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Starter makes strange noise?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by backlash1818, Feb 8, 2012.

  1. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    When My bike has been running for a while and is fairly warm, I'll stop somewhere, do something and go to start the bike again.

    When I hit the start button I get this strange grind noise or something....Works fine as long as the bike isn't warm.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. skyhawk

    skyhawk Member

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    Maybe it needs fresh grease. I just did mine at 9850 miles and it was all dried out. It's probably time to check the brushes anyway. You'll see, the back end will be caked with brush dust!
     
  3. LVSteve2011

    LVSteve2011 Member

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    Hi Backlash, another possibility is that you have a worn starter clutch. The starters used in most Jap bikes are of this design, they don't have what's commonly called a "Bendix". If you are running a synthetic oil, this can also cause the starter clutch to make noise.
     
  4. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    +1 with Steve, what oil you running & how old is it ?
     
  5. wrxg33k

    wrxg33k Member

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    Mine was doing the same. Pull the starter and do the maintenance in the manual and swap to Castrol GTX oil. Problem solved.
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Don't use GTX, use Castrol 4T for motorcycles.

    Even venerable old GTX has now crossed over to the "friction modified" darkside. I feel almost betrayed after 40+ years...
     
  7. backlash1818

    backlash1818 Member

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    Ok.....so I just ordered a brand spanking new starter clutch assembly from

    http://www.ronayers.com/

    I use synthetic oil btw. And since I live in florida where its friggin hot, I use 20w 50 weight....I forget what brand it is, but its the brand for older engines that protects against buildup or some such.

    I've changed the oil about.....7 times in the past 3 months...I've been a bit paranoid about the grinding noise getting metal into a vital place in my engine and killing it...This current change is about 2 weeks old.

    So since synthetic is a problem, what kind of oil should I get? CASTROL ACTIV 4T looks pretty good....but is it synthetic?

    So many oils to choose from.... >_<

    Btw, I'm re-painting my bike. Don't know how many people saw the original color (check my posting "cylinder not firing" near the end) But it was an ugly orange that was spray-painted on thick, with no clear coat, and no sanding to get trash out of it. I'll post some pictures of the process once i'm done.

    I'm also thinking since this starter clutch thing is going to require an engine pull, I'll go ahead and black my engine back out, with some extra touches....any suggestions for engine paint? I know that sumbitch gets hot!
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Overhaul the Starter.
    They're hard to kill.

    Disconnect the battery and remove the Starter to a comfortable work station.
    Clean and Lube the whole thing.

    After you get it on the bench ...

    Two long screws hold BOTH indexed ends to the main body.

    Remove the gear end and COMPLETELY clean and re-lube that end.
    You'll need to spread one Circlip to get the Planet Main Shaft out.
    Keep track of washers and spacers.
    Look on the ends of the shaft and inside the housing for thin Thrust Washers that like to stay stuck where they are.

    Keep everything in order as you disassemble the Planet end.
    Two small Planet Gears on opposed shafts.
    The Ring Gear and Main Shaft.
    Every Spacer and Thrust Washer.

    Clean the "Whole-works" of the "Business-end." All of it so nice and clean a Marine Drill Instructor would have the Company check-out yours as good example.

    Check for washers and thrust washers hiding on shafts and bearing ports.

    Clean the Electric end; too.

    Pull the Case away from the Motor -- slowly.
    There's NO slack in the wire connecting the Brushes to the External Power Post.
    Slip the Brushes off the Commutator.
    Look for a Thrust washer - inside the Case - surrounding the port for the case bearing bushing.

    With the starter exploded. Clean.
    Use straight Isopropyl Alcohol loaded into a sprayer that has the Stream or Spray option.
    ("Honey, did you see the Windex. I can't seem to find it.")

    Withdraw the Armature.
    Spray everything until its completely clean and what you are spraying ON is as clean as what is dripping OFF!

    Shoot the Commutator, Brushes, Brush Housing, Electrical Lead and the inside of the Electric end Case. Clean.

    Shoot WD-40 on the CLEAN windings and magnets.

    Lube the whole-works as you reassemble the Starter.

    Using Top Quality Synthetic Waterproof Grease:
    Everything and every surface on the Planet - Business End - gets lubed as it's reassembled.
    Shafts, shaft bushing ID's, washers, spacers, gears, pivots, bushings, etc.
    Grease everything. Either liberally -- for function, or smeared-on for both rotational forces on it ... or, to hold it from slipping as you reinsert bearing shafts into bushed port on the case.

    Spin the Planet Shaft after its re-clipped in and grease the rotating Planet Gears -- "On the Fly" ... as they rotate around the inside of the Ring Gear.

    Lightly smear washers and spacers on the Electric End ... but, don't allow the grease to contaminate electric connections and Commutator.

    Get a dab of grease into the port on the Electric end; and smear the end of the shaft which fits there.

    Now, the fun and games of getting the Brushes lifted onto the Commutator and everything lined-up and back together begin.

    It's like a Chinese Puzzle.

    Only ... "Made in Japan" !

    <><><><><><><><><>

    Engine Painting:

    When you get the Engine out, ... see if the Manifold Cap Screws and Exhaust Studs can be removed.
    Overhaul the Fasteners for Intake Manifolds and Exhaust.
    Replace ALL the Hardware with NEW -- Hardened or Stainless Fasteners.
    TREAT the Head and New Hdwe with Antiseize.

    With the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds stuffed with rubber balls ...
    Have the Plant -- "Media Blasted"

    Plastic Beads or Walnut Shell will remove grime and paint and leave you with attractive Bright Alloy.
    Other form of Media will apply various "Finishes" to the Aluminum.

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&clie ... 55&bih=635
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    THIS SOUNDS LIKE AUTOMOTIVE OIL. And if it IS, it could be your entire problem.

    You need motorcycle-specific oil. MOTORCYCLE specific, JASO-standard. Says "motorcycle" right on the bottle. It's that "protecting against buildup" thing in CAR oil that drives your starter clutch crazy.

    I would hate to see you pull the motor, and go through all the work of splitting the cases, only to discover your starter clutch is indeed fine, and you've just been using automotive oil all along.

    I would also take Rick's advice and service the starter before going through major surgery on the motor.
     

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