MY XJ is hard to start from cold..

Hi all..
Me again..
I know I should be ashamed of meself but I dont use my XJ as often as I should..Sometimes she sits there for a few months..I take out the battery and give her a bit of a zigg and she normally starts..But usually next morning she wont without difficulty. I had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned by a guy who knows his stuff and when I use her every day no problems.
So my question is...Is there any nack needed to start her from cold..?
Do I choke her..Or do I prime her.? Do I give her a bit of throttle.?
Yesterday I had to take the plugs out and take a blow torch to them..
Started first go once I put them back in.
As always...thanking ye all in advance.
Morg the rookie.

 

Were the carbs cleaned before intermittent long periods of sitting? They could need cleaned again. Save yourself some money and do it yourself, its not too hard.

 

Xj's are known to be cold blooded.

How did the plugs look when you pulled them?

Did you set the pilots after sync'ing the carbs?

Is your batt FULLY charged?

Ethonal will collect a lot of water if left sitting for any more
then a few weeks- try draining the fuel and replace with fresh
stuff.

 

Also-are the valves within tolerance?

 

I'd start there.

 

Thanks guys..
I think the carbs are fine cos when she starts she runs nice and sweet. And I do have a good in line fuel filter fitted.
I do suspect the battery though..It must be at least 6 or 7 years old and I have charged it a number of times already.
I noticed the other day than when checking the spark it only appeared after I let the starter button go.
What about the prime setting...Should I set it there before I try and start her..
When I first bought her I was told to leave her on prime constantly.. But seems not.. Funny thing is though..When she was left on prime constantly she started all the time first push of the button.

 

Fuel DOES evaporate from the bowls after sitting for long periods of time. Turn the fuel valve to PRIME, and you will see fuel flow through the fuel filter. Then turn the fuel valve to RUN, and with a properly maintained, fully charged battery, it should start with little drama.

If your battery is slightly discharged, the starter is so efficient it can still turn over the engine even if there isn't enough charge to fire the spark plugs. Take care of/replace that old battery. You're living on borrowed time at that age.

As has been mentioned, old fuel (especially ethanol-blended fuels) will draw moisture. If you're going to let it sit that long regularly, you might consider parking it with a FULL tank of fuel, and putting fuel stabilizer in it as a general rule before such periods of rest.

 

Well there are lots of issues with cold starting. How cold? I know mine is difficult to start when it's less than 35 F out. But any warmer and there is NO problem.

If you see sparks when you let off the button, then your battery is definitely an issue. It's providing enough juice to turn the starter, or create a spark, but not both at the same time.

Also realize that gasoline evaporates at a rate relative to the surface area exposed to atmosphere. There is little volume and a lot of surface area to the fuel in the bowl, so it'll evaporate quickly (within weeks). That's why when you leave it on prime it starts easier, the bowls are evaporating and automatically refilling with gas. This is not recommended because if a float needle sticks you'll be filling your crankcase with gas. You should leave it on ON, and if it sits for a long time, just put it on PRI for 30 seconds before attempting to start it, and that will refill the bowls.

Cleaning your carbs if it sits for a couple of months is a must. I've completely rebuilt mine, so with no seized fastners and all new rubber bits, I can easily remove the carbs, tear each one completely down, soak and blow carb cleaner through each of the components (do not soak the whole carb, that'll just eat the seals), reassemble, and reinstall in 3-4 hours. And I learned how to clean carbs from this forum, only a couple years ago. You get better with practice ;-)
EDIT: Oh yeah, and that's if you left it sitting with gas in the bowls. You can reduce the need for a carb clean if you drain the bowls before you let it sit.

Also, as always, check your valve clearances. If they're in spec, it's a half hour job, if not, you'll be saving yourself a lot of trouble in the future.

 

Also-are the valves within tolerance?

 

Once the temperatures are Fall-like; these Bikes ... (even superbly tuned bikes) ... will get hard to start.
Keep your Battery charged-up.
It helps.

Rig the Bike to introduce Starting Fluid with ease.
Run a Hose into the Airbox Opening to a convenient location.
Fasten it securely with a Plastic Tie or Vinyl Tape.

Use it to shoot Starting Fluid into the Airbox to get the Plant fired-up.
Remove it in the Spring.

 

Thanks Guys..
I was told by a local expert that the worse thing to do with older bikes is to leave them sitting.
Thanks for all you help..
One more bit of advice..Is there an easy way to adjust the idle..She olny ticks over at around 450rpm and I believe she should be around 1000.?
Do I have to take the tank off and keep the engine running.?
Thank you.
I see I have been promoted to gear grinder lol...

 

There is a knob in the center under the rear of the bank of carbs that is the main idle adjuster. Screwing it in increases the idle. You need not remove the fuel tank to access it.

Your tickover RPM should be 1050 if it's a 650/750; 1200 if it's a 550. You never told us what bike.

And don't ignore your valve clearances.