SECA Atari cancel switch?

This evening I finally got a chance to rebuild the petcock. I got lucky and the seat was in fine shape, no corrosion or buildup at all!

Since that job only took ~20 minutes, I figured I'd do a little trouble shooting on the atari. I haven't taken care of the battery warning sensor conversion, and I get the constant flashing light as a result. That part I'm OK with, but pushing the cancel button has no effect. I thought I'd take the switch apart and clean the contacts. Well, come to find out it is a magnetic switch. Oh, and there are a couple tiny little steel balls and spring that you DO NOT want to drop on the ground!!! Anyway, I got it all apart and tested. I have continuity across the leads until I push the switch, when the contact is broken. Both push buttons are the same, so I'm assuming that's correct.
My question is where do I go from here? I'm going to find or build a small voltage regulator to go from 12V at the battery to <5V for the sensor, but until then I'd like to be able to at least turn the light off. Any ideas?

 

The Battery Sensor.

Run a Wire from the TAIL-LIGHT Power Wire to the Battery Sensor Wire adding a 2.5K Ohm Resistor.

When the Ignition is turned ON ... the Safety Inventory Sequence will read the Input supplied to the Sensor Wire from the Tail Light Wire resister-added jumper and the annoying WARNING ...
WARNING ...
F-L-A-S-H-I-N-G *** ___***___***
Red Light, ... will go Out and stay off.

 

Thanks Rick!
Next question: does the computer ignore the cancel button for that sensor, or do I need to keep looking for the cause of it not working to turn the light off?

In other words, should the cancel button work for any/all sensor failures?

I'll have to look in my soldering box, I might have a 2.5K already.

 

take the bulb out

 

When the Computer sequences to check the Battery, ... there will be a reading that satisfies the check.

If you have Bulbs out or any of the other items on the sequence not passing muster, ... the light stays on.

Be sure you get the Tail Light and NOT the Brake light.
You want the voltage there when you turn on the bike.

 

you push the cancel button twice.... lol, you just put yourself through all that trouble..

 

Schooter, the problem is pushing the button doesn't always work the way it's supposed to.
I did some more troubleshooting today. and it seems the switch is mostly just intermittent. I'm guessing the magnet is probably losing it's magnetism. It was maybe 25% effective today.

Robin (member "gitbox") was kind enough to not only loan me his YICS tool, colortune and motion pro synch tool, but he drove an hour to deliver it all to me this afternoon! We spent a while tinkering, and went from a nice even idle to only running on a couple cylinders to no fire whatsoever, so it was a bit frustrating.
He had dropped his wife at the mall just up the road, and needed to head back home at that point. We pretty much decided that the 106 degree heat index was just too damn much to be outside, so I retreated to the A/C inside.
Went back a while later and figured out that I wasn't getting any fuel. Got that squared away and she's running again. Got the balance down really nice, but using the colortune was just not working. I'll have to do a little more research and see if I'm using it wrong or something. I went old school and tuned it by ear for now.
During all that I played with the atari cancel switch and like I say it was only working maybe 25% of the time.
Decided to give it a day and start on it tomorrow after work if it's less than 95 degrees. Any hotter and the bike can sit!

 

It's nice to get-on ...
Turn-on the key ...
Start the Bike ...
Let the Bike sequence ... and ...
NOT need to push the button at all.

 

Agreed Rick, that's what I'm shooting for.
Anyone have a good link for a video of the colortune as the mixture is being adjusted. Doing a little youtube search but not having good luck for some reason.

 

ah, well I did the easy thing... just took off my atari..

 

Under ideal conditions the Colortune Plug will become a nice Blue indicating that you have a Mixture that is superb for letting the Bike IDLE.

If you Engine is in good shape and the Pilot Mixture Screw metering Air and Fuel combining them for an adjustable Pilot Mixture, ... the Colortune will show you a "Spot" where the Blue begins ... remains ... and fades-out as the Mixture gets more Rich.

The sequence looks like this:
Black
Black
Flashes of ignition
Yellow
Orange
BLUE
BLUE
BLUE
BLUE
Red
Red
Misfire

Go "Through the Blue"
Set-up at "The Back-side" of the Blue, ... Not its first appearance.

Upon arriving at this set-up, ... you will be very close to where the Bike will be Fine Tuned.

Further Fine Tuning will be done by actually monitoring the Spark Plugs INDIVIDUALLY and making minute (My-noot) adjustments to the Mixture to get Dialed-IN.

 

Thanks Rick. If I'm following you: top of your list is rich (as well as the mixture screw turned out) and bottom of your list is lean (mixture screw turned in)?
Also, "through the blue" means closer to orange/rich than red/lean correct? I've always tried to err on the rich side for the cooling effects, especially on air cooled engines.

 

Yes.
The top of the list is Closed and then the results as you turn the Screw OUT.

