runs ok, could be better, I'll try to keep it short

I get oil moistness coming from the head gasket on the both sides of the motor - this may or may not lead to the following symptom

I've dipped the carbs in old school carb cleaner for 2 days at a time 3 different times and it runs better every time.

at one point RickOmatic mentioned a way to test the flow rate of the different carb circuits to check each ones' clenliness but it was way too involved for me - i think. I just remembering reading it and being overwhelemed.

the symptom: I need to leave the choke on the slightest slightest tiniest bit for the bike to run perfect, abosultely necessary right after it's warmed up. After a few miles I could shut it completely off and other times need to put it back on, again, that tiniest slightest bit (looking at the actual enrichment plungers).
valve shims have been done. I just keep it like this thinking I'll get to it next winter by removing the head, doing the valves and re-doing the gasket obviously

figured today might be a good day to ask since the season is here and I can't get off the site!

inside, I lean towards the head gasket since it's not every time I stop at a red light. and that if something was clogged, it would be a constant symptom. if there's a chance it's still plaque in the carbs arteries, I'll dip them again for 2 more days...

 

Keep dipping the carbs and it really won't run right.

Something is still not right in the carbs-- you probably need throttle shaft seals. (The things you're ruining by dipping the carbs.) If you don't already you soon will if you keep dipping them.

Some oil seepage has nothing to do with your problem.

Run a compression test if you're worried about the head gasket; if you mean valve cover gasket then don't worry about it period (in terms of this issue, anyway.)

You have a caburetor issue. There is only one way to fix it, and "dipping" isn't it. And you already know the answer.

 

Thanks fitz

shaft seals are new, no rubber or plastic parts left in carbs when dipped. not valve cover, head gasket

did compression test, was on the low side without the drop of oil, 120's and 130's with the drop of oil

 

Sorry, you were talking about repeatedly dipping the carbs, and they shouldn't be dipped with throttle shaft seals in them. Since breaking them down far enough to get at the throttle shaft seals is a complex process, I assumed if you were " repeat dipping" them they had the seals still in.

If you know your actual HEAD gasket is leaking; then by all means, replace it.

What float-adjustment method are you using?

 

no sweat fitz! clear tube method is the only method I've ever used, joined this site the day I bought the bike 3 years ago.

rode the bike for about 2 hours last night, let me try to explain better. by the way, it's more like 75% of the time I need the enrichment on that tiny bit. if it's not on, it gurgles, no matter what gear, in low to mid range, once the mains pick up, it's good. without the slight enrichment, it may rev in neutral but will fail under load, and if I'm already moving, it will take a while to run right (mains kick in) and gurgle until then. I'm sure this is the most accurate explanation of the symptom

even though it seems like the carbs, since moving the enrichment plungers changes the symptom or makes it go away, it's obvious its the carbs right? But, what if, the slightly bad head gasket is changing the vacume amongst the carb rack therefore throwing the sync out - thats basically where I was going with that theory.

anyway, this is a real question I have, I know most won't agree with it: is running with the enrichment slightly activated bad (pretend the idle wasn't slightly high when this is true)? the bike honestly runs like a brand new motorcycle when it is, and I Love it.

 

I wonder if pin holes in my diaphram could cause this also, I doubt it but a post by another member has got me thinkin...