New to me XJ1100

Hi all. I realize that it is better to condense issues with a given bike to a threat for that bike, I had posted earlier about an issue bogging down (which was a fuel starvation issue, not remedied). This thread will serve the ongoing purpose.

I recently added a 1984(Canadian, s/n says 1983) XJ 1100 Maxim to my garage, full vetter windjammer fairing and bags/trunk. This is the first bike I've owned with a windshield, let alone a stereo! My plan is to get it up to current with the maintenance to have a bike to ride for now (it is a known runner), then do much of the similar work to my XJ650 Seca (?TCI issue, and now has sat for a few years). Once both are done, this maxim will be the long-hauler, and the Seca will be my daily run-about.

As I start to go through the laundry list of things to bring an older bike back up to safety, I am thankful that the previous owners have kept it stored inside. While they may think that they have been doing well by it, I have a suspicion that a few key things have been overlooked. The brake lines are stamped 09/83!

So, first things first. This bike has a linked front and back brake through the brake pedal, making it a bit more complex of a system than I am used to. Is it worth replumbing to stock or is converting it to a 2 x front, 1 x rear a thing? Anyone know, off-hand, the lengths of brake hoses needed for a rebuild?

This bike has the crazy vacuum octopus under the tank. It seems to be working, and I think I'd like to keep it. The fuel starvation issue I mentioned before had to do with some of the fuel hose kinking when heated, making me think that it had seen some throw-together work by the PO, any links or resources for just how this thing is supposed to look, or how long the individual fuel and vacuum hose sections should be would be appreciated.

Original fuse box needs to go. Tires are good. Carbs will need a balancing; a proper cleaning too, but hoping that may be put off until the end of the season. Going through the valve checks, and having a heck of a time trying to get the shim out of the #2 intake (using a piece of wire and the "zip-tie" trick). Any suggestions or tips for removing this little bugger, or should I just suck it up and pick up a motion-pro shim tool?

 

I've converted my 81 XS1100 Midnight Special to 2 x front and 1 x rear but added a different set of brake callipers to the front and are using a different master cylinder and you might have to do that on the XJ but I really don't know. The 81 Midnight Special and XJ1100 have exactly the same set up from the factory.
The octopus hoses should be routed as in the picture below. Notice where the T pieces and hoses a located.
3H3-24520-01-00%20Octopus%20Piping by Billy Bananahead, on Flickr
I've got the Motion Pro valve shim tool, it saves a load of mither.

 

Oh man, thanks! That photo speaks. I think I have all the appropriate hardware, but it has been "modified". That pic will help me get it back on straight.

 

There also should be a plumbing diagram of the fuel lines on a sticker under the seat.
The linked brakes are not any more complicated then any other brake system . Keep them as they are , just replace the lines and rebuild the calipers and master cylinder. When bleeding the rear MC start at the front then go to the rear. I like the linked brakes on mine.

 

Well shoot, there it is. Between the photo and the underseat diagram, the plumbing should be easy enough. Thanks

 

Anyone have any experience with the Galfer SS 5-line kit for these bikes? I'm having a heck of a time trying to find brake line kits in Canada, but I have found that these kits sell cheap enough that I may be able to afford MC and Caliper rebuild kits from Chacal.

 

Clearances on all but exhaust on #2 cylinder were tight, some by 2 shim sizes. The motion pro shim tool was well worth the cost! Between that, and a magnet, it was the easiest I have ever done. I decided to bite the bullet and order Chacal's stainless brake lines, as well as a rebuild kit for both master cylinders, and a seals & pistons kit for all calipers. Figured while I was ordering things, that I may as well pick up the fuse box upgrade kit too. Good thing this bike was fairly cheap, this first round of upgrades and tires won't be far off what I would have expected to pay for one of these bikes. Drive oils, fork oil, and bearing checks tomorrow while I wait for my box of goodies to be sent out from xj4ever; tonight, the octopus...

 

With minimal modification of the fuel lines from the underseat diagram I managed to re-plumb the octopus, now complete with in-line filters. I also rounded up some fork oil, gear oil, and engine oil. While trying to open the fill plug on the rear drive housing, I noticed that the #6 Allen bolt was 1) already stripped mostly beyond use, and 2) pretty much seized in there. I've sprayed some penetrating oil onto it and tried to wiggle it, now just hoping some time and luck will help. If not, anyone have any suggestions for how I go about getting this bugger out and replaced? I'll admit I haven't done any major reading for this problem yet, still need to calm down a little.

 

maybe an easy out into the hole you may have to shorten one to get a good fit

or try the ones that are not spiraled

 

That is a common failure and its easy to get out .Get a cold chisel and hammer, use the chisel on the outer edge of the plug light blows with a hammer tapping it counter clockwise it will turn out. Throw it in the trash and go to the parts store and get a hex head oil drain plug the same size. I believe it is 14mmx 1.5 , not 100% sure on that. While you are there get another one for the middle drive gear case, its the same size.

