So ive got my clutch apart.

So ive got the bike in peices at the moment. I'm spending some time on inspecting everything and figuring out what needs replaced/cleaned/adjusted etc.

Carbs are already torn apart, awaiting a few peices.
Swapped in a working spare kill/start switch by the grip.

Now im taking a peak at the clutch.

After having someone ride my bike they confirmed what i was thinking. The clutch wasnt fully engaging until it was just about all the way out. We played with the linkage but couldnt get it right.

The clutch also pulls very easily, atleast compared to their bikes.

So ive pulled it apart to inspect it and heres where im at.

As far as i can tell, the clutch and friction plates have been replaced, but nothing else was really even inspected. I dont neccesarily know what the clutch plates should look like.


The pressure plate has a couple nicks, only one is concerning. The picture doesnt really show it well. about the size of a bb and maybe 1mm deep. needs replaced i guess.


Not really sure what i should be looking for on the friction plates. They look fine to me. Anything special i should be looking for?



This is what makes me think the PO changed the clutch and plain plates, without inspecting anything else. These look absolutely fine. No real "etched memories" from sitting on each other.

that, and



the hub has some nasty dings from one of the plates you should be able to kind of see one of them here. Another thing ill have to replace.


Anything else i should be checking while im in here? the throwout bearing seems fine, and i might as well polish the plain plates before i get everything to put it all back together, theyre not COMPLETELY clean.

 

and what exactly can i polish the basket fingers with? Ive never heard of a polishing stone.

 

all you can do for the friction plates is measure them, better yet just get new ones if the budget allows, or if they measure good get new springs
and be happy for a lot of miles.
if your clutch action was ok before, no grabbing or jerking, nice smooth pull, don't worry about a stone to get rid of those marks

 

What are the clutch springs like? I'd install new springs, bolts and washers. I bet the PO reused them and the springs will weaken and cause problems.

 

after looking at them im assuming the amount of travel before engaging, and the ease of pulling the clutch lever is just the springs.

When i pulled the cover off i also noticed aftermarket bolts and washers just like out of fitz's writeup.



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I just grabbed my micrometer (I think thats what its called) and measured all the discs and the springs. All discs are in good shape, and sure enough, the springs are below spec.

I thought of measuring em, but forgot i had the tool, and access to the specs. thanks.

 

So i just looked at the exploded view of the clutch assembly and noticed something.... what does the boss spring look like? Because im not seeing one.....

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While im at it, how can i tell the difference in the special friction plate? If the PO is forgetting shit like a boss spring, theres a possibility these are all the same size.

 

OK; the ubiquitous "Clutch Boss Spring:"

The clutch boss spring itself looks like a large diameter, thin, "wave" washer, and it sits in the ID of a "special" friction plate. The special friction plate has a larger ID than the others.

It looks to me like someone installed a new, aftermarket clutch (and didn't replace the springs, based on your findings.) SOME aftermarket clutches simply 'ignore' the clutch boss spring's existence and supply a set of identical friction plates.

Does it matter? I honestly don't know. The bigger bikes, 650s and up, do NOT have asymmetrical, "tabbed" plain plates; nor do they have a clutch boss spring. Just a straight, plain, clutch. We know the "tabbed" plain plates are like that because Yamaha was trying to quell the typical 550 clutch rattle; what the exact purpose of the clutch boss spring is remains a bit of a mystery. Even more mysterious is the fact that the original design (XJ400/500, 4-cylinders, not USA market) had TWO clutch boss springs as indicated in the diagram (before I corrected it.) By the time the design morphed into the 550, it only had one.

If I were you, I'd attend to the hub, basket and pressure plate as necessary; and reassemble with the plates you have and see how it works. Just be sure you watch the orientation of the tabs on the plain plates and the dot on the pressure plate when it goes back together. I honestly don't know how necessary or effective the clutch boss spring IS; let's find out. Feel like being a Guinea Pig?

RE: Sharpening stones: Here's an example; http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... YQ8wIwBA#p The one I have is like 1" X 2" X 1/2" and is about a zillion years old; it's been in my toolbox forever.

 

Here you go: In this pic, the Clutch Boss Spring is the large ring-like piece on the left, with the springs in the middle:

 

is the boss spring flat and same thickness as the friction plates? Or is it actually a wavy springlike disc?

Because with the way my clutch was engaging when the lever was all the way out, another peice of metal to put a little distance between a set of plates seems like it would add a bit more bite for the clutch, along with new springs too of course.

But if its pretty much a washer that just fits into a plate, then i dont really see the purpose, and might as well give it a shot with just new springs. Its been fine thus far.

Then again, if im buying a new hub, and pressure plate, dunno if i wanna risk, somehow, any damage that might happen.

 

It's wavy and "springlike." But I still don't think it does much, if anything.