Powder Coating Parts

Not sure in which of the forums this would fit. Hope this is acceptable.

After years now of trying to make my XJs look as good as they run, I got tired of crappy looking parts. I just can't ever seem to make some parts look right with paint, so I took the plunge and bought some powder coating gear.

I got the standard Craftsman setup. $149 on sale till the 21st.

I don't have a spare oven so I'm using an old toaster oven. Needless to say, that limits the size of the parts I can work on at this point.

So far, I've actually only worked on some parts for my Harley. In particular, I took the covers off the speedo and tach which were painted black and looking pretty rough after 19 years on the road. I sand blasted them and cleaned them with mineral spirits.

The spraying process couldn't be simpler. Connect a ground to the part and have at it.

I have to say, the results are nothing short of amazing. 20 minutes later they look as good if not better than new. I guess because of the electrostatic process, it's more or less impossible to not get a nice even coat. There are no runs, no orange peal. Just a nearly perfect finish with virtually no work.

Considering how many parts we just can't get for our XJs, I think this is a process that can really help keep them looking good. My understanding is that a powder coat finish is much stronger than paint. It's certainly easier to do and requires less equipment for a really professional setup.

I'm going to start working on some XJ parts tomorrow and I've already decided that I need a full sized oven to dedicate to this.

Anyone else have any experience with powder coating? Any tips or tricks that I should know?

Greg

 

Don't cure anything in the house is about the only thing I hear time after time.

 

The coolest (kinda ghetto) setup I've seen was behind my buddy's garage -- he got an old restaurant oven, cut a slot into the top of it so he could hang parts inside from wires outside, and used that.

Stank to high-heaven when curing parts, but damn it worked well.

 

It is 100% more durable then painting, and the best thing in the world to do a frame instead of painting it. The only drawback is you can't powdercoat over body fillers so you have to have metal objects that are in perfect condition. I'd love to have a perfect tank to PC , it would sure resist those rock chips better, but once dented your stuck painting.

 

I've been toying with the idea of a powder coater for a long time now and I think with your recent leap - I'll do the same. Thanks for posting!

 

Powdercoating is the way to go. Just be careful not to overbake it. If it's cooked too long the powder coat becomes brittle and will chip easily.

As for filling, there are some fillers that can be used but they are expensive. I use a product called Devcon Aluminium Putty. Sets like steel and can withstand the heat.

And don't forget the old fashioned filler. Lead.


I'm lucky, I have a 3x3x3 metre powdercoating oven and all the professional gear. My bike bits all get coated.

 

Thanks for the input. As I posted earlier, this works really well. I've done a number of parts now and the results are just stunning.

So far, I've only done parts in flat black. I'm curious to find out if gloss colors are any more difficult.

Sears sells about a dozen and a half different colors. I also found that there's a lot of powder available on eBay. Anyone know what type of store one might go to locally to buy powder? Auto body shop? Paint shop?

Greg

 

I always see this stuff on Eastwood's site. Check them out.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/index.jsp

 

How about Caswell Plating?

Fraps beat me to Eastwood's site 8)

 

Thanks. I found lots of stuff on line. I was hoping to find something local. Impatience is killing me.

Greg

 

Gee, you've inspired me... I'm seriously looking at that craftsman powdercoating setup you are talking about. I've also been watching for ovens on CraigsList in hope I can snag one for about $50 to keep in my shop.


Does anyone know if powdercoatings can withstand exhaust temps?

I've been thinking of redoing my exhaust as the chrome is pretty shoddy and it could use a good clean look.

Also, would this craftsman setup be about the same quality as a powdercoating shop would provide?

 

The Craftsman setup is on sale for $149 till the 21st. My understanding is that the chemistry is the same as the pros would use, so it, theoretically, can yield the same results. I think this is a lot like painting. Results depend on prep work and operator skill. I can't believe the quality of my initial results and so far, I'm only using a toaster oven. I scored on Craig's List though. A guy emailed me who has an old oven that he's happy to get rid of for free. I'll be getting it in a couple of weeks.

As far as temp goes, that's a question I'd like to know too. I do know that Eastwood sells a line of 'high temp' powders that should withstand the temp, but I suspect normal powders might.

I have questions about heat in the opposite direction. I'd love to powder a set of XJ heads, but I don't know how much powder insulates. I'm afraid that the engine might not cool enough if it were powdered.

Greg

 

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/prod ... oductID=91

 

As long as it's a reasonably thin coat, I don't think it'd be a major worry. People paint them all the time, and I'd think paint would be worse than the powdercoat.

I've found some websites on both sides of the fence. Most interesting bit I found was saying that if you could find the ceramic coating stuff - that actually increases your heat transfer.

 

Harbor Freight has a unit and sells the paint. Hit their website.

 

Answers to a couple of the questions.

Geebake, No difference in prep or coating between matt and gloss. Huge difference in the finish. :wink: Go the gloss black. Looks Puuuurdy.


Gremlin, I have yet to find a powder that can be allpied with standard powdercoating gear that can withstand exhaust temps. Most of the coated exhausts are given a ceramic coating which is a different application method. Look very carefully at what temp a high temp coating is supposed to withstand.

Standard powders are baked at 200 degrees celcius for ten minutes. Most exhausts reach/exceed this temp in normal/hard riding effectively overbaking the powder and removing the adhesion to the surface. Will be peeling and looking shoddy by the third ride. Ceramics also require a hotter oven temp for baking.

I powdercoated my muffler once. Lasted about six months before it started peeling where the 4 to 1 headers went into the muffler.

fFor headers, even I use 1500 F spray paint.

Hope this helps
HG

 

Personally Geebake, I wouldn't. Powdercoating alloy parts brings a whole new set of rules for powdercoating.

For a LASTING job on alloy it requires a chemical etching for the powder to adhere properly. Also must be spotlessly (as in Rick type patience) clean. On a head this means ANY oxidation in between all those fins must be removed. Bead blasting will work but cost a few bucks.

Then it must be chemically etched using an etching solution. I use a product called Keybond. Basically 10 to 30 percent phosphoric acid and a mixture of other chemicals.

Then it goes into a chromate dip. Not sure whats in that cause I take all my alloy stuff to the powdercoaters next door for dipping in thier tank.

Then powdercoat as usual.

An important point to note is that powdercoatig is hard to remove. Sandblasters will generally charge more to remove as it takes longer. Over here we powdercoat Late Model race car frames every year. The frame gets chucked on a big bonfire to burn the powdercoat off before the frame is sent to the blasters.

Cheers
HG

 

Excellent info Goon!

Thanks