 

take the plug with you to the store then throw it out or buy one from xj4ever so you know its correct maybe he has the rubber insert too for the allen hole.

 

Take your old brake lines to a hydraulics shop (one that does industrial hydraulics for CATs n such) they should be able to make a reproduction steel braided line set.
Its a bit pricey but looks super sharp and is a permanent solution.

 

I likely could have saved a few dollars trying to get a set of lines built at a shop, but needed the m/c and caliper rebuild kits, as well as a few other parts from xj4ever, so figured I may as well pick the lines up from Chacal too; one stop shopping, mostly, and confidence that all the needed parts will be there.

Given that I need to ship stuff from him into Canada, I'm hoping it is as easy as it sounds to source a new plug.

 

The fork oil change has gone uneventfully, nice to have one go like that lately. Figured out that the fill plug on the middle gear was standing just proud enough of the case that I could get a grip on it with a pair of vice grips; success.

The rear drive fill plug didn't come out so easily. I tried the helical style extractor, the hole was too far gone to fit the #4 size extractor. It was suggested that I could cut it shorter to try and get more grip, but I didn't think it would help in this case. I then tried the non helical extractor type, to me it felt like it got a better grip. In the end it just helped bore out the head a little more. Bring on the chisel, punch, and persuador (torch on standby). After putting in a good few slots on the rim of the plug with the chisel, I decided to give the punch a try. Maybe a different angle or hammer direction would help. Finally, success! Now on to sourcing a pair of new plugs, and some anti-seize to go with them.

With the fork oil and seals checked, a quick check of the u-bolt (less than .5" play while in 5th), and now the middle and rear drive oil changed, I am running out of things to do while I wait for my order from Chacal. Beyond finding new middle and rear drive oil plugs, I suppose I should admit that baby needs a new pair of shoes and start reading down that rabbit hole.

 

Glad you were able to get the plugs out without too much hassle. My XS1100 was well kept by the PO and stored inside, but I understand how those caps can be. Did you have a middle gear filler gauge that came with the tool kit? If not they are easy to make to check the amount of oil in that middle chamber.

 

Yeah, I came across the diagram on XS11.com. I'll be making the the measurements onto a zip tie tonight, once I finish up with the bearing checks and greasing. I just went with the volumes from the shop manual as a starting point, will certainly have to make a gauge and check before I button it all back up.

 

For future reference (apoligies for not keeping up on this thread) internal pipe extractors do a fine job on that wallered-out internal hex problem. An impact Torx bit works too (though the tequnique eventually ruins the bit). .

 

I did torx as step one after realizing it was stripped, then tried the screw removal style helical tool (had it), then tried the internal pipe extractor style(Amazon is a dangerous place). The pipe extractor felt much better than the screw extractor, but so the plug was beyond even that. It wound up taking quite a beating with a chisel and punch before letting go. I intend to anti-seize the replacement plugs properly, and likely check it a bit more often then some untold number of years.

 

One, two if you stretch, temporary solutions and a random question...

Solution the potentially temporary:
Found some hex head m12-1.5("single oversize") oil drain plugs that work in the middle gear and final gear fill plug holes. That'll do for now, will have to decide if I want to chase down proper recessed Allen head plugs. Who knows, maybe the hex head will grow on me; it'll be easier to remove if it ever sat undisturbed as long as it had before.

Random question:
How fast do valve wear? If a couple of my valve clearances were out by 2 shim sizes and all but one of the remainder were out by 1 size, is there an anticipated rate of wear for the valves that could very roughly allow me to ball-park how long or how many Km's since their last check/change?

 

Valve checks are to be done every 5,000 miles. Usually you'll have to change one or two shims by one size, and swap one or two around, but that lessens as mileage increases.

I'm on what should be the 5th clearance check for my 750, and the last time I didn't need to change or swap any shims. I probably will need to the next check though.

 

All but 2 intake valves now in spec. Gotta order 2 x 270's.

Now getting ready to go back to work, I was thinking about taking the calipers and M/c's with me to rebuild during my down time. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the sensor wire out of the front m/c. Anyone have some photos or tips?

 

brake switch? or fluid level sensor?

 

Fluid level sensor.

 

leave it in, you will break it if you try to take it out. Just unplug the wires inside the headlight bucket. The brake light switch comes out easy by pushing the locking tab in with a small screwdriver and pulling it out

 

if sensor does not work chacal sells replacement or resistor bypass for warning light.

@chacal likely could tell you how to remove it

 

Sensor works. Just unplugged it from the headlight. Will cease any further efforts at removal, and work to clean around it. Thanks for the timely advice!

