Valve clearance adjustment or not?

Well I'm replacing my valve cover gasket and bolt doughnuts and checked my valve clearance, 550 Maxim
my measurements are:
Intake #1-.005 #2-.004 #3-.005 #4-.004
Exhaust #1-.006 #2-.007 #3-.006 #4-.005
The spec on the intakes are .004-.006
The spec on the exhaust is .006-.008
All clearances are in spec except #4 on the exhaust is .001 under.
Should I replace the shim on it even though its only .001 off? should I replace all the shims to get them all on the high end of the clearance?
Im thinking not to worry about it right now and just check em again next season. Thanx

 

If your exhausts were in spec they would be between .006-.008 all are under spec and should be changed to the next thinner shims. Valves being to tight could burn.

MN

 

#4 exhaust needs to be attended to don't put it off. I hope your chart is backwards or they'd all be off..

You can't "replace all the shims" if they're in spec. The shims come in .05mm increments, the spec range is .05mm. There is only one shim for any given valve that will put it in spec.

Remember too, the "true" specs are metric; .005" is actually .127mm; spec is .16mm-.20mm so that is a tight valve. Don't put it off or you'll have a burnt valve.

 

I had to double check my post and make some corrections. My manual does say cold: intake .004-.006 and exhaust .006-.008
so #4 exhaust is out of spec, and should be adjusted.

 

yes #4 too tight.

MN

 

Well I pulled my #4 exhaust shim and its a 265 to get me where i need to be I would install a 260, I think that would put me at around .177 mm

 

which, considering spec to be .16mm-.20mm is right where it should be.

Your manual says .11mm-.15mm and .16mm-.20mm; the imperial (American) specs are RAW equivalents. If you plan to keep this bike, invest $7 in a METRIC feeler gauge; it makes the whole thing easier and more precise.

Let's see what they look like at 20K miles.

I keep a log book (of all my bikes, always have) it makes the process much easier.

Now check your rear brake: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

 

Thanx Bigfits, I appreciate all your input I did check the rear brakes when I replaced my chain, they looked pretty good, no separation or glazing, nice and even and not much wear, also went and checked all the cotter pins after reading that post about the guys nut falling off and his brake rod twisting up 8O

 

Good deal. Now go look at the date codes on your tires.

When you replaced your chain, you did replace both sprockets too, right?
Otherwise the new chain will wear right out too...

 

Yes both front and rear sprockets, the rear tire is only a year old, the front is balder than a babies bottom.