total handle bar reconstruction

hey guys... I was thinking and am changing my bars. I have the 1982 seca 750 with all the goodies and the not so responsive cable operated master cylinder. I want to chang the perches out to regular or single clamp, motor cross style. add hydro master cylinder to drop the cable op.
and change out electrical controls to somthing small and simple. ANy thought would be good. i have purchased new bars and would like to drop mirrors on th underside (see zero samurai choppers) also would like to change out to steel brakelines and drop th anti dive. peace

 

a cable-operated master cylinder? I thought they all had fluid-operated master cylinders, in which case the cylinder should be part of the clamp that has the brake lever on it. That whole thing should slide onto your handlebar, and all you have to do is tighten the two small bolts and that's done. Then hook up the rest of the hydraulic lines and blocks.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Dave Fox

 

Hogfiddles- - you're wrong
The '81 to '83 Seca 750 has a cable operated master cyl behind the headlight and plastic bar covers for that smooth look.

Bossnoss, I've heard the R6 master is a great upgrade. You could get handlebar pods from an old enduro so you would have less buttons and a tighter profile. Want to go super clean? Move all swiches to a panel under your tank lip. Remove gauges. Have only a bicycle digital speedo.

 

I’m ¾ finished with the handlebar/master cylinder stainless hose conversion.
So far it’s an easy DIY, just a LOT of visits to my Yamaha store (more about this later).

I bought a master cylinder from a motorcycle recycler. It’s off of a 1984 to 1993 Vmax, FJ, FZ, etc
http://mrmotorcycledfw.com/

Thanks to mrmotorcycle he new exactly what I have (master cylinder under the headlight).
This is the one I’m using,
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamah ... 01-00.html

Hindsight is always 20/20.
I could have ordered the stainless kit from chacal and 1 straight banjo, 1 17” hose and 1 adapter.
These part aren’t here so don’t quote me on the 17” hose, it may be to short.

A 1 to 2 splitter came with the new/old master cylinder. SSOO
I didn’t know I could get an adapter from the OEM splitter to stainless…SO I ordered ALL banjo’s and hoses from my local Yamaha shop THEN took most of it back because if you’re replacing a 17” OEM hose you DO NOT order a 17” stainless and 2 banjo’s it will be TOO LONG!! Etc.etc.

You’re not going to use the anti-dive but if you change your mind.
After a little trial and error I have found that 2 straight bango’s and a 5’ hose WORK.

Last but not least, the brake light should be easy.
Cut off the old switch, splice on new electrical connectors, should be good.

Note: All this stainless is from Goodridge.

ab

 

sweet job thanks!! Im thinking about ditching mt anti dive just to clean up my forks a bit. and that master looks good ill check it out...
how much did you spend? If you dont mind me asking?

 

Thanks its been fun but NOT nearly as much fun as rebuilding those calipers, THEY were major corroded.
NOTE TO SELF: Go change the brake fluid in EVERTHING.


The master cylinder was $75.00 used.
I found them on line for $87 to $99 + shipping.
The brake light switch on the used one doesn’t work BUT a new one wouldn’t have had one so $19.99 at my local shop.
Like I posted earlier hind sight is 20/20 I’ve taken so much of the stainless back it’s hard to tell how much I’ve spent. BUT the first purchase ($185.00) from my local shop was a little cheaper than on line.

So call it $250.00 to $300.00 + the brake switch, brake fluid, hack saw blade to cut the old lever off of the right handlebar control and paint (I have the hack saw & paint).

With a little more research hopefully you’ll beat this $.
That male to male adapter is $11.00 and would have saved me at least a couple of trips AND I would be finished by now.

LUCK
ab

 

Bossnoss, I belive you will need diferent forks to get rid of the antidive. You can't just pull them out, because they connect onto some orifices on the shaft it self which provide the extar pressure when braking. I would just get a set of Maxim forks that has dual rotors and go from there, or just rebuild the whole thing.

My brake upgrade did not cost nearly as much as Albran's between my custom ss hoses and my used Brembo Master Cyl. I spent about $150 tops, fluid and banjo bolts included.

 

I thought I was getting a DEAL on that $75 Master cyl./brake switch BUT the switch is bad SO $19.99.

How did you hook up your brake light?

ab

 

My switch was included with my master cylinder. All I had to do was hook it up to where the stock one was hooked onto. I don't know about your lever, but it should be a straight up swap if the part is OEM.