Tips wanted

Hi all

Need some input.

First, how do I remove the lower glide surface for the steering stem bearings? Any tips on tools that works? I've tried a sharp screwdriver and a hammer, but I can't get a good enough angle to make it work..


Have anyone change the swingarm bushings for the needle bearing kit?
how do you place the bearings in the swingarm? (placement wise, there is four bearings)

I haven't open and looked at the clutch yet, but what sort of damage should I look for when opening it up? I noticed the clutch was really heavy and not releasing properly when putting in to gear. (I'm hoping it's because it has been sitting for a while)

And does anyone have a smart tip for removing the clearcoat from the fork legs? (planning to polish them)


And, how thick are the pads in the drum breaks when new?
No sign of de-lamination but they look thin to me.

 

bearing race, i took it to the grinder and was going to grind flats on it to twist with a wrench but before i was done it came loose. probably from the heat.
the clutch basket might have groves on it from the tabs on the friction plates, Fitz has a how-to somewhere.
the strongest paint stripper you can find for the clear coat.

 

Airplane stripper for the clearcoat. BE CAREFUL! That stuff is NASTY....

 

Or brake fluid works too, that stuff takes about anything off!

If in doubt always replace the brake shoes, they're cheap, life is not

 

I got a steering race off by slicing a groove in it and hitting with a chisel - don't cut all the way thru or you will nick the steering "spindle"

Head gasket remover will also strip paint.

 

I soda blasted off the clearcoat on my engine. To get the lower race off, I used a large flat blade screwdriver and tapped the screwdriver with a hammer, working my way around the race, until the screwdriver would fit under the race. Then I slowly pried it up, working my way around.

 

Not on original Yamaha clearcoat it doesn't. Bounces right off.

 

You learn something new every day 8O If so, that's the first metal finish apart from powdercoat I've come across that a dose of DOT4 won't shift... and even powdercoat is "affected" by it. What clearcoat did they use?

I want some!

 

here's the second
http://www.kgcoatings.com/protective-co ... -gun-kote/

 

Today, Dan learned 2 things... Two

 

Dan will be a new Wizard in about a week ! :lol:

 

It had to be good, whatever it was. Believe me, you don't want it.

It resists everything except Mother Nature; and the grey mottled corrosion you so often see on these bikes is UNDER it. '80s Jap car cast wheels too.

But trust me, brake fluid can get all over it and all you have to do is wipe it off, no harm done. Even when it's 30 years old.

 

Fair point now I think of it, it'd be much easier to respray parts if & when a brake fluid spillage occured than to respray after 3 years*#* and have to remove something that hard to shift before doing so...

So blasting/elbow greasing is the only way to remove it, or are there chemicals that do work?


(*#*that, IIRC, was the amount of use you got from the ignition cover in another thread before the finish started to go wasn't it Fitz?)

 

I recently stripped 2 sets of forks with "Head Gasket Remover" from NAPA.
You're going to have different product brands in the UK
The other one is called "Aircraft Remover" They are both safe to use on Aluminium. You could even try furniture paint stripper and a brush.

 

Aircraft remover for stripping the clear coat on the fork lowers

I used a cutoff wheel and a dremel to slice a groove in the lower race, and then right before it was through I stuck a chisel in the gap and gave it a good smack and it popped right off.

New rear shoes can be had for a reasonable amount - check out powersportsupersports. EBC shoes for ~20$

 

I've seen a few posts about this "aircraft remover" & often wonder when I see it, does it even shift Airbus or just Boeing? 8O

We get probably not half of the stuff you can get in the US, been trying to get liquid electrical tape for ages & it ain't happening

Anyway, which bearing race are we talking about removing here (before I derail too far ), inner or outer? The ones in the frame can be removed by running a ring of MIG weld around the bearing surface if they're really stuck, this shrinks the race slightly when it cools & often they just drop out. As for the one on the fork, think that's been more than covered by previous posts

 

Hi all, thanks for the tips!

I got me some CRC Gasket Remover (the only one that wasn't marketed as ECO-friendly, all the other available paint strippers was that and only took care of house paint, 1k paints and the likes)
Hopefully that will take care of the clear coat. Will try it tomorrow.
And yeah, it's difficult to find the good chemicals here in the EU, everything is ECO/Green-products in the stores, The only way to get the better stuff is to know someone in the heavy service/manufacturing-industries that can fill a bottle on the side.

I'll probably order some pads, but I hate to order new ones and find out the new ones are equally as thin
(the pads on mine is ca 3mm thick, how thick are they when almost new?)

Yes, it's the bearing racer in the frame. the fork parts is easy since the fork stem fits in the freezer.
I'll probably take the dremel out and start cutting it carefully. Seams like the easiest way for me at the moment.



And 750E-II_29Rbloke, I found a retailer that has the Liquid tape in Sweden. It's market as Liquid Neoprene.
Here is the Swedish retailer, (Only in Swedish though):
http://www.bataccenten.se/db/db.pl?k1=J&artnr=051850&template_file=db_vara.html

 

Cool thanks, I used this service http://www.microsofttranslator.com/bv.a ... _vara.html to translate it & may try to see if they will ship here.

Thanks Agreed on the getting decent chemicals, used to be able to dip stuff in sulphuric acid to remove corrosion or into a hot trichloroethene (trike) bath to degrease when I worked in the right place

 

I managed to remove the bearing race in the frame by warming with a blow torch and belting a large flat bladed srewdriver with a 2lb club hammer. the additional bit of weight in the hammer really helps... Trust Me!

 

No worries, I guess they will have no troubles sending it to you, but if they do, I'll order it to me and then send it over to you