please help before i throw this bike away

I have a 82 xj550 maxim my bike has 4 pod filters on it and aftermarket slip ons. The main jet is 125 and the pilot jet is 40 the screws on top are turned out 1.5 turns I got the bike to idle fine. But sometimes it sputters and sometimes dnt start good. Its getting like 22mpg . And also sometimes the #1carb leaks gas out of the air filter someone please help. Oh yeah it runs kinda rich too my plugs turn black as soon as new ones go in.

 

If you've got gas coming out of the air filter, the float needle is not seating correctly, or the float level is incorrect. This is a common problem with any carburetor with this sort of age. The rubber (viton?) tip on the needle (it acts like an on-off valve) deteriorates and gas leaks by it. This will make the carb overfill with gas, and it will overflow out of the back, and also flow into the engine where it dilutes the oil, risking engine damage and general crappy running.

 

So change the float needle for that Carb? What about my other problems

 

Well I'm sure that there are many threads about tuning with pod filters so I will not comment on that.

Gas out of the air filter means your float is NOT adjust correctly. Do a search on how you adjust your bowl floats. I would check all four.

You need to to provide more info. You say it idles good but it sometime sputters or dies? At idle?

Plugs are black after idling? High RPM ride?

A bit more info will go along way.

 

I would say you need to take the carbs off and do a good cleaning. Your problems tell me the floats are over filling and/or level too high. With your 22 mpg the chokes may not be closing also.
If you don't want to put the time and money into making those pods run, get a stock airbox and install it. It will save lots of aggravation. Pods are possible but it takes time, there is no set jetting.
Pull the carbs and clean. Do all the required carb cleaning and tuning...NO SHORTCUTS.
Don't forget to check the valve clearences.

If you still want to give up on it, just leave it in my shop. I'll take care of it.

 

Does the bike "make oil"? That is, does it look strangely overfilled? Drain a bit out and smell it. If it smells like gas, drain it all, change the filter, and put in fresh oil. Also, it's time to pull the carbs off, replace the float valves (needles, whatever, the little plunger the float controls, I can never remember the proper names for them), thoroughly clean out the jets, emulsion tube, idle speed circuit (lots of small holes, extremely easy to get hopelessly jammed with junk), and take the time to PROPERLY set the float level (it's important).

Once you get all that squared away, it's time to adjust your valves. Not exactly glamorous, but it will protect the engine from damage (like burned valves). Doing it frequently might just save your engine; you will be able to verify if a valve is stretching, and you will have a chance to replace it before it breaks off and punches a hole through your piston and bends the connecting rod and trashes the head.

Don't let that freak you out, just adjust them. There is a very good thread on here somewhere with step-by-step instructions on how to do it.

 

Don't just replace one float needle, replace them all. Remenber..NO SHORTCUTS.
If a part in one carb is bad most likley the others are not far behind. Think about replacing the throttle shaft seals.

 

OK here's more info. I cleaned the carbs and changed the jets 3 days ago. And the plugs turn black after high rpms or idling. I didn't want to rejet but had to I bought bike with no air filters and the main where jeted to 125. Already all I want is the bike to idle and start up good. And get more than 22mpg I hate these pod filter but it seemed like best to do since I couldn't find stock air box and it was half jeted.

 

This types of problems have to be tackled one at a time. You've got multiple problems, so you just have to check off one task at a time until you've done everything.

Time consuming and a pain in the butt. Yes.

Worth the effort? Definitely. That thing will run forever when you get it right.

+1 on what was said about the pod filters. A lot of trial and error to tune right. Cool looking, though.

 

What they all said! But it's important to specify, check them valves first, before you attempt any more carb tuning. It won't get you out of carb tuning but it is necessary to do proper carb tuning.

 

Let me ad also I know vary liltle about bikes. I'm a car mechanic and bikes are way more diffent than I imagianed

 

I don't know what the original jet sizes are supposed to be...

Do the chokes shut all the way?

Are the float levels set correctly? (important)

was there a lot of sediment in the float bowls? Sometimes debris holds the needle off of the seat, overfilling the carb.

Also, if your crankcase is full of gasoline, it will get forced up past the rings and foul the plugs, making it look like it's running rich.

