oil coming out of drive shaft boot?????????????

ok i have been on here reading alot about my bike and even got some great help in getting it running. But i have never read anything on oil dripping from the rubber boot.
Had it out for the first time in 2 years due to swapping my 650 for a 750 and discovered this leak so im hoping someone can help me and tell me it wont be expensive.

 

(Deleted)

 

I got a three page thread about that. But my problem was that I had gas in my crankcase, so it along with a mix of oil, escaped from the O-ring on my driveshaft.
This was my very FIRST post, so i got a lot of info out of it.
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15369.html
My suggestion would be (If its not gas/oil mix) to replace the O ring around your drive shaft.
Got pics??
-SLKid

 

SL. after reading your post im starting to think i have the same issue cause i forgot to take it off prime :cry: but an oil change was in line for this weekend so im hoping that takes caer of it.

 

Whew buddy.. yeah that sucked a lot. Cause it lead me to belive i had SOOO many other problems! I coulda just changed the oil and ran her! But no, i replaced the air filter, rebuilt my carbs, new oil and oil filter and a couple other minor things like new battery before I even thought about starting her. I guess thats a good thing. This old bike really needed all the stuff that I did to it. My suggestion to you is to do the same. You're gonna have to do all that stuff eventually, so might as well do it now and have a great bike for a couple years before you gotta do it again.
When you change the oil (10w40 or 20w50 Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle oil is probably best 4.85 a quart) Put some SeaFoam in the crankcase and run her around for about 30-50 miles and change the oil again. She'll love you i promise. Also put some SeaFoam in your gas tank if you havent put an InLine filter on yet. It'll be great for your carbs
-SLKid

 

yeah im glad its only the oil change. As far as replacing stuff i have an extra 750 i am going to rebuild so i was hoping not to have to put much into this motor. How hard would the seal be to replace?

 

Umm.. Dunno actually. That drive shaft would have to be removed I'd assume. So the Rear Final Drive would have to be removed. Probably a lot easier than it sounds. Everything else on this bike has proved it to be

 

It's NOT expensive IF you replace the Oil Seal.

It's not expensive if you add-in replacing the Swing Arm Bearings, too.

The Brakes, Wheel, Shocks, Diff, Shaft and Swing have to come off.
You need to pull the Engine-side of the Universal Joint Output Shaft.
There a Big Hex Nut on the Shaft.
Once that's out of the way you can get to the Oil Seal Cover.
The Cover comes off. Some have a gasket, Some O-rings,
There's the Seal. Yank that Baby. Its messy.
Put on a New Seal.
Put everything back together.

Everything on this job is straight-up Un-do and Re-do after you tap in the New Seal.
BUT, <--- That's a BIG BUT!
I have seen guys lose HUGE Time getting the Drive Shaft End back into the Splined U-Joint Housing.
Make a "Gig" out of a wire Coat Hanger. Bent the end of the wire to make a "U" with the wire bent back down on one side so the U is open at the top.
Use the Gig to guide the end of the Shaft into the Splines.
Waste a Roll of Paper Towels stuffing the U-Joint from flopping around.
I can see light bulbs comin'-on over everybody's head. Good.