Oil pan removal question

I have the exhaust off my bike and am taking care of some issues that have developed but been on the backburner during the riding season. One of the jobs is to replace the neutral safety switch as discussed in another thread. While I was preparing to take off the mounts I started looking at the oil pan and started thinking that while I was at it...why not replace the oil pan gasket? Part of me is wondering if I will have to do it anyway after the neutral switch. Darned oil leak...

So here's the question: once I take out the oil pan screws, will the oil pan drop out without raising the motor? It looks like it will, but I thought I better check. I don't want to get the pan off and then have to muck around raising the motor or taking the motor out.

Thanks.

 

I believe the pan comes of without disturbing the engine mounts, as it is mentioned in other fixes with engine in frame.

If you remove the battery and gas tank, you can lay the bike over on a make-shift work bench if you want.

 

The Cases don't have Gaskets.
The Mating Surfaces are treated with an Oil-tight Sealant.
(The Factory Manual says: YamaBond #4)
YamaBond #4 is a gray-colored Sealant.

Yamaha makes Motorcycles, ATV's, Boat Engines, Pianos, Musical Instruments and Consumer Electronics and a list of other things.

They don't refine Oil and are not in the Chemical Business.

Permatex MotoSeal-1 Ultimate Gasket Maker is a Sealant.
Comes in a Squeexe Tube with Screw-on Top.
Has all the properties of YamaBond #4
Another funny thing, ... It's gray!

 

I'll have to trust Rick on the case halves, never having split them myself, but I don't think that was your question.

The oil pan does have a gasket (at least, mine did and does). And, yes, the oil pan is removable with the engine mounted... only the exhaust needs to be removed, which you've already done. Just looked up the SKU for the gasket and its 4BB-13414-00-00. Should be about $14 from a dealer.

When I dropped my oil pan, part of the gasket stayed attached to the pan and part of it stayed attached to the engine. I ended up cutting a new one rather than ordering one, since I didn't want to leave the bike apart for long. The one tricky part of cutting one that is that there's a little island piece of the gasket that seals an oil tube that runs between the pan and the engine.

 

Hack, before you drop the pan make sure your leak is not coming from the oil sending unit (on the bottom of the pan). It's an easy fix with the exhaust off and since you are doing the neutral switch you might as well take care of it

 

I've got a new oil level switch and o-ring in the parts order. The old one hasn't worked for awhile. I'm definitely in "might as well" territory.

Thanks for the information. Have a good weekend.