Runs when idling, but turns over when giving gas.

94 seca.
Just bought it 4 days ago and put 50 miles on it already. I noticed though that it idles very low at around 800-900 rpm. From a stop, I had to get the RPMs to about 2k before letting go of the cluth. I noticed if the RPMs are below 2k, it doesn't seem to smoothly get the gas feed when turning the throttle. I have to turn the throttle quite a bit, then it shoots to 2k rpm, then the throttle response is very smooth.

I found the idle adjustment screw and messed around with it to have the idle be around 1200-1500 rpm. I think I over turned it though cause a few minutes later, it would shoot up when at a red light to over 2k when in neutral. I pulled over and lowered it. Got home fine, and did some costmetic work to it. I then turned it on again, put the choke at half for about 30 secs before putting the choke off. It idled fine at about 1200, then when I gave it gas, the engine turned over. I tried a few more times and same result.

I lowered the idle screw (turning counter clockwise), since I thought that I might have had it still to high. It seemed to sort of fix it. I was able to give it gas, but it still is very jumpy when it's below 2k rpm. The throttle is still not smooth at all for the first half turn it seems.

How would changing the idle screw affect the engine so it would turn over when giving it gas? Is it pumping too much gas into the carbs or something?

I'm not mechanical at all so the littlest things will have me scratching my head!

 

I'm kinda curious to know the same thing. I've had similar probs when fine tuning. You gotta hit these bikes G-Spot to get it perfect.. its frustrating.
My only suggestion currently would be to make sure she's fully warmed up, like with a short ride, let her idle and lower the screw while shes still runnin to set her at 1100-1200.
-SLKid

 

What do you mean when you say 'engine turn over'?
Normally, that means the motor is turning the crank, as in when you hit the starter, the engine turns over.

The idle should be ~ 1050 RPM.
And it should be set when fully warm.

Sounds to me like you are ready to crack into your first carb cleaning, and then full sync and colortune.

At the front of your carbs, where your carbs meet the intake manifolds- there is a small screw on the top in a hole.
If that hole has a plug in it - your carbs have not been tuned since factory!

Otherwise, that is the pilot mixture screw.
That, coupled with a sync, will get you running right. That is assuming your carbs are not gummed up.

I would try to sync it first thing. If that doesn't clear it up, check the colortune. If still not running right, time to pull the carbs.

 

what do you mean by colortune?

 

colortune is a sparkplug made by gunson with a glass window that lets you see the combustion in the cylinder. faster and more accurate than any other mixture tuning procedure. they can be had for $55 or more new. I got mine used for $10!