new mufflers=new mixture, what you think of this plug?

ok, so my new quiet mufflers needed mixture adjustments, ended up coming out almost 2 turns on the mixture screws using the Colortune.

did about 20 miles just now, runs real nice except Sometimes off the bottom, Sometimes I'll have to feather it to climb but it's real smooth.

so here's the pic of the plugs, in order from left to right, 1 to 4. Now, # 1 is obviously white and black while the other 3 are damn near perfect (I think # 3 might be a mm worth to rich/out). here's the thing. visually I can see the mixture screw on the # 1 carb is out more than the other 3, But my first impression of the plug would've been that it's Lean. is that what rich looks like cause there's still black at the thread ring? the damn plug makes no sense to me. Thanks ya'll

 

Hmmm, wasn't your #1 a bit off before in another thread? Seems that #1 is your problem child.

Definitely looks lean to me. I would be checking the boot/wire, and carb to engine boot. You may have a ignition issue. Could have a small air leak. My #4 is kinda like your #1. I ended up snipping off about an inch of the plug wire and screwing the cap back in. Then rechecked the Carb to engine boot for leaks. I found a small leak on the boot. No matter how I tightened it, I couldn't get rid of it. I ended up running a dab of high temp RTV around the inside of the boot and let it dry, and reassembled. Problem solved.

I'm not sure if cutting back the plug wire was necessary, but it was done in combination with fixing the air leak so who knows. Just thought I would mention it.

"Well what fixed it?"... "well I did like 5 things to it, could be any of them!"

*edit* Oh, meant to ask, have you done a compression test? If so, does #1 differ from the rest at all?

 

thanks, yeah comp test was ok, have them written down somewhere...

how did you know you had that leak on #4? unlit propane or spraying starting fluid around it?

my ignition is new, and one new coil ended up being bad, so after All that time it took me to find it, today I know my ignition is spot on.

When you RTV'd the inside of your boot, did you RTV the mating surface too?

you're right about my other post, # 1 looked like that with my open mufflers too, damn damn damn. Gotta tell ya though, this bitch is running SMOOOOOOTH. no bucking if I'm in too high a gear too, real sweet

 

You have a vacuum leak on #1. Check the blasted vacuum port plug; I JUST discovered one on my '81 that looked fine but was HARD AS A ROCK and "dancing" around on the nipple. I've also had the brass nipples come loose from the manifolds before.

MAYBE but only maybe it's so rich it's "washing" the plug clean, but I doubt it. Run #1 back in to more closely match the others and see what happens (although this advice is dependent upon the valve adustment Q, below.)

It could also be a throttle shaft seal, which will not necessarily reveal itself at idle (trust me, right MiCarl?) Sux, because the other three are textbook yummy.

And if it's not a vacuum leak you need a valve adjustment but I thought you just did one?

 

I hate that this thread just took that turn. you're right about the valve adjustment, thanks for remembering. We Are a Family!

The throttle shaft seals are new too, but how do I know if it's that if I can't check at idle? and my vacume plugs are new too, bla bla bla bla bla, you wouldn't beleive how well the bike runs though. tell ya one thing though, it don't start the way it used to with the open mufflers. I have to give it gas now

 

OK, then if the throttle shaft seals are new, vac plugs new (be sure you don't have a loose nipple) try running the #1 mixture screw in to match the others and see.

There is one other possibility: FLOATS? That would also explain "I hate to give it gas."

OR: the #1 carb still has some pluggage somewhere. (sorry.)

Manifold leak at the head?

You're so close I can taste it...

 

just checked nipple, not loose

turned the mixture screw out a nickels worth earlier and rode 30 miles (after the thread was created), just checked color, no change

I guess I can do clear tube method while the rack's on the engine and center stand down if I do a 'comparative' test to its' friends.

EDIT: Holy Crap could I get a vacum leak through the mixture screw threads if it's out too far? just like the bleeder screw on the claiper...

 

+1, and then some...

What chu talkin bout willis!

*edit* oops, sorry, I misunderstood you.. Yes, I actually ONLY RTV'd the mating surface. Did a smooth once around, and let it dry. (I too had to do it at night before bed. Otherwise I would have figured out a way to rig up 3 fans and a heat lamp beaming on it to dry quicker haha)

 

AAAAaaalllllllrighty then, pulled the rack

did the comparative clear tube check while on the bike and they were the same. my goal tonight became: RTV'n the inside of the intake boot. Main reason being, it's late and it could dry without my anxious ass staring at it. when I removed the boot, it came off so easy, the old silicone was just, well, compromised. the inside of the boot is mint - not RTV'n it. but I cleaned up and remade the mating surface. pray for me, dream of the moment cause tomorrow's Christmas morning!!!

 

ok, rode most of the day yesterday, with the new intake manifold gasket area sealed well. I'm attaching two pics below, the first is after 20 miles on and off the highway, looks better. The second is after 100 miles on the highway, high speed, 70-85, doesn't look that good. Is it good enough to just leave it? just for reference I'll also put a pic of the rest of the plugs at the bottom (but ignore the #1 plug on the left, this pic was taken before the intake gasket work). Thanks