 

When replacing brake lines with stainless steel ones from Chacal, the red taped end goes towards or away from the master cylinder? I'm sure I have it written down somewhere, but figured someone here could likely tell me.

 

Nvmnd. Found it. Tagged end to termination point.

 

Ignorance was bliss. As I am in the thick of a complete brake line, m/c, and caliper rebuild, I find myself shaking my head at the highway rides I did take. Lots of gunk and grime; thankfully settled into low points in the system.

 

Getting a little frustrated with my rear master cylinder. I have pulled it apart a few times now, and it'll compress and spring back easily a few times (when put in lubed up) but quickly begins to stiffen and fail to spring back out all the way.

I have dismantled and cleaned every orifice, took some 0000 steel wool to the piston bore, wire brushed the old piston; taking care to make sure the seal seat was clean. There is a little pitting in the cylinder, but nothing that strikes me as major. It was working before I took it apart and replaced the seals. Maybe time to look for a new piston for it?

 

This.

We have a Pirtek franchise in town, see if you got one nearby. They sell hose that is teflon-cored, stainless braided, and covered in vinyl over stainless. It will probably outlast the bike, even as long-lived as Yamahas are, and maybe even survive some kind of an apocalypse.

 

I decided to get the braided stainless lines and rebuild kits from Chacal; great service by the way.

The current hang up is the piston in the rear master cylinder. Polished the cylinder bore with 0000 steel wool, took some of the weathering off the piston with a wire brush. Without seals, the piston moves free and clear. With the seals in place, and red grease on them, the piston will spring back for a few cycles then begin to bind up in the bore.

The rebuild kit I ordered doesn't come with a new piston. I'm wondering if the old piston is too corroded, or maybe a little bent, causing the hang up? Otherwise, there is some minor pitting in the cylinder bore, but I didn't think it looked bad enough to cause problems. At this point I am considering ordering the complete rebuild kit from Chacal, or trying to source a used master cylinder; any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.

 

Pulled it apart again. Got a pic of the worst of the pitting. Does this look bad enough to be what's sticking things up?

 

That's pretty bad. I'd look for a replacement master, or have that one sleeved.

 

Ya that looks bad and you did a great job of making it clean and shiny. It just looks like a new or better one is in order. How are the internals? The spring and the rubber?

 

Spring and rubber are good. I think the piston is too. Either way, I found a used cylinder from a salvage outfit in BC (New Life Salvage), reportedly working. I also started looking for places that will sleeve my old one; 37 year old parts can't be getting any easier to find.

So now it is on to the fuse box, just about to get the soldering iron. I have it all rigged up with tape and zip-ties to get everything sitting nicely.

 

Nearing done on the fuses. Main 30A fuse replaced with an inline blade style holder, same with the 2A fuse behind the headlight. Got the four main fuses all changed over successfully. Now just stuck on the auxiliary DC terminal block. The wires from either side of the fuse have been moved over to the new box, leaving a third wire (I am guessing "ground") to be placed. Can anyone confirm if this is in fact a ground? Also, any advise on where to move or connect this wire to would be appreciated.

 

Got my replacement rear m/c from BC early this week. Everything seemed to be in working order, but I threw the new seals on anyway. Spent a day cursing that wretched portioning valve system, and bleeding every connection, and still failing to get brake pressure.


Given a blocking plug, it may have been easier to prime the forward and rearward sections of the system individually. I did not have one, though, so can't really weigh in on that.


Not being the sharpest bowling ball in the shed, it didn't dawn on me all at once. I figured out that if you try to bleed it with the rear caliper in place, there is a high point in the line before any connectors. So I took it off, hung it from the side so the caliper was the high point and took the palm sander (without paper) to it. And worked out a good burp of air. Still, though, no brakes. The slow realization was that a similar problem existed in the forward section, in the hardline that follows along and under the frame. It rises to an apex behind the head tube. So I disconnected the hardline and freed it from the frame so I could hang it from the handlebar with a zip tie in such a way that the opening was the high point, and bled it to the end of that line. I tied it back into the system and bled my way out each connection toward the caliper. Finally...brakes!

So now she is safe for the road this season, with a scheduled maintenance calendar to finish up all the little bits.

To recap, I've done: the valve clearances, adjusted timing chain tension, new SS brake lines to replace the original '83 rubbers, rebuilt all three calipers, and both master cylinders. The oil and filter has been changed, as has the middle and final drive oils and fork oil. Front and rear suspension air pressures topped up, and holding. New, modern, fuse box is installed, along with two inline fuse holders. New hose and clamps for the octopus, with in-line fuel filters. Carbs balanced after shim change. No play notable in wheel or head bearings.

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a runner! She likes to pull. Smiles for miles. Now on to the process of tuning by plug chop.

Outstanding within the next year: A complete carb overhaul, petcock rebuilds, change wheel and head bearings, new shoes, and cosmetics.