Need help with clutch issue

Xjers:

Last week my clutch lever started chattering when I would squeeze it, like the cable was really binding.

Today I took everything apart to check it out.

With the cable unhooked, the lever swings smooth.

I oiled the cable, which was already nice and free.

I pulled the actuator rod and wiped the chain gunk off, then smeared a little grease along its length and slid it back in.

I hooked the cable back up and worked the clutch lever with the side cover still off, and everything worked buttery smooth. The cam worked in and out like it's supposed to.

I smeared a dab of grease in the recess on the cam disc that the rod sits in, and bolted the cover back on.

I adjusted the set screw as directed in the manual, then adjusted the cable at the lever for the recommended free play.

I tried it out again, and the lever growled and chattered just like before. It's bad enough that with the engine off you can see the turn signal and gauges vibrate when you squeeze the clutch lever.

I held a screwdriver against the side cover (over the drive sprocket) and up to my ear, then squeezed the clutch lever. The binding and chattering seems to be coming from inside the cover and transmitting up the cable.

What is going on?

The clutch itself is working fine, with no slipping or grabbing.

Can the cam mechanism inside the round device go bad and behave like this? It works fine with the cover off, but under the load of trying to push the actuator rod may be different.

Anybody got any experience/ideas? Please help!!

Thanks,
Herb

 

I'd pull the cover, pull the plates and make sure the big nut that holds the clutch basket in place hasn't worked loose. Failing that, I'd want to check the big roller bearing that the clutch basket shaft rides in, if it's the same setup as the 650.

 

I'd check the positioning of the cam actuator itself. It has to line up to a particular point when placing the clutch cover back on over the clutch housing. I think from memory there might be an alignment mark. If the cam is out of alignment it might be a problem. Not sure I understand the chattering with the engine off though...

 

Need a little more details. The cover you are refering to, is it the big one on the engine itself, on the lever or on the actuator. Did the problem just start recently or has it been this way all along? Are you feeling it when you pull the lever or when the lever is in it's normal position. Do you feel it in the handle or just hear it in the engine? You could have an ill routed cable, a bad bushing or bearing in the clutch assembly, a warped or damaged clutch plate or steel or a bound cable end or actuator.

 

Thanks for the replies and thoughts.

This issue is all in the lever and cable mechanism -- the clutch discs, etc. are fine, as far as I know, and this problem occurs whether the engine is running or not.

Sorry if "chattering" made you think of the clutch itself -- I just don't know how else to describe it...

When you squeeze the clutch lever, it doesn't smoothly move through its arc, it jerks and vibrates like the cable is binding. (Similar to a door hinge that needs oiling -- how it will sometimes bind and pop if there's a lot of weight on it.)

The cover I referred to is the side cover over the drive sprocket. On my 400, the clutch cable goes into the top of this cover, and the cam actuating mechanism is mounted inside (right by your left ankle when riding).

A long rod runs from the cam mechanism, through the engine cases, to the right side of the engine, where it actually works the clutch pack.

Starting a week or so ago, the clutch lever started binding some, but only for the last little bit of travel before it reached the grip. Now it does it through almost the whole range of travel when you squeeze it.

Next I think I'll take the clutch lever off and put a little grease in the hole where it pivots on the perch bolt. Like I said in my last post, the lever and cable work freely by themselves, but under the pressure of actually actuating the clutch it's a different story. Perhaps the lever is binding on the bolt when under the strain of operating the clutch...

Any thoughts are appreciated, and I'll keep you posted!

Stay safe-
Herb

 

If everything in the lever and cable is fine then through the process of elimination, it has to be something in the clutch basket. Pull the cover and have a look. If it is as bad as you say, the problem should be obvious. Might be a broken spring or a a stripped gear on the inside of the cover. Either way, you need to do some more investigation.

 

Isn't there a Ball Bearing at the end of that rod that is supposed to let the Push Rod not spin or vibrate.

Maybe that thing isn't seated right or needs to be centered-up or something to keep the vibrations and rotation to a minimum.

>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<

"I hope it's not the Finnigan Pin or one of the dual galloping rods because those things only go bad if there's something wrong with the other one. They still make 'em but they're always on back-order because it's usually something else, anyway. We ordered both of them for you because there's nothing wrong with yours. Just sign the work order right here ... and, we'll call you when it's ready. We'll probably need some extra time because the whole dash has to come out. Want some coffee ... it's free. If you have a complaint please go to Helen Waite or Donna DiRhode."

 

Rick:

There is a ball bearing in the center of the actuator cam mechanism that the push rod rides on, to prevent the push rod from turning as the actuator cam turns itself in and out.

I put a little dab of grease on top of that ball yesterday, but it didn't make any difference.

I'm going to grease the lever pivot next and see if that helps.

Herb

 

The only other thing I have for Clutch Vibrations and Noise is if theres a worn-out Clutch, Friction Plate or a failed friction plate pad.

You'd have more than a vibrating hand lever if that was the case, though.

All them clutches and drivers are in the right order, inside there, right???

 

Rick:

Yes, I think the clutch pack is in original "from the factory" condition.

This problem occurs whether the bike is running or not. It's strictly a lever/cable/actuator issue.

Herb

 

Ok, now I think I know what might be the problem. My GS550E had a similar arrangement. It used a pushrod to actuate the clutch. On the left side, there was a special bearing that was simply a set of very small ball bearings held in a spiral race. As the bearing turned, the balls moved inside the spiral, causing the whole assembly to move outward and push the rod. Overzealous use of chain lube caused a lot of grit to build up behind the sprocket cover, which made its way into the bearing and caused it to fail. It made it very difficult to actuate the clutch.

Check out part # 15 and 16 on this schematic:

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=635957

BTW, there is a service manual you can download at http://www.repairmanualclub.com. You have to register, but it's quick and easy.

 

Mac:

Thanks for the heads up. I think you're probably right.

I lubed the lever pivot, but it didn't help.

The only part of the whole mechanism left that I haven't lubed or checked is the actuator cam gizmo (what Yamaha calls a "push lever assembly") that turns and pushes on the pushrod.

It works fine with the cover off, but under the pressure of actually operating the clutch may be a different story. The pressure from the pushrod may be creating the binding and grabbing inside the bearings.

I'm going to check and see if it can be taken apart and greased. If not, I'll have to put up a parts request on RiderParts.com, because it appears that the part is no longer available from Yamaha.

I've already got a service manual, so I'll see if it discusses any cleaning/maintenance of the part.

Thanks again for the tip, and for relaying your experience with your GS. It helps knowing someone else has had a similar problem and solved it!

Herb