 

Well, they work on the same theories. They are just much more finicky about having everything perfect.

I did the most half-ass rering job on my daily driver a few weeks ago, and it runs great. Would I do that to any bike? Not unless I wanted to push it for a few miles.

Some things need to be done as near as perfect as possible. This is one of those things.

Where are you located?

 

I'm not sure how to check or set float levels but no I cleaned carbs 2x in one week and nothing real dirty in there

 

I'm not sure how to check or set float levels but no I cleaned carbs 2x in one week and nothing real dirty in there

 

Yeah, with 4 carbs and high rpms, it's not gonna be like a car (just put gas in it and it goes). Most issues will come back to the carbs. Gotta be cleaned and synced. If you have auto mechanic skills and patience to learn = good!

 

I'm in Michigan

 

Michigan is well represented here!

 

here

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... eghts.html

 

Ok.

First step, figure out what the float level is supposed to be (I gave up my books when I sold my XJ. Theres a particularly disturbing thread on here somewhere describing how that all worked out).

One you get that dimension, take the bowl off, flip it upside down, and measure the gap between the lowest point of the float to the carb body. This is the float height. It's adjusted by veeeery gently bending the tab that contacts the needle valve. Do not mash the needle into it's seat, or you will permanently damage the tip. Take your time, tweak it until it's perfect.

Having a book with pictures would be very helpful. Someone on here is bound to have pics/scans/very crude MSPaint drawings of what this is supposed to look like.


*Edit*

About 30 people beat me to it.

 

OK so I need to adjust floats check valves what about my jet sizes does what I have for jets sound right to anyone? From what I gathered stock is 112.5 main and 29 pilot I have 125 and 40.

 

There's no way to tell until those other things are taken care of first.

 

These dam carbs are the biggest headache ever am I better off finding stock airbox and putting stock jet sizes? Or is there anyone in Michigan that knows a lot about this stuff that I can just bring the bike to u.

 

One more thing the Carb doesn't leak all the time maybe once or twice a week only after its sat for a day or two

 

*edit*

If you're frustrated with it, taking it all back apart is going to make it worse right now. Take a break, and spend a while reading threads on what other people have done.

 

Try to keep Adjusting Float Heights as simple and as Fool Proof as you can.

Using the Clear Tube Method, ... Measure all 4 Float Heights and determine which is best or needs the least correction to be within Specs according to the Factory Manual.

>>FLOAT HEIGHT SPECS<<


Measure the Height of the Float which best falls within specs.
Measure the Height of the TOP of the Float from the Base of the Carb Body.
Set the Floats needing adjustment to the precise height of the one you determined was closest too (or) perfect height.

MECHANICS POCKET RULE w/ TOOTHPICK INDICATOR HEIGHT TOOL.

 

Thanks for the pics but does anyone have ideas about the running rich problem and my jet sizes I have

 

The float problem could be the running rich problem. They will never be right until you get the floats right!

 

Really? Well that's good to know.

 

Jumbin Jesus on a pogo stick, are you ADHD or what?


There is no point in doing anything unless you know your valves are in spec, then a complete carb cleaning as has been outlined and gone over and over and over ad nauseum on this site, including a bench sync, float level adjustment, and finally a vac sync and colortune (or plug chop at least).

If you arent willing of capable of doing those basics you are wasting your time and the time of all those that are trying to help you.


my advice? Take your jets out, take them and your checkbook to the nearest honda dealer and trade them for one of THESE

 

Ouch.

 

+ 1 on the ouch.....

 

+2 on the ouch. as much i hate to admit it. cleaning the carbs has solved a lot of probs on here. Mine are scheduled for this fall. not looking forward to it but after many hours of looking and reading these guys know what there talking about do as they say. If that doesnt fix it they will get you there.
PS if your gonna own a bike do your self a favor n learn to fix it your self.

 

At least four people have told you the exact same thing.

You said you're a car mechanic. If that's the case, I'm sure you're familiar with the idea of a SERVICE MANUAL. You need one.

You say you have no idea how to set the floats, or adjust the valves, etc. That's what a service manual is for, augmented with the information you will find on this site.

GET A BOOK. The Clymer book is OK, the factory manual is better. STUDY IT.

