Synch and float level

81 seca 750
I bet these have been answered before, but....
How do you set/check float levels and When you are synching carbs, does a clockwise turn of the screws close or open throttle plate?
thanks
John

 

uhhh-oops, slide, not plate...
proad

 

uhhh-oops, slide, not plate...
proad

 

John, may I suggest you hit the search function for fuel float level setting. As for the screw, I believe it opens the plate when you turn it clockwise.

 

thank you robert,
i finally found the search function--top o the page.
found the float level threads last night.
history: Bought bike few months ago--was missing-but ran -would top out at about 75 and not get close to red-line, had holes in exhaust(rusted out), forks leaked oil, front brakes--like flintstones-use feet!!
so far---# 4 plug wire was seperated from cap. now have good spark on all 4 cylinders, did compression check-140ish all across, have cleaned carbs, made a yics tool, have a mercury manometer, installed 4 to 1 exhaust, dyno-jet jet kit (stock intake-4 to 1 calls for 124 main). still soft on top and feels rich on bottom--wrong main?? Carbs had been into prior to me--screwdriver marks on mains and air/ful plugs gone.
after much reading here, have a few things to sort out, fuel supply(petcock and float levels), air/fuel mixture and synch.
thanks for the help
john

 

thank you robert,
i finally found the search function--top o the page.
found the float level threads last night.
history: Bought bike few months ago--was missing-but ran -would top out at about 75 and not get close to red-line, had holes in exhaust(rusted out), forks leaked oil, front brakes--like flintstones-use feet!!
so far---# 4 plug wire was seperated from cap. now have good spark on all 4 cylinders, did compression check-140ish all across, have cleaned carbs, made a yics tool, have a mercury manometer, installed 4 to 1 exhaust, dyno-jet jet kit (stock intake-4 to 1 calls for 124 main). still soft on top and feels rich on bottom--wrong main?? Carbs had been into prior to me--screwdriver marks on mains and air/ful plugs gone.
after much reading here, have a few things to sort out, fuel supply(petcock and float levels), air/fuel mixture and synch.
thanks for the help
john

 

Glad to hear your moving in the right direction. I'm no carburetor guru so I've no suggestions on your jetting needs, we've plenty of folks here that can supply good gouge on that. Use that search function for your jetting questions, they have been discussed before and a lot of great information was passed out.

 

Float level is best set with clear tubing. Of course you have to make sure the float bowl drian screws are free. Add a length of tubing to each nipple on the bowls and open the drain screws. Leave them open so you can check that the float needles are holding. A rise in level after awhile means a leaking needle. The correct level is 3 to 4 mm below the carb body. I'll try to add a pic but if it doesn't work I'll add it to my gallery. Don't have a way to resize pics.

 

In this pic the float level is a little low. On your rich at idle and soft at speed issue, the carbs must be colortuned or dyno set first anytime the carbs have been cleaned. Then sync and see how the top end goes. Best way to check that is to do a plug chop at wide open throttle. Just reach over after opening it up and hit the kill switch. Then pull the plugs roadside and read. White is lean and black is rich. Lean means go up a jet size or place washers on the jet needle to raise it. Rich means go down a jet size or change to a K&N filter to increase air flow.