the carbs and get those screws out.

I was able to remove mine by removing the bowls and heating the bowl gently where the drain screw goes in. Mine were buggered so I got some SS ones from ArizonaSteve (HEY! Where has he been?). I believe Polock also sells them.

 

Thats the kinda news i dont like to here just put them back on today now ill have to take them off tomorrow and you said a little heat will do me right and how do i set my float height with a bottle of gas and a tube after i get them screws out?

 

Make sure you don't have any fuel lying around :!: and be gentle. Just heat the bowl a bit where the threads bite (about 1/2 inch in from the top of the hole).

Do a search. Someone has posted excelent pics of checking float height. Ideally you'll mount the carbs level on some kind of fixture as you will be pulling the bowls several times.

 

You can get those Drains out "Playing Doctor" with a DREMEL and the Snake attachment.

Dentist-style all the butchered material FLAT.
CUT a new slot across the center.

Grind-off the sides of the Big Screwdriver bit that comes with the Hand-held Impact tool.

Use the Impact tool.
DON'T use a whole hammer.
Just use the Head of a standard-sized Ball-peen Hammer. (No handle)

Load the Impact Tool with HEAVY Twisting Torque.
Bring a smart, light, TAP to the Impact Tool.
Re-load and more smartly tap the tool until the screw breaks loose.

Have an assistant hold the Fuel Bowl for you so that you have both hands free.

Most importantly, have the assistant hold the Fuel Bowl upon a flattened-out roll of Paper Towels.
The paper towel will "Absorb" the force applied in the VERTICAL Vector and help prevent the Fuel Bowl from being fractured.

Your strong loading-up the Impact Tool will still apply ample force to the HORIZONTAL Vector, as the Tool is struck, providing your assistant restrains the Bowl against your Tool Loading force.

 

Alright ill jump on it after work today. I dont own a dremel or an impact tool so i guess i will be making a trip to the parts store. which I love!!! Thanks guys I'll keep ya updated on the progress.

 

OK I tried the impact tool couldn't get it to work. Tried the heat couldn't get it to work also. Now I know im gonna catch some slack from ya'll, but i put the carbs back on with out freeing the drain screws. Sorry im just scared of breaking the bowl or anything involving the carb period. Now I know this is not recommended. But if all the heights on my floats are equal to one another while upside down "full bowl" it should be ok. RIGHT?. Plus she runs like a scalded dog now full range with no hickups save for some backfire in the carbs which I think is due from the pilot screws got them all at 2 1/2 turns out but I dark plugs because of that. when i took out the pilot plug they ranged from 3/4 turns out to 3 turns out factory set. Lemme now something fellas.