You need them all in the Blue to get a nice Idle.
You need some extra Richness to Fuel the short duration of fresh air that precedes the Main Jet Supply to sustain combustions and get smooth accelerations.

Too little and you hesitate or backfire.
Too much and you bog it out.

 

8O
U sure? Now I'm confused :?
Top of the list is black, which means rich aka screw open, right? So the results further down mean turning in the screw, right?
Pls tell me I'm right or I'll have to kick myself in the butt! This shit is getting more confusing by the day, lol

 

The top of the list is the Screw all the way down.
Then, we turn the screw to the LEFT (UP) and things start to happen.
Then Blue happens, ... (if your lucky)
and
so
on

Nothing happens with the Screw Closed.
Black
You lucky to see the spark'

 

OK, so just to be clear black is lean, red is rich???
I don't own a colortune, but from all the reading I've been doing I always understood you want to tune just slightly leaner than orange which is (again from my understanding) on the "lean side of rich"?
Man oh man, a few more posts and my head will litterally start turning 'round and 'round.

 

Black would technically be lean, ... yes.
No fuel.
Off.
Closed before opening.
Night before day.

 

OK, now I'm confused to!
Let's try it this way: The mixture screw adjusts fuel flow, NOT air flow correct?
I know that with some carbs the idle mixture screw adjusts air flow, but I don't think these Hitachi's are that way. Especially with the jet in the bowl that allows fuel up through this area.

Assuming that's true, then all the way down/in would be no fuel flow. Back it out a bit you have a lean condition. Keep backing it out and you'll go from lean thru good to rich.

Which means....one of us is backasswards.

 

No.
The "Technical" name for the Pilot Screw is Pilot AIR Screw.
The AIR Passage is married to the Pilot FUEL Passage.
The more AIR allowed to "Flow"
The more FUEL it draws-up from the FUEL source to accompany it.
A "Mixture" occurs.
The Quantity of FUEL allowed to accompany the AIR is determined by the SIZE of the Pilot FUEL Jet.

When the Screw is Bottomed ... the supply is off.
As the Screw is turned OUT ... the AIR Flows and Siphons Fuel from the Pilot Fuel Jet's Passage.

As the Screw is Turned further OUT ... the Pilot Screw opens its Metering end allowing MORE AIR~Fuel to Enter.

Eventually, the Metering end is Fully Open and the Mixture is at it Richest Level --> as determined by the SIZE of the Pilot FUEL Jet.

The ORIFICE Size if the Pilot FUEL Jet determines the Value of the FUEL supplied to the AIR being drawn-into the Engine.

 

OK. So (and I'm really not trying to be difficult) by that description the farther out the screw is turned the richer the mixture. Which leads back to the original confusion: in your description copied below, the top of this list is the screw turned all the way in, and the bottom is too far out/max fuel?


"The sequence looks like this:
Black
Black
Flashes of ignition
Yellow
Orange
BLUE
BLUE
BLUE
BLUE
Red
Red
Misfire

Go "Through the Blue"
Set-up at "The Back-side" of the Blue, ... Not its first appearance."

Maybe I just need to go to bed. At this point my head hurts from trying to re-re-rethink this.

 

So, back to the original atari issue: Took the bike out for my first actual ride this evening. 30 miles. The "warning control" switch most definitely has an issue. Randomly turns the light off AND on. At least until the bulb burned out that is. I'll need to get back in there and replace some backlighting bulbs too, since there's no lights for the tach side. Minor issues, and it'll be fixed more permanently this weekend when I get the battery sensor bypass fixed. Anyone have a switch they'd be willing to part with?

BTW, the bike ran great with the small exception of right when you take off from a light. It's got a little hiccup between about 1500-2k rpms. Sounds/feels like one cylinder is not pulling it's weight, so I'm guessing it's just some fine tuning on the pilot mixtures.

 

If you think your Mixture to one hole isn't right ... you should be able to pull the Plugs and see which one isn't hitting.

 

Yup, but I want $15 for it. What shape is your "living-dead" switch in? I've taken these switches apart and refurbished them, you might do the same. You could also check with Chacal for a used replacement.

 

I took mine apart this past weekend. Everything looks good, but I think the magnet is losing it's magnetism. All I really need is the center section with the magnet glued inside it, but I'm guessing that's not available. How did you refurb yours, I might try that before getting a different one?

 

Well, I used the colortune this evening, and I think I figured it out. Bike's idling good. I've got a ride lined up tomorrow with some buddies from base. Probably gonna do a run up to Lancaster, PA. I got my saddlebags fitted this evening, but pics will have to wait until I get back tomorrow since I can't find my card reader.

 

Just wanted to finalize the warning control switch issue. The magnet was just too far away from the electrical portion of the switch. I used a little ingenuity and a small C clamp to press the magnet a little deeper in the the hole it's in and switch works flawlessly now. I'll try to get some pics uploaded to my gallery to point it out.