It does no good to ask the same questions over and over and be given the same answers, and not respond by actually DOING what's being suggested. Your immediate issue is float levels (and the carbs in general.) Meanwhile, you need to get the valves checked and adjusted. That IS the answer to an overly rich condition (especially with pods) and the gas-drippy thing. Fix the damn float levels already.

Exactly approximately where are you in our fair State?

 

The poster of this thread started out by saying the bike is running rich and gas was leaking from one of the carbs.

I would like to make a suggestion here. Most of the members are thinking that the carbs are like the Hatachi carbs with screw in seats with flat gaskets for the floats. If this bike has Mikuni carbs the seats are held in with little crow foot retainers and there are o-rings on the outside of the seats. I find that you can have the float levels set dead nuts dry but wet clear tube the float bowls overflow. You rip your hair out and then you figure that the o-rings are either shrunk or the wrong ones and the fuel by-passes the seats all togeather. I would suggest at this point to check those o-rings and set the floats wet with the clear tube method.
This member can set his valves all day long but if the carbs are leaking gas all over the place it won't make any difference. We all know valve settings are improtant but he needs to sort out one thing at a time. Lets tackle one problem at a time.

MN

 

jkustomz28...I think that bike is junk...you're never gonna get it running right. 8O Best thing to do is just roll it to the curb along with any parts or accessories you might have. I can bring my trailer over there and remove the unsightly pile of stuff so your neighbors don't get angry... :roll: . where in Michigan did you say you live?!?

 

Please don't let us mechanics down. I am a mechanic, and this is how you do it.

I bought a XJ750 that had not run for over a year.
I removed the carbs and found them full of crap. Did a quick clean and refitted them, changed the plugs, checked the oil and fired up the bike.

Once I knew I had a functional engine, I removed the carbs for a proper strip down (and found XJbikes.com and a shop manual)
Both XJbikes and the manual made it clear that the valve clearances needed to be checked BEFORE syncing the carbs. Easy - just do it.

6,000 miles later, I still have a bike I can rely on.

 

OK. So I live in garden city and for everyone telling me that I'm not listening I am. I'm just asking questions so I know the steps to take I understang check valves first. Then set float levels. But I was also asking if my jet sizes sounded right to anyone. Cuz if they sound to big I rather order more and when I pull carbs again to set float then I just change the while they r off.

 

Auto "mechanics" are a breed all their own lol

 

Stock jet sizes are listed in this post: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=169541.html

But, with pods, I have no idea what you're going to need to do to get the right jetting.

Do you know whether the bike ever ran correctly with the pods? If you only want to do things once, you may want to get a stock air box, stock air filter, carb boots, and stock jets, and just go back to original configuration.

By the way, here's a used air box for $55. http://www.drumhillcycle.com/index.cfm/ ... /3,3879348

 

I can understand the logic in that

 

OK, now we're getting somewhere.

Please add Garden City to your profile and your bike info to your sig.

XJ4Ever has a basic set of "guidelines" for jetting for various changes to intake (pods) and exhaust; it can be found here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14692.html almost at the bottom of the page. That should at least get you in the ballpark, jetting wise.

The carbs will need to come off the bike to do an accurate wet-set of the floats anyway.

 

smurf, you can't steal my avitar, getoutahere.

 

You can set the fuel levels before getting the valves in spec', they are not connected, just 2 parts of the one big picture.

 

Lol, I haven't stolen your avatar, in fact I've only just noticed that they are similar, but NOT the same

 

Nottingham, you can have the flag of St George or Robin Hood's hat......

 

It's the British flag, and yes I probably could get a flag of St George or Robin Hoods hat, if I wanted, but I don't want either of them. Anyway, this seems to be going off topic.

 

I said "meanwhile." Since the valve check/adjust procedure usually involves ordering shims and possibly a gasket, and the carbs will likely need some bits as well; it's often more practical to do the two procedures simultaneously since the bike is down/apart anyway. That way, when the carbs are done and ready to go back on, the valves are already good to go.

 

ALSO:

Smurf, I think the flag of St. George would be cool instead of us confusing you with that cranky old guy...

Wiz has been here since Christ shot pool. You should switch.