starter. solenoid

How do I know that my start solenoid is bad? If i bridge the gap between the two bolts on it with a screw driver it fires right up. does that mean its bad? the switch works just fine so what does that mean? is starting it with a screw driver like that horrible for the bike?

 

check to see if you get ~12V between the small wires on the solenoid when you hit the starter button. If you do, but it doesn't click, then the solenoid is bad.

 

oh good thinkin! thanks.

 

do you know where i can order one? I think I found one on bike bandit but idk if it was the right part.

 

Monkey, any solenoid from just about any 12V source will work. If you are of a mind, PM me. If your close enough, we could get together for a solenoid rebuild class.

 

wait you can rebuild these suckers?

 

We got guys in here ... that will glue together your shattered, stepped-on eyeglasses and give 'em back to you sayin' there as good as new.

That don't mean you should plan on reading Harry Potter with them!

I am not of the persuasion that rebuilds Solenoids.
I use them to prop-up the window a little-bit to let some fresh air in the garage.

 

There are times to say when Rick, I'll grant you that. I've re-burnished the solenoids on both my Seca and Maxim and they have worked just fine for several years more. In fact, I haven't killed one yet. That isn't to say that just any core is worth the effort, of course not. But this isn't a system critical part (you can get home with a garbage solenoid) so what is the harm in reusing a part to keep it from becoming more landfill? If one takes the time to do it right (and if anyone can, you would top the list Rick), a refurbished solenoid is not a difficult task.
Monkey: Yes, you can refurbish the old solenoid provided the winding coil has not been burned out and the contactor assembly inside hasn't been melted into a puddle of slag, both conditions are death-knells for the part. Another option is to grab a similar solenoid and solder your connector pig-tail to the donor unit (I've done this many times). You have a few options available but you should balance the time needed to fix it against the cost of a new solenoid ($40 at BikeBandit). If your like me, I enjoy resurrecting the "dead" to life. Something deeply engrained in me loves to rescue the things others write off as no longer useful (this also marks me as a packrat, a title I wear with some degree of pride) and, with a little TLC and sweat, restore function to it. I'd be more than happy to walk you through pulling your unit apart and cleaning up the contacts. But first, you need to test it to ensure that it is a candidate for salvage. Ohm out the coil (between the Blue and White/Red wires on the pigtail), you shouldn't see more than 3 or 4 ohms maximum. If you have continuity, your in business. All you need is a soldering iron, a set of points files, a 10mm wrench, and a #1 or #2 phillips head screw driver.
Does this sound like something you would care to take a swipe at?
For additional reading, hit the search button and pull up my write up on how to rebuild a solenoid. I wrote it last year fairly early for some fellow out in Estonia. If you have any questions, I'll swing through sometime this weekend.

 

Robert - the cost from my local Yamaha dealer for the solenoid was $21.

 

man I called mine and it was 60 bones
i just ordered one online for 30 something I think

 

It's the strangest thing. For some reason, my local Yamaha dealer is very competitive with prices.

 

I like ... I forget who the Member was that suggested it ... going to the Lawn Mower Supply Store and picking up one for the Lawn Tractor for about 15-Bucks.

I think they are smaller and you have to finagle the way it goes on the bike ... but, when you hit the START Button ... it closes the High-Amp Switch and the Engine goes ... Var-oom!

Robert:

I have one that I am going to look inside of and see what it was that made me replace it with a good one.

That's my Science Homework for next week. I'll comment on the findings.
Maybe it will be a candidate for resurrection!

 

I'm running a solenoid I purchased at a small engine repair shop. It is one made for a lawn mower/garden tractor with a Techumseh or Briggs & Straton engine. They seem to be better built than the stock Yamaha solenoids and are a hell of alot cheaper. There is screw holes in it for mounting and enough room on yur bike to install it with no problem.
If my other bikes solenoid gives me any problems, I will be using the same solenoid on it also.
I had originally used one from a Ford pickup, but it was way too big to mount properly, that's why I decided to look for a smaller one. I would imagine any place that services any kind of lawn equipment will most likely have them.
I've had mine on for over a year now and it works perfect. >PD<

 

Dandrewk,
I haven't a Yamaha dealer nearby and am rather independent so using them as a first option is not normal for me. Perhaps I'm missing out on something here. Thanks for the heads up. I will note that there are a few very good shops out in San Rafael (I do miss the Bay Area, just not the people) so you are in a good location. Wish I could say the same for here.
Rick,
I think you'll find that refurbishing your solenoid is a piece of cake, especially given your level of talent.
Painter,
12VDC solenoid from a lawn mower is as good as any other, great idea. Any idea what the maximum amperage rating is on that thing? As long as it will cover at least 15 amps (an amp over rated capacity of the battery but a good margin of safety), you should be good to go for years.
Grease,
If you have ordered a new solenoid, don't toss the old one. Give refurbishing it a shot. That way you'll have a spare on the shelf for the next time. If nothing else, the experience will help you understand how these solenoids work and what the innards look like. The offer of assistance still stands if you are of a mind.
Cheers!

 

I have had good luck with this place for online:

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/ ... fault.aspx

So far, quick shipping, and prices are very good.