New float needle valves are longer

So I ordered a set of float needle valves along with the seats for the XJ-750. When installed, I could not get any fuel into the bowls. Upon futher inspection, I noticed the new float needle valves have a slightly longer spring loaded pin in the end ~ .033 inches to be exact. (used electronic calipers) So if I bend the tab on the float down to compensate, will this cure my no fuel flow issue? Or do I need to order a different set of float needle valves?
Here is picture of what I am talking about....

Thanks guys.

 

Yes, adjust your tabs out more to compensate. Right now, your floats are not lifting high enough for any of the jets to be submerged. Loosen your drain screws and hook up a line of clear tubing to the port on the bottom of the bowl. Then make sure your level is at or a little under the bowl gasket level.

Here's a picture:



Pic courtesy of FinnogAngela from this thread: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=4050.html

 

You don't have to adjust the tabs. The spring clips just pry off. I just swap them. I do this when I rebuild carbs. I like the old spring clips better myself.

 

Does the float tab not go between the pin and the spring clip? Once the whole setup is upside down, lack of pressure from the float lets the gas flow. The clip doesn't do anything except keep the needle from falling out of the seat if the gas level drops too low right?

 

Thanks for the tip and the picture. The Haynes manual also has a crude drawing but that picture is nice.

Take a closer look. I'm not concerned with the spring clips. The center pin of the needle valve that is spring loaded is longer than the older one.

 

I got it now. Yes I see the difference but I also see that the needle base is longer from the flutes to the base of the rubber tip. That makes me wonder if it is the right float needle. Where did you get them? Either way, you could always try them and see what the clear tube method show on the float levels. If far off I would bet they are wrong.

 

I bought them here:
https://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_ki ... odel=XJ750
Part number: 48-1436

I just finished setting the float levels on the carburetors and checking to see if the fuel level was in spec. I started by setting the float height tabs on one of the floats. I tried it a couple of times and got the fuel level with in spec. I then use an electronic caliper to measure that tab and set the other float tabs to match. (with in .002 inches of each other) I am only able to check the fuel level on 3 of the 4 carbs because one has a screw that is going to be in that bowl until the end of time but I am confident it is good. I'll probably swap bowls just to be sure though. The carbs appear to be filling with fuel correctly and I don’t have an overflow condition anymore.

Check out the pictures of my contraption to hold the carbs. ~ a piece of 2x4, a vise and bungee cord ~ I know the fuel level doesn't look right in the picture but that is because I let go of the hose to take the picture.

 

Well I'm glad they worked. Gremlin was right all along. One of these days I'm going to take a pic of my bench setup. It's good for a laugh! But it works. I can't see how you hold them on there, zip ties through the rack? I use the torpedo level too. Especially good due to the magnetic strip.

 

Hey FZ1, yes I noticed that difference too when using the aftermarket float needle/seat/spring clip set up-----the actual needle is overall a bit longer than the stock one. It's not clear from your follow-up posts whether you ended up using the new needle & clip & seat or ??????

 

I used the new needle, seat and spring clip. I adjusted the tab on the float to compensate.