New wiring...

So I used Dwcopple's wiring diagram and I felt that I plugged everything in right... its all rigged up other than my tail light. When I turn the ignition I get my headlight but have no crank at all. I checked all my grounds and nothing. I have an aftermarket blade fuse box and all the fuses are good. Anyone have any input...? Someone help I need to ride to work on monday!

 

If everything works but the starter, test the solenoid. Take a screwdriver and touch the two contacts where the wires hook up. You're essentially touching the two wires together when you do this. There's not that much between the battery and the starter. If the starter turns the problem is in most likely in the ignition somewhere. Safety switches, relay, etc.

 

I just did it and the starter did in fact turn... so now what?

 

Umm, if it were me I might turn the key to on and jump the solenoid like you just did and see if it starts. My start button went out and the PO rigged a Switch up which cut out the solenoid.

 

Thats what I did the first time... It cranked but no start?

 

It will of course need fixed, that's kinda just a quick fix to get you going on Monday. You're start button could have gone out, could be a safety switch preventing the start button from working, or a corresponding relay.

 

I tested the start button with a test light and it seemed fine. Everything worked a few days ago before I pulled the wiring so I dont think its a faulty button. I bought a new starter solenoid today so thats good. Voltage reg worked fine. Cant think of anything else except bad wiring and I studied that diagram for hours so I am pretty sure im all routed up right.

 

I don't know the quickest way to troubleshoot this but I can help you get started on trying to figure this out. I'm pretty sure if you hooked a safety switch up wrong, that would only prevent the starter from turning, not prevent the coils from sparking. the one thing I know that does kill the coils is the kill switch. I would pull the tank and find the wiring connector for buttons on the handlbar switches. test for continuity between the 2 wires for the kill switch, if there's continuity when on, it works and you can count that out.

 

I should probably ask what new wiring you did, I'm assuming a new wiring harness for some reason.

 

Can you link to the diagram you used please?

I need to see what you are working with to make any useful suggestions.

 

This is the diagram that I used...

 

Easy then.
1. Check for power at the starter solenoid when the ignition switch is on(red/white).
If yes, go to 2
If no - trace back and fix the ignition switch or wiring to it

2. check for power on the other side of the soleniod at the starter switch with ignition on (blue/white).
If yes go to 3
If no trace wiring back to solenoid

3.Same test as 2, but push the starter button
Power drops to zero when pushed - should start
Power does not drop - switch faulty or black ground to switch missing.

Post results.

 

Passed all three tests... but again I only used a test light because I dont own a multimeter.

 

It should work.

Next test, put test light ground on the blue white wire at the solenoid and the positive to the red white wire at the solenoid, ignition on, hit the starter switch.

If it lights up, it will be a solenoid problem (providing it is actually getting 12v not say 4v)

 

Solenoid is brand new I bought it today...

 

I bought some wire from autozone its a pretty heavy gauge wire. but I spliced it in where the original wire was eaten up would that affect it at all?

 

It can, match the original wires guage as close as you can!! The heavy wire can cause a current lose which will have the same effect/symptoms as a weak battery.

 

Heavier gauge wire will not "create a current loss," a larger diameter wire will flow more current because it has less resistance. The greater the cross-sectional area of the conductor, the easier it is for electrons to more through it.

Of course, if you splice in a larger gauge wire with a smaller gauge, make sure your splice is proper for that step up, or you could get a bad splice that creates extra resistance and breaks loose.

 

Does the starter still spin if you bypass the solenoid?

 

The smaller the wire gauge, the larger the ampacity that the wire can handle. Wire ampacity is the safe amount of current that a wire can handle without getting hot or causing a fire. The lager the wire the LESS current it will carry. In othter words if the wire is TOO LARGE it will not carry the current need to start your bike. Its like hooking up your water tap to a fire hose just aint going to work to well!

 

Just a shot in the dark, but have you looked at your kickstand safety cut off switch?

 

Yeah it did. It just wouldnt start

 

The wire I used is about the same size as the OEM wiring...

 

The sidestand safety switch wires were cut right at the base... wouldnt that be the same as running without it plugged in though which doesnt cause a problem?

 

on the IGN switch there are three points... IGN, ACC, and BAT what wires should I have on what?

 

NOPE. If the rest of the "safety" stuff (like the cutout relay) is in place, the sidestand switch has to be bypassed not left "open" for it to not interfere.

 

Dont know anything about a cutout relay... I just ran the blue and green wire to the ignitor and the black to ground from the sidestand safety cut off tried to start in both open and closed positions and still nothing?

 

Do the safety switches actually kill the engine, or just prevent cranking with the start button?

 

Im pretty sure I dont have any safety switches connected...?

 

Both.

 

So I re did all the wiring again for the 3rd time... good news is that it worked for only about a minute. I got her going of my wifes car battery ( no car wasnt running) it ran at really high idle for about a minute and then just died. I tried to start it again and nothing. I have light with my key in the on position but no ignition. I checked all my fuses and they are all good. What now? im making progress I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

 

Is this actually rewired (neat and tidy with new connections and fuse holders) to the diagram you put up?

Or have you just modified the 30 year old harness?

If the problem comes and goes it is normally connections.

If you don't have a charged battery in good condition, stop now and address the issue.

The test results you gave earlier should have resulted in a working system.

 

Well its not all neat and tidy but it ran nothing was touching anything it shouldnt have... the battery is pretty much dead it powers the headlight but its very dim. I think my wife fried the cables and they arent giving and juice to the bike battery.

 

SO I went and got new cables and hooked them up... still nothing so that wasnt the problem...? any one know what the cause could be? again all my fuses are good.

 

Multimeter time.

You have said there is power to one side of the solenoid, and the starter switch grounds the other side.

Based on that, if the voltage is around 12v and the solenoid is functional it has to work. (Assuming there is also a fat + battery connection to one side of the solenoid and one to the starter. Big ground wire from - to engine).

If this was my local forum, this is the point when I would come around for a look.

 

I wish you were closer I am about to bring this to a shop if I dont figure this out tomorrow. Yes the starter still turns when I ground it with a screwdriver. The headlight comes on when the key is on but I have absolutely nothing from my start button even with the car battery connected. Im losing my patience with this bike and I have only had it a week. any chance something was wired wrong that allowed it to start but killed/ fried it when it ran?

 

and yes there is a very thick gauge wire from the solenoid to positive and from neg to ground.