NGK BP7ES Gapping from new and clutch adjustment XJ650

Hi all,
Just wondering.. I recently purchased a set of BP7ES plugs for my XJ650 and am wondering if they are the correct gap when taken out of the box or do I have to set the gap.?
What would happen if the gap wasn't set correctly.?

And...What is the best way to adjust the clutch and how will I know when I have it bang on.?
I have being adjusting from the lever end but I believe due to potential cable stretch this inst the best method.
Any advice would be welcome.
Thank you all.
Morg.

 

Morg,

Autoparts Store...at the counter...inexpensive plug gap tool...inches on top, mm on bottom. Grab a tube of Anti-sieze while you're there if you don't already have any. Always check your plug gaps before installing new plugs and anytime you remove them for colortuning, compression testing or any other general maintenance. Then you'll know. Mis-firing plugs is not a good thing. Also make sure your HT caps are screwed on tight (w/o stripping them) and the resistance electrodes inside HT caps #2 and #3 are screwed in tight. Add a dap of Anti-sieze to the threads and you should be good to go.
I'd have to look it up, but there is a measurement in your Manual that tells you how much space should be between the front of the handle and the mount right before you start to engage the clutch (when the handle is touching the mount to when you start to engage the clutch by pulling on the handle). The measurement is not much. When I replaced my clutch plates, I made loose both adjustments, found a decent median at both to where I can adjust my clutch cable as my plates wear w/o bottoming out of threads at either adjustment. I tightend both adjustments until I was at the Manual measurement and then "tweeked" the bottom adjustment to feel. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

Thanks Gary.
Much appreciated.
I have an old feeler gauge for gapping..Belonged to my dad.
When we were kids we just used the width of a piece of a cigarette box as a gauge..How times have changed. We reckoned back then that all Yams had the same gap spec even the old air cooled RD's.. Or even a Kellogg s Cornflakes box to make gaskets lol..

 

Spark Plug Gap: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=34431.html

General clutch adjustment procedure: Put the adjuster at the handlebar at about halfway in/out.

Then adjust the cable mount at the bottom to remove almost all of the slack in the cable.

"Fine adjust" at the top, you want 1mm ~ 3mm of free play which isn't much. Just enough to make sure you aren't pulling the clutch in when you turn the bars to full lock.

This assumes your throwout lever is in the correct "starting" position. There is a "pointer" of sorts on the butt end of the lever, and a "pip" on the case. When the end of the lever is pushed as far forward as you can push it by hand, the pointer on the heel of the lever should line up with the 'pip' on the case.

It may be necessary to reposition the throwout lever on its splines for the correct "starting" position.

 

Here's the detailed clutch adjustment procedure:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... cable.html

 

This is the distance that the THROW-OUT ARM needs to be placed at for sufficient disengagement of the clutches.

 

Morg,

Just so you know...the 0.028" ~ 0.032" = 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm.

Gary